Armory Sponsor
Posted: 5/8/2010 10:53:02 AM EDT
|
So, I'm thinking of getting the manganese phosphate parkerizing solution from Laurer to refinish some blued weapons.
I thought parkerizing was the final step. However, Laurer sells a Post Treatment Solution for after parkerizing. Is this necessary? Does it add any lasting protectiveness to the parkerized item? Also, I don't think I'd want my items "chewed up" with Alum Ox blasting - that works great for re-coating with Duracoat, but I think it'd leave the metal too rough. Can I just use good old sand paper, or do I need to buy some glass bead? How much blasting or sanding do I have to do before I parkerize? Do I need to blast down to bare metal like you do for Duracoating? Thanks, H. |
|
you dont need the post treatment solution. After you remove the part from the park solution, rinse it with water to remove any park solution and spray really well with WD40. Let it sit a while and them you can wipe off the excess and apply oil to it.
The better you blast the part with al-oxide, the better it will turn out...do not use sand paper. Al-ox is the best thing to use. The part will be a little rough, but that makes more suface area for the park solution to work and more porous for oil to soak into the part after it is parked. A friend of mine had used glass beads and it worked fine, but I dont know the grit size that he used. Once you blast it, do it again, and then again to make sure the entire surface is roughed up evenly or you will be able to see where it worked well and where it didnt. Another note, make sure you get the solution to the temp that is required. If you dont, it will still bubble up, but the finish will not take and you can wipe it off....trust me I did it once when I ran out of propane. |
|
Quoted:
The better you blast the part with al-oxide, the better it will turn out...do not use sand paper. Al-ox is the best thing to use. The part will be a little rough This isn't a problem with a handgun slide? That's what I'd really like to parkerize, as its blueing is coming off. But I don't want to make the slide not "slide" properly along the frame rails after I parkerize it. Thanks again, H. |
|
Lauer's stainless tanks seem a bit expensive... However, I've been unable to find a barrel suitable tank other than Lauer's, so perhaps they're not too expensive given my lack of finding another tank.
I've seen cheap stainless pails that'll work for smaller equipment, but nothing long and shallow for a rifle barrel. Any suggestions? Also, once the park solution cools, can I bottle it back up for next time, or is it worthless after that? Thanks, H. |
|
i use the Laurer post parkerizing solution as well as thier maganeese solution though I can't say it is absolutely neccessary, I pleased with the results of the post park solution. I have no rusting on any of the parts I did.
I also use cheap stainless pots from walmart for handgun parts. Blasted with aluminum oxide and use distilled water instead of tap. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
|
and you can save the solution. I just keep mine in a rubbermaid pitcher with a flip spout and refresh it after every 5 uses.
I've used pvc pipe capped on both sides and cut a rectange on top and layed down sideways to do a shotgun barrel before. it would have taken more solution than I had to fill one vertically. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
Armory Sponsor