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Posted: 3/22/2014 5:18:46 PM EDT
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Okay guys, please forgive if this has been covered. I did search and didn't come up with anything although I honestly would be shocked if it hasn't been covered. Anyway...
I have a RAT build I'm doing with a blemish lower and mix matched parts or various vintage. I was thinking about Kryloning the whole thing in some camo pattern. Just wanted some advice. - What's the best way to do it? In pieces or assembled with the dust cover closed, BCG removed, something plugging the barrel? - Best way to prep it for paint? - Anything in particular to watch out for? - Lastly, what do you use to remove it if it doesn't come out right? Haven't ruled out Duracoat either but I have some pieces parts that are already Kryloned so I'm considering just going that route. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. |
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Rustoleum is tougher than Krylon. Especially when you look at their Appliance epoxy sprays.
Wipe it down with laquer thinner and do light coats with overnight drytimes If you screw it up use cheap autozone brakeparts cleaner to strip it off. Krylon will fall right off, rustoleum may beed a brass brush |
| I've sprayed my truck, my rifle, and a shotgun in krylon and its always held up great. Just make sure you do it in decently warm temperature with low humidity. Give it a brushing with a scotchbrite pad and wipe it down the rifle with rubbing alcohol and spray away |
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I've sprayed my truck, my rifle, and a shotgun in krylon and its always held up great. Just make sure you do it in decently warm temperature with low humidity. Give it a brushing with a scotchbrite pad and wipe it down the rifle with rubbing alcohol and spray away I make the distinction because I have used both in engine compartments of my old Fords. The Krylon dries faster, even in the air making a textured surface that holds dirt pretty bad It will also peel right off if you get brake fluid on it. The Rustoleum seems to dry harder because it takes longer. Holds it's sheen better as well. I saw some shop using it on a Boss 302 restoration so when I did my Torino I tried it and found it to be superior -as much as spray paint goes |
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I leave everything in place tape off sights, close dust cover, and stuff muzzle with paper then paint away. I do a simple wipe down if need be, but usually dont. Also once your done let it dry in the sun for a few days the shoot it and enjoy. 
ETA:Acetone/wire brush is my remover What he said but I spray it down with brake cleaner first. Then paint away... |
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I prefer spray painting my guns because it is easy, cheap and fast. Personally I don't want my AR/AK type rifles to look all pretty with 100+ dollar finishes. These guns get beat up, so I go with spray paint. Some people take their time with metal prep, but honestly I don't really bother.
I tape off any areas I don't want painted, close the dust cover, wipe down the metal with a rag to remove any oil, and spray. I do light coats and in between coats I use a heat gun on low to help with the curing process. I use either the Rustoleum or Krylon Camo series and have had good luck with both. It has held up surprisingly well. If you want it to be more durable, finish with a clear coat. Do 2 very light coats, you have to go easy with the clear because it will get shiny if you put to much on. |
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I dont get the Krylon paint jobs. Just leave it as is or do it right. Or wrap it in duct tape  I dunno, just considering it since this is a RAT build with left over and scrounged parts. Looking at the Rattle can thread in the refinising forum some of those guys came up with some great finished products. |
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Paint always ends up getting sticky on my rifles. I degrease and let it cure for a few days, but it always turns into a mess after a month or so. I don't even use solvents or anything.
After awhile, I just take acetone and get it off, of scrub it in the sink with a Scotch brite pad and dish soap. Always looks like shit, but that's better than solid black.
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Quoted:
Paint always ends up getting sticky on my rifles. I degrease and let it cure for a few days, but it always turns into a mess after a month or so. I don't even use solvents or anything. After awhile, I just take acetone and get it off, of scrub it in the sink with a Scotch brite pad and dish soap. Always looks like shit, but that's better than solid black. Krylon clear matte acrylic spray will solve your problem. |
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There are better paints out there than Krylon.
One is Aervoe. These are specifically non-reflective finish and seems a little tougher than Krylon. Second if going to a "art" store that has higher end spray paints. One high rated paint is White. Color selections it much greater (unless you want earth tones). You can go all out and go to a professional paint store. They can mix very specific colors and put it in "rattle cans" for you (FOR A FEW DOLLARS MORE). You can spend a lot of money on this project and it will go to hell real fast with out the proper surface preparation. You MUST clean all the oils off first. You can use dry cleaning fluid (good luck finding that) or ACETONE (that you can find at Wally Mart). Temperature is also a LARGE consideration to get the paint to stick better along with the other follow the directions advice. Brownells has the Teflon/Moly bake-on stuff (@33 a can) I think that is tougher than Dura coat. Did I mention how important it is to DO GREAT SURFACE PREPARATION? (oh yea... skip the sanding part; it is not wood) |
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I paint the rifle in firing condition - meaning I don't disassemble or remove any parts. I do cover the lenses of the optic. I leave the dust cover closed. I put a magazine in it.
I've already wiped it down two or three times with lint free rags and rubbing alcohol to remove oil on the outside. I've painted three Ar15's and my SIG 556R with krylon. Just normal handling/cleaning but the paint is still there for the most part. |
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I leave everything in place tape off sights, close dust cover, and stuff muzzle with paper then paint away. I do a simple wipe down if need be, but usually dont. Also once your done let it dry in the sun for a few days the shoot it and enjoy. ETA:Acetone/wire brush is my remover
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Quoted: Quoted: Paint always ends up getting sticky on my rifles. I degrease and let it cure for a few days, but it always turns into a mess after a month or so. I don't even use solvents or anything. After awhile, I just take acetone and get it off, of scrub it in the sink with a Scotch brite pad and dish soap. Always looks like shit, but that's better than solid black. Krylon clear matte acrylic spray will solve your problem. |
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Paint always ends up getting sticky on my rifles. I degrease and let it cure for a few days, but it always turns into a mess after a month or so. I don't even use solvents or anything. After awhile, I just take acetone and get it off, of scrub it in the sink with a Scotch brite pad and dish soap. Always looks like shit, but that's better than solid black. Krylon clear matte acrylic spray will solve your problem. True. Takes a bit of practice and acquired skill get get it nice on one take. Being the son of a painting contractor and years of experience, I can spray pretty well. I still like the clear coat for its acrylic resistance to cleaning chemicals. |
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