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Posted: 2/9/2009 2:40:12 PM EDT
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Used lauer product
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Clean and degrease rifle thoroughly, first with soap and water then with Non chlorinated Brake cleaner and then with Duracoat Tru Strip
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Then once its all clean, dry and degreased I lay on the first coat, I did it with the rifle disassembled but here it is once the Tan coat has been applied [  ]
Then I let it dry for an hour and started applying the pattern [  ]
Apply the second color and add more pattern [  ]
Apply the final color, dark green, in the future on this pattern I would add some tan to lighten the green a bit [  ]
Peel the patterns off and let the rifle dry for 24 hours [  ]
Clean the rifle with mineral spirits to remove glue residue and apply the "female" templates [  ]
Thats about it [ ]
I used the ACU camo kit from Lauer Custom Weaponry. It took me from 3:00 saturday afternoon till about 10:00 PM, then about another 3 hours on Sunday. So maybe 10 hours + to complete it including waiting between coats |
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Quoted:
it came out really awesome I love it. Any details on brush and compressor setup (or air source)? If compressor did you have a water trap on it ? Lastly, will the paint on the barrel be ok or did you use high temp paint on barrel? Thanks, I like it too. I use a very basic setup, a garage compressor, no water trap, moisture has never been an issue with this compressor . I have had others that moisture is a nightmare ( still have them) and needed filters , but this one is a dream. I use a really basic airbrush the badger 250, you can get them on egay for under $20, I buy several and just toss them out as they start to act up. I used standard Duracoat colors. Not the dura heat. Awhile back I did some rube goldberg testing to see how much heat duracoat can handle on a barrel. My results were as follows: Saiga 103 conversion AK47- Using a 5 rd magazine, I fired steady shots at one second apart, reloaded and continued in this fashion for about 50 rds only stopping long enough to casually reload the mags, it was a cool day out and you could smell the duracoat cooking but no effect on the finish at all. Next day I loaded up some 30 rd mags and dumped 60 rounds in about one minute, well the duracoat turned a nice toasty brown color from the FSB back. Cooked it right off. I would say for most casual use its fine on a barrel. If you plan on mag dumps or sustained fire it would be necessary to use the high temp coating. Just my opinion |
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Quoted: Quoted: it came out really awesome I love it. Any details on brush and compressor setup (or air source)? If compressor did you have a water trap on it ? Lastly, will the paint on the barrel be ok or did you use high temp paint on barrel? Thanks, I like it too. I use a very basic setup, a garage compressor, no water trap, moisture has never been an issue with this compressor . I have had others that moisture is a nightmare ( still have them) and needed filters , but this one is a dream. I use a really basic airbrush the badger 250, you can get them on egay for under $20, I buy several and just toss them out as they start to act up. I used standard Duracoat colors. Not the dura heat. Awhile back I did some rube goldberg testing to see how much heat duracoat can handle on a barrel. My results were as follows: Saiga 103 conversion AK47- Using a 5 rd magazine, I fired steady shots at one second apart, reloaded and continued in this fashion for about 50 rds only stopping long enough to casually reload the mags, it was a cool day out and you could smell the duracoat cooking but no effect on the finish at all. Next day I loaded up some 30 rd mags and dumped 60 rounds in about one minute, well the duracoat turned a nice toasty brown color from the FSB back. Cooked it right off. I would say for most casual use its fine on a barrel. If you plan on mag dumps or sustained fire it would be necessary to use the high temp coating. Just my opinion Paul, How long had the duracoat cured before you did the 30 rd magdumps? Just curious. I've painted several of my AR's and let them cure for about two months before I do any major shooting. I'll take them out for plinking of course, just no major shooting. Haven't had an issue yet. I like the look of the digital, looks good. On the next one (if lauer still includes it) use as many of the small (1/4" squares) as you can fit in between all of his LARGE decals. You'll find it makes a more "full" pattern, and looks great. One other thing, when you're all done, lightly mist every color you used over the whole gun. It will give it more of a blended look. and breaks up the pattern even more. If you do it right it leaves tiny little specks everywhere. closeup, sorry it's blurry.   and my helper...   I'm sure you can recognize the Lauer Digital kit. A few weeks after doing this I bought my own equipment to cut stencils. Mine are different than Lauers. SMaller patterns. I'll get to cutting you some stuff that you want this weekend.... Dan EDITE TO ADD: One with my stencils that I painted....  
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NICE DAN !!!
Hey ! I need a helper too !!! My kids like to shoot them but not work on them or clean them !!! The Duracoat on the AK had been curing for about 3 weeks I believe when I did the mag dumps. A bit early possibly but at 3 weeks it should have been pretty well setup. Plus I figured the heat from the previous shooting ( it got plenty hot, you could smell the finish cooking ) would have finalized it . But who really knows right ? It was a pretty tough test in all honesty. An AK gets mega hot when 60 rounds go down the pipe in a minute or less. Normal shooting wont faze the finish. I know they reccommend dusting the final product with tiny "spatter" to soften the pattern. I could never really get into that. I have done it on a few firearms, but maybe my gun shoots droplets that are too big or something cause I dont like the way it looks when I do it. Thanks again Dan !! |
Looks good. Some advice, with ACU, use the dark green first and the tan last. You want the Tan to be the most prolific color, or the lighter green. Second, don't use the Lauer stencils, use the bulldog ones. Use small sections at a time and never use huge ones like the Lauer style as they leave the uncovered sections much too large. The other suggestion I would make, is when you buy the Duracoat, buy some FDE along with the ACU Tan. The ACU tan dries with a greenish hue to it, so if you mix a little FDE into it, the color comes out much better IMHO. This can be seen in my bottom picture, the stock was done with just straight ACU Tan, the rifle and everything else was done with the mix.
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Quoted:
This rifle had a cav arms lower. They take duracoat really well based on the ones I have done so far. Ahh ooops my bad, I meant Cavalry not century 
I was looking for a C-15 polymer myself because of the light weight and the fact I wouldn't have to buy a separate stock for it. |
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