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Posted: 5/22/2011 5:51:20 PM EDT
| I am considering removing the anodizing from an upper and lower receiver just for a different look. Is there any way to remove the anodizing in a tasteful and effective manner? I can bead blast or use chemicals, but wanted to know if there is a best method? Or is this a crazy idea? Thanks! |
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Quoted:
I am considering removing the anodizing from an upper and lower receiver just for a different look. Is there any way to remove the anodizing in a tasteful and effective manner? I can bead blast or use chemicals, but wanted to know if there is a best method? Or is this a crazy idea? Thanks! I just wouldn't. Why not paint over it? J |
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"Why not paint over it?"
Huh?? I want to remove it for a natural aluminum finish. I'm not worried about protecting it, hardening it, etc etc. I want to change the aestethics. It isn't for everyone, like red cars aren't. This is primarily a "how do I accomplish this without destroying a brand new upper and lower?" question. I consider myself an artist. Anyone who modifies a gun is. I build customs and whatever turns my crank. Sometimes I build rock crawler bumpers for Jeeps. I have two black AR's. I want one that's different. I guess I opened the door for opinions, so they are appreciated as well as useful information. |
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Thanks for the NaOH suggestion but " Sodium hydroxide is corrosive to some metals, e.g. aluminum, which produces flammable hydrogen gas on contact.", I think I will pass .... but appreciate you trying to help.
I'm not looking for the chrome look. Just a natural dull finish (although I have polished aluminum BB Chevy intakes, so I can appreciate that work). I have a no finish "major name brand" rail, and a SS barrel so far. I'm sure someone has done this before... Beuller... |
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Quoted:
Thanks for the NaOH suggestion but " Sodium hydroxide is corrosive to some metals, e.g. aluminum, which produces flammable hydrogen gas on contact.", I think I will pass .... but appreciate you trying to help. I'm not looking for the chrome look. Just a natural dull finish (although I have polished aluminum BB Chevy intakes, so I can appreciate that work). I have a no finish "major name brand" rail, and a SS barrel so far. I'm sure someone has done this before... Beuller... For the reason above stay away from the oven cleaner / drano route... |
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I see a lot of useful information already supplied.
1) Don't do it, at least on the upper receiver. That anodizing hardens the surface of the aluminum ... which personally I'd want on the inside where the carrier travels quite violently during recoil or 2) If you are going to do it, bead blast it (or sand blasting would probably work too) or 3) Paint it. There are many refinishing solutions on the market that can go over the anodizing to give it the aluminum look ... Norrells Moly-Resin, Duracoat, KG Gunkote, Alumi-Hyde, ... I'm sure there are others |
| boggy; been a welder most of my adult life, its not a good idea to remove it because just like the color case hardening on an old or new gun for that matter,the anodizing you want to take off is there to help the aluminun be stronger. when its gone youll just have ordinary aluminum of what ever alloy it began as at the foundry. if knowing this, if you still dont want it on there you can get it off with a ,{God forgive me} dremmell tool and sanding tubes. if you go the chem. route, you may have to sand it anyway to remove the uneven etching to get it bright and then youll have to pollish it verry verry often to keep it shining, or seal it with something else that will not make it any stronger. if you are going to do any welding on anidized aluminum take it off or the piece and weld will be screwed up as a football bat. hope this helps. |
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I would send to US Annodizing, and have them do it.
http://www.usanodizing.com/ |
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simple. use draino and water. mix it up outside in a clear plastic contain with enough water to cover the part. drop it in and give it a few. it will eventually remove the die. If the aluminum isnt the higher purity aluminum it might leave smut. that can be easily removed with a quick wash in diluted battery acid. I have done this with a lot or RC parts. u can always re anodize to different colors. rite die is salt based and will eventually fade. read teh previous link too.
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If you have access to a blast cabinet, then glass bead blast it. That's what US Anodizing does to prep for a new coat of anodizing.
I've bead blasted a couple of uppers and lowers, charging handles, sliprings, etc. preparing to send them off to US Anodizing for a re-dyeing, and the parts come out of the cabinet clean with no damage to the markings. No chemical is going to leave the aluminum completely alone, as it's a lot tougher to eat through the hardened anodized surface than into the raw aluminum underneath. Same too for bead blasting, but it stops eating when you shut off the blasting. |
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