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6/30/2006 10:27:22 AM EDT
Is this stuff any good for refinishing an old upper?  I am thinking of this stuff vs other finishes because I do not want to buy all the other necessary items right now.  It looks very easy to use.

Thanks
6/30/2006 8:19:35 AM EDT
[#1]
Its good stuff, I use it for stocksets though.

It cant begin to compare to an airbrush finish even from a 15 dollar wal mart airbrush and Norells or KG Guncote.

A rifle I did in Aluminahyde is being stripped and redone in Norell's
6/30/2006 9:50:12 AM EDT
[#2]
To me it seems to picks up a slight semi gloss look after it cures and gets handled some. I have never had it come off though after using it. I did repaint something to soon with it after a heavy first coat and it messed it up. Softened the first coat and never cured.
6/30/2006 8:15:03 AM EDT
[#3]
It works pretty well, but the stuff takes forever to dry completely (at least a week for full cure, in my experience). I does however, stick very well to the receivers, barrel, etc of an AR. It also handles heat pretty well, as muzzle flash has no effect that I've seen on a FS that was painted with it. One thing to remember is that it goes on pretty thick, so if you're doing a stripped receiver, be sure to plug all of the holes for the different pins, and mask off the inside of the receiver. I have been using the bake-on teflon/moly lately, and prefer it to alumahyde.

The black Alumahyde looks good, but the "dark parkerizing gray" seems to have a slightly greenish tint to it.
7/1/2006 7:56:05 AM EDT
[#4]
OK, so I degrease everything with carb cleaner, then tpe off what I don't want covered, then apply primer, let cure, sand?, apply finish?

I am asking the best way to do it.


Thanks
7/1/2006 8:49:34 AM EDT
[#5]
It doesnt need primer and I would not sand an anodized receiver.  Let the remaining anodizing be the primer.

I migh spot rough any smoot shiny wear spots like on the top of carrying handle with some 400 grit.
7/1/2006 5:55:46 PM EDT
[#6]
OK, well I got primer in the kit, so I should not use it?
7/1/2006 7:06:32 PM EDT
[#7]
I never got primer with aluminahyde.

Did you get this from Brownells?  What do your instructions say?
7/2/2006 4:15:28 PM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
I never got primer with aluminahyde.

Did you get this from Brownells?  What do your instructions say?



Yes I got it form Brownells.  The only instructions are on the back of the can and it says to use primer, but if you don't use it and it comes out thick, then screw it, I will try it without the primer.
7/2/2006 4:19:22 PM EDT
[#9]
I going to not strip the upper down, do I need to worry about clogging up anything such as the A1 sight, dust cover etc...?
7/2/2006 4:32:35 PM EDT
[#10]
It sprays heavy, so make sure you are preheating, and spraying VERY thin coats.  I wouldn't bother pulling the sights if you are using Alumahide.
7/2/2006 7:37:14 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
It sprays heavy, so make sure you are preheating, and spraying VERY thin coats.  I wouldn't bother pulling the sights if you are using Alumahide.



What about just taping?  I don't want to dissassemble the upper so how should I heat it?  Blowdryer?
7/2/2006 7:53:11 PM EDT
[#12]
If you are not dissasembling anything, I would let is sit in a wallpaper trough filled with EtOH to degrease it first.
7/2/2006 8:07:24 PM EDT
[#13]

Quoted:

What about just taping?  I don't want to dissassemble the upper so how should I heat it?  Blowdryer?




Heat it with a hairdryer, thats all I do most of the time.  As already posted, degrease the life out of that pig.  You may want to pull the front sight out, but the rest can be sprayed as is.  The rear sight I would leave alone.

The front sight has a lot of oil that usually sits inside, which is why it can be worth pulling.

I usually degrease with a can of $1 carb cleaner.
7/3/2006 2:27:20 AM EDT
[#14]
I hope you are not in a hurry,Alumahide takes forever to cure,and when its cured it is not very solvent resistant.If I were you I would use some type of thermoset finish like guncoat.If you use Alumahide ,let it cure for a week.Then after a week,respray your spots you missed and let it cure another week.Guncoat is much more resistant to wear and solvents,looks better,and you can reassemble in a couple of hours.You will have to learn your own lessons,but I can guarantee you are not going to be satisfied with the results.Alumihide is alright for stocks and other parts you cannot bake,but thats about it.Its really no better than Krylon and takes longer to cure.
7/3/2006 9:56:51 AM EDT
[#15]
I am only going to do the receiver and not the barrel or anything.  Should I cover the dust cover and spring ?
7/3/2006 3:35:00 PM EDT
[#16]
i think brownells carries KG gunkote in aresol cans, but since you already bought alumnyhide there is no going back. i guess i am just used to gunkote/duracoat, but the alumnyhide i used turned out a aweful lot like standard spray paint.


on a side note, while doing my last refinishing project i really tried the preheat thing but i got nowhere. can you really manage to heat up a SPR barrel with a puny hairdryer??? i tried for about 10 minutes and said f it.
7/3/2006 5:15:09 PM EDT
[#17]
Well I went ahead and did it and it doesn't look bad at all.  It was 110 degrees where I am plus I used a hair dryer and got the receiver hot.  It did not come out as thick as I thought it would, honestly, I looks pretty good.  It really takes a long time to cure?  Because it is totally dry to the touch?
7/3/2006 10:42:18 PM EDT
[#18]
Alumahyde  reminds me of rustoleum....

I would stay away from it if you can in the future...
7/4/2006 8:01:21 AM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:
It really takes a long time to cure?  Because it is totally dry to the touch?



Dry to the touch, and cured are two very different things.
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