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Posted: 7/18/2012 8:11:37 AM EDT
| Can some explain the difference if any between the FLIR "Instant Red Alert" mode on the green color PS scout units vs the FLIR "Marine Red" mode on the yellow color marine units? Thanks for any info! |
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Here is what I understand about it, although I do not have hands on experience with these models. The PS (green body) has the Instalert feature which turns items of a certain temperature (usually that of a living animal/human) red. On the MS (yellow marine body), there is a red/black setting instead of the Instalert. So you can do white/black or red/black image. It is to help preserve you eyes natural night vision. I don't think it turns certain items red, instead, all items which were previously white become red.
If somebody would verify the info above, I would appreciate it. I do not want to state it as fact, but it is what I understand about the models when I was researching them. I was going to purchase one or the other, but ended up trading into another unit. The red/black setting makes sense to me. Last night I was playing around with my thermal imager (DiOP Cadet 75), and the white display from the white/black image really does mess with your eye's natural night vision. Even with my landscape lighting on, I very much noticed how much the white affects it. Even when I went inside, it took a few minutes to settle down. Nothing horrible, but it could definitely be an issue if I was boating and close to a pier. |
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I have a question about my FLIR PS-32 too, does it have a "shuttered" thermal microblomoter as about every minute or so I notice it locks up for a second and you can hear a shutter-like sound. As a non-weapon thermal scanner it is not a problem but wondering since my FLIR weapon scopes do not do this.
In the Marine PS series brochure, the "Marine Red" appears to be an entire low level red color over the B/W image to keep your night vision more intact. See Page #2: http://www.flir.com/uploadedFiles/First%20Mate%20Brochure_web.pdf |
| The shutter thing is a Flat Field Correction (FFC). Basically, on startup the individual detectors in the array are not all equally sensitive etc. So you have to calibrate them all to some standard. Automatic FFC is accomplished by swiping a even temperature shutter accross the array. Thats the little click you hear every so often. Manual FFC has to be done with the lens cap on or some other uniform field in front of the camera and then a button press to initiate the calibration. |
| Does anybody know if the red/black is reversible like the white/black hot feature? I find that hot things are easier to find with white hot. But details are easier to see or pick out with black hot. I would imagine that having it black hot would be better if you were looking for details on an item rather than seeing if it was hot. |
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The marine red is basically the same as white hot, with the exception that everything that would be white, is displayed in red. Unfortunately, in the dark, the green battery icon, and the white flir trademark, are bright enough to ruin a lot of the night adaptation of your eyes, so it doesn't really help as much as it should. My understanding of the insta red mode, is that for hot objects, which would normally appear as a white blob, it allows the system to assign a gradient to the white, so the hotter parts of the white, will be colored in red. I don't think that the marine red mode is as useful as it should be, because flir should have toned down all the non red objects in the viewfinder if they really wanted to preserve a person's night vision. Likewise, the instared may allow some hightlighting of a hot object, to allow you to perceive a little bit more information about the structure (shape) of a hot object, but it I haven't seen a scout yet, so I'm not sure how useful it is. |
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