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Posted: 7/16/2011 11:35:34 AM EDT
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I am very happy. 1942 vkt. I need to finish the stock...wonder what the finns used...my other two are very waxy. BLO? I usually use military ox. Thanks for looking. let me know if you see anything interesting.
Evidence of arsenal tag..I think. Looks like it fell of some time before I ended up with it. 
No serial# on magplate 
need to learn to swirley the serial. 100% bluing 
Bore looks new 
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Don't 'finish' the stock!!!!!!!
I already has a finish on it. It is a very dry type, but it is there (I can see it in the pics). It is very weather proof too. If you change any of those rifles you will burn in bubba hell for at least a day and a half! Nice rifles though OP. Your new VKT is most likely a post war build using mostly WW2 era parts. This is evidenced by the bluing pattern and the fact that it has hardly been used. |
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Try the original - http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=137&t=85350
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Oh. I was going to sporterize the stock and tap it for a scope. just jokin!!! 
So, think i can just apply some BLO to the stock??? I'm going to do a complete breakdown and clean later...the fun is just beginning! thanks for the tips  Apply NOTHING to the stock. Applying anything to it will greatly affect both the value and originality of the rifle. 
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That is only if the stock has yet to be finished. The OP's rifle ALREADY has had the pine tar treatment. Applying your own pine tar finish would only be acceptable if you are restocking a rifle with a stock that has yet to be finished or if you are correcting the finish of a stock that has been bubba'ed. Either way applying your own finish implies a lack of originality or will take away from the originality of the riifle. edit: OP may be being facetious (or not) I just want to make sure other people know that doing anything at all to an already original Finnish rifle will greatly affect it's value. The Finn's didn't apply thier own finishes to their rifles outside of the arsenal like Americans did with the oil finishes on U.S. rifles. The finishes applied to Finnish rifles' stock when they are new usually appear very dry and slightly rough and may seem to the unfamiliar to totally lack a finish. This is on purpose and does not warrant any change or 'improvement.' |
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Good looking rifle there....
My first M39 is currently in transit at this time....I hope it looks as good as yours. I pick it up from my FFL on Wednesday. I think I might just have him order me one of these M39s from SOG (I don't have a C&R). I think your about the third guy on here who's recently bought one from SOG and everyone has been more than happy with what they have recieved. Price is right too. Any advice on ordering from SOG? Is there different grades or a handpick option? |
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Quoted: Good looking rifle there.... My first M39 is currently in transit at this time....I hope it looks as good as yours. I pick it up from my FFL on Wednesday. I think I might just have him order me one of these M39s from SOG (I don't have a C&R). I think your about the third guy on here who's recently bought one from SOG and everyone has been more than happy with what they have recieved. Price is right too. Any advice on ordering from SOG? Is there different grades or a handpick option? There is a $10 handpick option, yes. |
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those stocks look so good already that i would only suggest tung oil from the pure milk co. they already look great. all you need to do is preserve. Eveyone in this thread must be messing with me or something. 
DO NOT APPLY ANYTHING TO A FINNISH RIFLE'S STOCK AT ALL! If you think you know better than the FDF, then go ahead, but everyone will think you are damaging your rifle. I'll keep my Finn's how they were meant to be kept with their original and unmolested arsenal finish which will do fine at preserving the rifle for at least another 60 years, just as it has done. |
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Ok. Thanks for all the input. The new rifle just feels so dry...like it is dried out wood and will splinter...I will keep as is. That's natural. In my experience, the finish is quite durable. The arctic birch wood used is also very strong and dense. From the pics, it looks like your rifle's stock is quite normal, so I wouldn't fret. |
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Oh for fuck's sake. That poor rifle is proper raped now. Is that a legistlative requirement or why do they do that? http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff388/MrDryCry/IMG_2832.jpg yes  You should google image 'M91/30 bilboard import marks' to see some really horrendous ones.
But you guys do this to some of your rifles to meet CIP reqirements:  + lengthening the throat.
