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Posted: 12/11/2013 11:13:28 AM EDT
What's the value on these used? I have a shot at buying one and the guys is asking 250.
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| I got it! Cleaned it up Sunday and took it out and it wouldn't fire. Could something be clogged in the nipple? I got to get a wrench to fit down on ot to remove it so I can check it out. The bore is solid and tight to the bottom but it did have a little surface rust from the guy not cleaning it we'll. as far as the not firing, what all should I look At? |
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Remove the nipple and use a pipe cleaner run it through the flash hole into the barrel and clean it out good. If it is hardened crud you can put some solvent in the bore and let it soak in and clean. If you have a compressor you can also try to blow it out. Since you are not familiar with BP guns make sure you always blow a cap when unloaded to clean out any oil in the chamber. Then load. Always remember to put you mouth over the muzzle and blow after every shot. This will make sure any still burning powder does not ignite when reloading. |
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Quoted:
Remove the nipple and use a pipe cleaner run it through the flash hole into the barrel and clean it out good. If it is hardened crud you can put some solvent in the bore and let it soak in and clean. If you have a compressor you can also try to blow it out. Since you are not familiar with BP guns make sure you always blow a cap when unloaded to clean out any oil in the chamber. Then load. Always remember to put you mouth over the muzzle and blow after every shot. This will make sure any still burning powder does not ignite when reloading. I am more familiar with more modern in line bp. What's a good wrench to use on the nipple? |
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That's more than a little surface rust. I'd have to take a look in the bore myself, but I'm inclined to believe you paid $250 for a $50 project gun that needs a new barrel.
My rule on muzzleloaders is I have to be able to shine a light down the bore and see a reflection coming back up at me. If you shine a light down and it looks like a cave down there, it should be priced as needing a new barrel. You might be able to salvage it with lots of steel wool, JB Bore Paste, elbow grease, and time. Is there visible pitting in the bore? |
| You need loose powder. These have a patent breech. That is, a smaller powder well in the breech that is where the primer fires. Loose powder and it will ignite as fast as your inline. I'm actually surprised it went at all with a pellet. I use 80gr of 777 in mine with a patched round ball. |
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You need loose powder. These have a patent breech. That is, a smaller powder well in the breech that is where the primer fires. Loose powder and it will ignite as fast as your inline. I'm actually surprised it went at all with a pellet. I use 80gr of 777 in mine with a patched round ball. Thanks shotar, I will try it! |
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Ive had issues with mine going off too, after the first shot then it will shoot fine. But getting the first one to go off has been difficult. The Patent Breech, its an oil holder. Snap a couple caps on it before you load to burn off that oil and or moisture and you should be good to go. For me personally, I keep my ML's pretty dry, and do have minor surface rust on the interior of the barrel. It shoots out on the first shot. I also don't have to run 2 patches down the bore prior to shooting, I can grab the rifle and my pouch and horn and have the gun in operation in under 20 seconds. |
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Quoted:
The Patent Breech, its an oil holder. Snap a couple caps on it before you load to burn off that oil and or moisture and you should be good to go. For me personally, I keep my ML's pretty dry, and do have minor surface rust on the interior of the barrel. It shoots out on the first shot. I also don't have to run 2 patches down the bore prior to shooting, I can grab the rifle and my pouch and horn and have the gun in operation in under 20 seconds. Quoted:
Quoted:
Ive had issues with mine going off too, after the first shot then it will shoot fine. But getting the first one to go off has been difficult. The Patent Breech, its an oil holder. Snap a couple caps on it before you load to burn off that oil and or moisture and you should be good to go. For me personally, I keep my ML's pretty dry, and do have minor surface rust on the interior of the barrel. It shoots out on the first shot. I also don't have to run 2 patches down the bore prior to shooting, I can grab the rifle and my pouch and horn and have the gun in operation in under 20 seconds. I oil mine lightly when I store it, but what I do before it shoot is to run a patch soaked in alcohol down the bore, swish it back and forth a few times to draw air and alcohol through the touch hole (flinter) or nipple (percussion) and clean it all up. Then I give it a minute or two to dry out after that. Never any problems when doing it that way. |
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Quoted:
I oil mine lightly when I store it, but what I do before it shoot is to run a patch soaked in alcohol down the bore, swish it back and forth a few times to draw air and alcohol through the touch hole (flinter) or nipple (percussion) and clean it all up. Then I give it a minute or two to dry out after that. Never any problems when doing it that way. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Ive had issues with mine going off too, after the first shot then it will shoot fine. But getting the first one to go off has been difficult. The Patent Breech, its an oil holder. Snap a couple caps on it before you load to burn off that oil and or moisture and you should be good to go. For me personally, I keep my ML's pretty dry, and do have minor surface rust on the interior of the barrel. It shoots out on the first shot. I also don't have to run 2 patches down the bore prior to shooting, I can grab the rifle and my pouch and horn and have the gun in operation in under 20 seconds. I oil mine lightly when I store it, but what I do before it shoot is to run a patch soaked in alcohol down the bore, swish it back and forth a few times to draw air and alcohol through the touch hole (flinter) or nipple (percussion) and clean it all up. Then I give it a minute or two to dry out after that. Never any problems when doing it that way. That is an option, a very good one in fact. But its so darn modern that I just cant begin to comprehend it LOL I suppose there is something other than bear or beaver oil to use on these guns, but why? 
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OP those patches don't look too bad. I'd keep at it regularly with a wire brush and more patches.
Even if there is minor pitting BP guns are forgiving. If that were me project i would replace the original nipple with a "hot shot" nipple. (don't forget anti-seize around the threads) And try to use Goex powder. My .45 Hawken likes 70 grains of FFF. |
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Just joined the forum as a result of looking for some information on my Hawken .50 cal and came across this thread. I've always used a C02 discharger to clear out the oil after cleaning or storing. They are the best tool available for safely cleaning out fouling or FTF. If you get the kit, it comes with several attachments for various size nipples. The kits are available at Dixie Gun Works or at Cabelas.
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/default.php?cPath=22_99_322 http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shooting/Black-Powder/Patches-Solvents-Cleaning%7C/pc/104792580/c/104701680/sc/104491980/CO2-Load-Discharger-Kit-and-Replacement-Cartridges/706432.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Fpatches-solvents-cleaning%2F_%2FN-1100205%2FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_104491980%3FWTz_l%3DSBC%253BBRprd733608%253Bcat104701680&WTz_l=SBC%3BBRprd733608%3Bcat104701680%3Bcat104491980 I have used mine on many FTF and always to clean out any remaining oil. Hope this helps! http://images.cabelas.com/is/image/cabelas/s7_217358_999_01 |
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