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Quoted: Oh for fuck's sake. That poor rifle is proper raped now. Is that a legistlative requirement or why do they do that? http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff388/MrDryCry/IMG_2832.jpg Eh, it's better there than the huge billboard that other importers (Century) use. |
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That is only if the stock has yet to be finished. The OP's rifle ALREADY has had the pine tar treatment. Applying your own pine tar finish would only be acceptable if you are restocking a rifle with a stock that has yet to be finished or if you are correcting the finish of a stock that has been bubba'ed. Either way applying your own finish implies a lack of originality or will take away from the originality of the riifle. edit: OP may be being facetious (or not) I just want to make sure other people know that doing anything at all to an already original Finnish rifle will greatly affect it's value. The Finn's didn't apply thier own finishes to their rifles outside of the arsenal like Americans did with the oil finishes on U.S. rifles. The finishes applied to Finnish rifles' stock when they are new usually appear very dry and slightly rough and may seem to the unfamiliar to totally lack a finish. This is on purpose and does not warrant any change or 'improvement.' I did the handpicked for 10 bucks. prob worth it. |
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If you feel compelled - the correct stock conditioner is 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 beeswax, and 1/3 steam distilled gum turpentine - commonly known on the Gunboards.com Mosin Collectors Forum as "Rancid Reindeer Sauce". Please note the turpentine is the old fashioned steam distilled gum turpentine made from old pine stumps. It should smell very fresh and piney, not like chemicals or sulfur. Slowly warm the beeswax in a double boiler until liquid, then remove from the stove and fold the linseed oil and turpentine in. Make sure you are away from flames and heat! The flash point of turpentine is quite low and it will burn furiously with the beeswax.
I would only use this conditioner to touch up any scrapes or dings or if I was planning to hunt with the rifle in the rain. BTW those rifles are beautiful. dcat |
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If you feel compelled - the correct stock conditioner is 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 beeswax, and 1/3 steam distilled gum turpentine - commonly known on the Gunboards.com Mosin Collectors Forum as "Rancid Reindeer Sauce". Please note the turpentine is the old fashioned steam distilled gum turpentine made from old pine stumps. It should smell very fresh and piney, not like chemicals or sulfur. Slowly warm the beeswax in a double boiler until liquid, then remove from the stove and fold the linseed oil and turpentine in. Make sure you are away from flames and heat! The flash point of turpentine is quite low and it will burn furiously with the beeswax. I would only use this conditioner to touch up any scrapes or dings or if I was planning to hunt with the rifle in the rain. BTW those rifles are beautiful. dcat Yeah, this rifle doesn't have any problems and it's finish is currently intact. Applying anything to this rifle in it's current state will seriously affect it's value. THE FINISH IS SUPPOSED TO FEEL DRY! |
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If you feel compelled - the correct stock conditioner is 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 beeswax, and 1/3 steam distilled gum turpentine - commonly known on the Gunboards.com Mosin Collectors Forum as "Rancid Reindeer Sauce". Please note the turpentine is the old fashioned steam distilled gum turpentine made from old pine stumps. It should smell very fresh and piney, not like chemicals or sulfur. Slowly warm the beeswax in a double boiler until liquid, then remove from the stove and fold the linseed oil and turpentine in. Make sure you are away from flames and heat! The flash point of turpentine is quite low and it will burn furiously with the beeswax. I would only use this conditioner to touch up any scrapes or dings or if I was planning to hunt with the rifle in the rain. BTW those rifles are beautiful. dcat Yeah, this rifle doesn't have any problems and it's finish is currently intact. Applying anything to this rifle in it's current state will seriously affect it's value. THE FINISH IS SUPPOSED TO FEEL DRY! Yes, please dont screw with it. |
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If you feel compelled - the correct stock conditioner is 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 beeswax, and 1/3 steam distilled gum turpentine - commonly known on the Gunboards.com Mosin Collectors Forum as "Rancid Reindeer Sauce". Please note the turpentine is the old fashioned steam distilled gum turpentine made from old pine stumps. It should smell very fresh and piney, not like chemicals or sulfur. Slowly warm the beeswax in a double boiler until liquid, then remove from the stove and fold the linseed oil and turpentine in. Make sure you are away from flames and heat! The flash point of turpentine is quite low and it will burn furiously with the beeswax. I would only use this conditioner to touch up any scrapes or dings or if I was planning to hunt with the rifle in the rain. BTW those rifles are beautiful. dcat Yeah, this rifle doesn't have any problems and it's finish is currently intact. Applying anything to this rifle in it's current state will seriously affect it's value. THE FINISH IS SUPPOSED TO FEEL DRY! Yes, please dont screw with it. It is important to point out that there is no academic consensus on what a "correct" Finnish wood treatment is. There are some theories based on very sketchy accounts and lots of collectors' "feelings" and "assumptions" but no documented evidence whatsoever. The 1/3 "mix" is a good, likely option, and fine for a restoration job of a bubba'd gun or using on your bookshelves, but most serious Finn collectors will tell you that anything you apply to your stock removes its "original" status, reduces its value, is not "correct," and is unnecessary anyway. |
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will not fool with this one. Only going to give her a thorough cleaning. Hope to shoot this weekend.
Thank you for all the input and helping me to avoid an unintentional bubba move.
Stock just felt so different from my other two M39s, i thought I needed to do something!
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If you feel compelled - the correct stock conditioner is 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 beeswax, and 1/3 steam distilled gum turpentine - commonly known on the Gunboards.com Mosin Collectors Forum as "Rancid Reindeer Sauce". Please note the turpentine is the old fashioned steam distilled gum turpentine made from old pine stumps. It should smell very fresh and piney, not like chemicals or sulfur. Slowly warm the beeswax in a double boiler until liquid, then remove from the stove and fold the linseed oil and turpentine in. Make sure you are away from flames and heat! The flash point of turpentine is quite low and it will burn furiously with the beeswax. I would only use this conditioner to touch up any scrapes or dings or if I was planning to hunt with the rifle in the rain. BTW those rifles are beautiful. dcat Yeah, this rifle doesn't have any problems and it's finish is currently intact. Applying anything to this rifle in it's current state will seriously affect it's value. THE FINISH IS SUPPOSED TO FEEL DRY! Yes, please dont screw with it. It is important to point out that there is no academic consensus on what a "correct" Finnish wood treatment is. There are some theories based on very sketchy accounts and lots of collectors' "feelings" and "assumptions" but no documented evidence whatsoever. The 1/3 "mix" is a good, likely option, and fine for a restoration job of a bubba'd gun or using on your bookshelves, but most serious Finn collectors will tell you that anything you apply to your stock removes its "original" status, reduces its value, is not "correct," and is unnecessary anyway. I do not know about academic consensus but there is a clear consensus on the Collector Forum on Gunboards.com that the recipe I quoted is correct. I did not propose refinishing, I said the recipe I quoted was appropriate to touch up any new scratches and would be appopriate if the rifle was to be used in the rain. Would it be better to let the stock swell and split? |
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will not fool with this one. Only going to give her a thorough cleaning. Hope to shoot this weekend. Thank you for all the input and helping me to avoid an unintentional bubba move.
Stock just felt so different from my other two M39s, i thought I needed to do something! Oh please, please no! Do NOT insert cleaning rod or even one round of ammunition into original Imperial Russian Hex Receiver attached to rifle. To do so will take the maidenhead of Mother Russia, cause major earthquakes, and seriously affect collector value!
dcat |
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If you feel compelled - the correct stock conditioner is 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 beeswax, and 1/3 steam distilled gum turpentine - commonly known on the Gunboards.com Mosin Collectors Forum as "Rancid Reindeer Sauce". Please note the turpentine is the old fashioned steam distilled gum turpentine made from old pine stumps. It should smell very fresh and piney, not like chemicals or sulfur. Slowly warm the beeswax in a double boiler until liquid, then remove from the stove and fold the linseed oil and turpentine in. Make sure you are away from flames and heat! The flash point of turpentine is quite low and it will burn furiously with the beeswax. I would only use this conditioner to touch up any scrapes or dings or if I was planning to hunt with the rifle in the rain. BTW those rifles are beautiful. dcat Yeah, this rifle doesn't have any problems and it's finish is currently intact. Applying anything to this rifle in it's current state will seriously affect it's value. THE FINISH IS SUPPOSED TO FEEL DRY! Yes, please dont screw with it. It is important to point out that there is no academic consensus on what a "correct" Finnish wood treatment is. There are some theories based on very sketchy accounts and lots of collectors' "feelings" and "assumptions" but no documented evidence whatsoever. The 1/3 "mix" is a good, likely option, and fine for a restoration job of a bubba'd gun or using on your bookshelves, but most serious Finn collectors will tell you that anything you apply to your stock removes its "original" status, reduces its value, is not "correct," and is unnecessary anyway. I do not know about academic consensus but there is a clear consensus on the Collector Forum on Gunboards.com that the recipe I quoted is correct. I did not propose refinishing, I said the recipe I quoted was appropriate to touch up any new scratches and would be appopriate if the rifle was to be used in the rain. Would it be better to let the stock swell and split? I've been a member of the gunboards Collector's Forum for almost 10 years and I can assure you that the "consensus" is under some contention. Most of us who prefer unmolested rifles are sick of arguing it. However, the camp that absolutely HAS to do SOMETHING to their rifles is louder and willfully ignorant, and in fact one member actually makes and sells a "1/3 Mix" product and claims it's "correct." There is a Finnish military stock oil that a Finnish member has recently been researching and it could very well be part of the answer. But the fact remains that even if you had an original bottle of 1939 Finnish stock oil, applying it to a collectible rifle's stock will reduce that rifle's originality and collectibility. I don't know why this is so hard to understand. I don't care if you want to put 1/3 mix on your rifle, or BLO, or poly, or duracoat, or hot pink spraypaint. I won't lose a wink of sleep about it. If you want to use it in the rain, by all means, put something on the stock. But do not fool yourself that you're not reducing your rifle's value and collector's appeal if you do so. Even worse is when a newbie collector hears that it's acceptable to do so and later finds out his rifle might have been very rare and valuable if he hadn't refinished it. |
| If you check the date on the tang of the receiver I bet it's old enough you won't mind the pitting so much. Some of them are antiques, mine is a 1909 and has pitting like yours. It didn't bother the Finns whenthey rebuilt the rifle so I don't let it bother me. BTW, thats a beautiful rifle with, I believe, a wartime stock looking at the rounded fingers on the splice. |
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If you check the date on the tang of the receiver I bet it's old enough you won't mind the pitting so much. Some of them are antiques, mine is a 1909 and has pitting like yours. It didn't bother the Finns whenthey rebuilt the rifle so I don't let it bother me. BTW, thats a beautiful rifle with, I believe, a wartime stock looking at the rounded fingers on the splice. I have one with some pitting too, you'll get used to it. If the Finns thought it was good enough to build into an M39, it's good enough for me. |
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If you check the date on the tang of the receiver I bet it's old enough you won't mind the pitting so much. Some of them are antiques, mine is a 1909 and has pitting like yours. It didn't bother the Finns whenthey rebuilt the rifle so I don't let it bother me. BTW, thats a beautiful rifle with, I believe, a wartime stock looking at the rounded fingers on the splice. 1905 Izzy receiver
The pitting doesn't bother me. I am really happy with the rifle, for around 260 delivered I got one hell of a nice rifle. The wood is beautiful, the pics don't do it justice. I was just kind of hoping for a collectable safe queen is all.......but this will make an awesome shooter instead. I now have an excuse to pick up a third M39....... 
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Quoted: Oh. I was going to sporterize the stock and tap it for a scope. just jokin!!! So, think i can just apply some BLO to the stock??? I'm going to do a complete breakdown and clean later...the fun is just beginning! thanks for the tips I was told by a wise old rifle collector to use Howards Feed-N-Wax on my old military rifles and it does a great job of refreshing old stocks. I do clean with lemon oil first thoroughly but gently to clean up the old grease and grime. |
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If you feel compelled - the correct stock conditioner is 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 beeswax, and 1/3 steam distilled gum turpentine - commonly known on the Gunboards.com Mosin Collectors Forum as "Rancid Reindeer Sauce". Please note the turpentine is the old fashioned steam distilled gum turpentine made from old pine stumps. It should smell very fresh and piney, not like chemicals or sulfur. Slowly warm the beeswax in a double boiler until liquid, then remove from the stove and fold the linseed oil and turpentine in. Make sure you are away from flames and heat! The flash point of turpentine is quite low and it will burn furiously with the beeswax. I would only use this conditioner to touch up any scrapes or dings or if I was planning to hunt with the rifle in the rain. BTW those rifles are beautiful. dcat Yeah, this rifle doesn't have any problems and it's finish is currently intact. Applying anything to this rifle in it's current state will seriously affect it's value. THE FINISH IS SUPPOSED TO FEEL DRY! Yes, please dont screw with it. It is important to point out that there is no academic consensus on what a "correct" Finnish wood treatment is. There are some theories based on very sketchy accounts and lots of collectors' "feelings" and "assumptions" but no documented evidence whatsoever. The 1/3 "mix" is a good, likely option, and fine for a restoration job of a bubba'd gun or using on your bookshelves, but most serious Finn collectors will tell you that anything you apply to your stock removes its "original" status, reduces its value, is not "correct," and is unnecessary anyway. I do not know about academic consensus but there is a clear consensus on the Collector Forum on Gunboards.com that the recipe I quoted is correct. I did not propose refinishing, I said the recipe I quoted was appropriate to touch up any new scratches and would be appopriate if the rifle was to be used in the rain. Would it be better to let the stock swell and split? I've been a member of the gunboards Collector's Forum for almost 10 years and I can assure you that the "consensus" is under some contention. Most of us who prefer unmolested rifles are sick of arguing it. However, the camp that absolutely HAS to do SOMETHING to their rifles is louder and willfully ignorant, and in fact one member actually makes and sells a "1/3 Mix" product and claims it's "correct." There is a Finnish military stock oil that a Finnish member has recently been researching and it could very well be part of the answer. But the fact remains that even if you had an original bottle of 1939 Finnish stock oil, applying it to a collectible rifle's stock will reduce that rifle's originality and collectibility. I don't know why this is so hard to understand. I don't care if you want to put 1/3 mix on your rifle, or BLO, or poly, or duracoat, or hot pink spraypaint. I won't lose a wink of sleep about it. If you want to use it in the rain, by all means, put something on the stock. But do not fool yourself that you're not reducing your rifle's value and collector's appeal if you do so. Even worse is when a newbie collector hears that it's acceptable to do so and later finds out his rifle might have been very rare and valuable if he hadn't refinished it. I approve of this message.  I have been a member on Tuco's/Gunboards since 1998.
Richard in NY |
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If you feel compelled - the correct stock conditioner is 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 beeswax, and 1/3 steam distilled gum turpentine - commonly known on the Gunboards.com Mosin Collectors Forum as "Rancid Reindeer Sauce". Please note the turpentine is the old fashioned steam distilled gum turpentine made from old pine stumps. It should smell very fresh and piney, not like chemicals or sulfur. Slowly warm the beeswax in a double boiler until liquid, then remove from the stove and fold the linseed oil and turpentine in. Make sure you are away from flames and heat! The flash point of turpentine is quite low and it will burn furiously with the beeswax. I would only use this conditioner to touch up any scrapes or dings or if I was planning to hunt with the rifle in the rain. BTW those rifles are beautiful. dcat Yeah, this rifle doesn't have any problems and it's finish is currently intact. Applying anything to this rifle in it's current state will seriously affect it's value. THE FINISH IS SUPPOSED TO FEEL DRY! Yes, please dont screw with it. It is important to point out that there is no academic consensus on what a "correct" Finnish wood treatment is. There are some theories based on very sketchy accounts and lots of collectors' "feelings" and "assumptions" but no documented evidence whatsoever. The 1/3 "mix" is a good, likely option, and fine for a restoration job of a bubba'd gun or using on your bookshelves, but most serious Finn collectors will tell you that anything you apply to your stock removes its "original" status, reduces its value, is not "correct," and is unnecessary anyway. I do not know about academic consensus but there is a clear consensus on the Collector Forum on Gunboards.com that the recipe I quoted is correct. I did not propose refinishing, I said the recipe I quoted was appropriate to touch up any new scratches and would be appopriate if the rifle was to be used in the rain. Would it be better to let the stock swell and split? I've been a member of the gunboards Collector's Forum for almost 10 years and I can assure you that the "consensus" is under some contention. Most of us who prefer unmolested rifles are sick of arguing it. However, the camp that absolutely HAS to do SOMETHING to their rifles is louder and willfully ignorant, and in fact one member actually makes and sells a "1/3 Mix" product and claims it's "correct." There is a Finnish military stock oil that a Finnish member has recently been researching and it could very well be part of the answer. But the fact remains that even if you had an original bottle of 1939 Finnish stock oil, applying it to a collectible rifle's stock will reduce that rifle's originality and collectibility. I don't know why this is so hard to understand. I don't care if you want to put 1/3 mix on your rifle, or BLO, or poly, or duracoat, or hot pink spraypaint. I won't lose a wink of sleep about it. If you want to use it in the rain, by all means, put something on the stock. But do not fool yourself that you're not reducing your rifle's value and collector's appeal if you do so. Even worse is when a newbie collector hears that it's acceptable to do so and later finds out his rifle might have been very rare and valuable if he hadn't refinished it. I approve of this message. I have been a member on Tuco's/Gunboards since 1998.
Richard in NY |
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If you feel compelled - the correct stock conditioner is 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 beeswax, and 1/3 steam distilled gum turpentine - commonly known on the Gunboards.com Mosin Collectors Forum as "Rancid Reindeer Sauce". Please note the turpentine is the old fashioned steam distilled gum turpentine made from old pine stumps. It should smell very fresh and piney, not like chemicals or sulfur. Slowly warm the beeswax in a double boiler until liquid, then remove from the stove and fold the linseed oil and turpentine in. Make sure you are away from flames and heat! The flash point of turpentine is quite low and it will burn furiously with the beeswax. I would only use this conditioner to touch up any scrapes or dings or if I was planning to hunt with the rifle in the rain. BTW those rifles are beautiful. dcat Yeah, this rifle doesn't have any problems and it's finish is currently intact. Applying anything to this rifle in it's current state will seriously affect it's value. THE FINISH IS SUPPOSED TO FEEL DRY! Yes, please dont screw with it. It is important to point out that there is no academic consensus on what a "correct" Finnish wood treatment is. There are some theories based on very sketchy accounts and lots of collectors' "feelings" and "assumptions" but no documented evidence whatsoever. The 1/3 "mix" is a good, likely option, and fine for a restoration job of a bubba'd gun or using on your bookshelves, but most serious Finn collectors will tell you that anything you apply to your stock removes its "original" status, reduces its value, is not "correct," and is unnecessary anyway. I do not know about academic consensus but there is a clear consensus on the Collector Forum on Gunboards.com that the recipe I quoted is correct. I did not propose refinishing, I said the recipe I quoted was appropriate to touch up any new scratches and would be appopriate if the rifle was to be used in the rain. Would it be better to let the stock swell and split? I've been a member of the gunboards Collector's Forum for almost 10 years and I can assure you that the "consensus" is under some contention. Most of us who prefer unmolested rifles are sick of arguing it. However, the camp that absolutely HAS to do SOMETHING to their rifles is louder and willfully ignorant, and in fact one member actually makes and sells a "1/3 Mix" product and claims it's "correct." There is a Finnish military stock oil that a Finnish member has recently been researching and it could very well be part of the answer. But the fact remains that even if you had an original bottle of 1939 Finnish stock oil, applying it to a collectible rifle's stock will reduce that rifle's originality and collectibility. I don't know why this is so hard to understand. I don't care if you want to put 1/3 mix on your rifle, or BLO, or poly, or duracoat, or hot pink spraypaint. I won't lose a wink of sleep about it. If you want to use it in the rain, by all means, put something on the stock. But do not fool yourself that you're not reducing your rifle's value and collector's appeal if you do so. Even worse is when a newbie collector hears that it's acceptable to do so and later finds out his rifle might have been very rare and valuable if he hadn't refinished it. I approve of this message. I have been a member on Tuco's/Gunboards since 1998.
Richard in NY Well my Gunboards profile says I have been a member since 1/1/1970.
dcat |
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