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11/1/2010 2:54:34 PM EDT
A buddy of mine has an old S&W wheel gun that we are working on restoring. I remember a thread in here a while back about someone removing a metric shit ton of rust from an old Mauser and was wondering if anyone had any links to that thread, or advice on rust removal. It was some chemical process, electrolysis I believe, but not sure.
Any help would be most appreciated.
11/1/2010 6:42:14 PM EDT
[#1]
I use 3 parts automatic transmission fluid to 1 part acetone, a recipe I learned from a gunsmith. I'm not so sure the acetone is needed, as the two fluids don't mix together very well, and the acetone just flashes off after awhile. Anyway, get one of those stainless steel kitchen scrub pads and go to town scrubbing after dipping the pad in the ATF mix. Wear gloves and work over a pan or something to catch the drips. I have found that this will not remove the patina on old firearms, just the rust. Doesn't seem to hurt the bluing on guns in better condition, either. Electrolysis sounds like a great idea, too, but I'll let someone who knows more about that than I do respond to that subject.
11/2/2010 4:30:19 AM EDT
[#2]
Even after you have removed the rust you are leaving pitting behind. So, I don't see how something like this would not need to be re-worked and re-blued to make look right.
11/2/2010 5:13:36 AM EDT
[#3]
http://www.evapo-rust.com/

it works
11/2/2010 5:37:01 AM EDT
[#4]
http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=62728

My post is on page 7 of this thread.  I had fantastic results with the Brazilian Mausers.  The plastic container is the biggest expense for rifles.  With a revolver that shouldn't be a problem.

The rifles "flash-rusted" immediately upon removal from the tank.  I mean, within minutes.  I just put them back into the tank for 30 minutes or so, then was ready with CLP when I took them back out again.

There will be black dust/sludge on the parts that are cleaned, it just wipes off.  If I remember right, I used brakecleaner after removal from the tank and then CLP.

I was skeptical, but it was very easy and fast.  I think that I left mine in for 6 hours or so, but no scrubbing or damaging the bluing.

Yes, the metal was pitted on some of mine, but they are 100 years old, so I am not complaining with the price that I paid.
11/2/2010 7:00:44 AM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Even after you have removed the rust you are leaving pitting behind. So, I don't see how something like this would not need to be re-worked and re-blued to make look right.


That is comming later down the road, for now, we are just wanting to get it cleaned off to see where it stands condition wise
11/2/2010 7:01:29 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=62728

My post is on page 7 of this thread.  I had fantastic results with the Brazilian Mausers.  The plastic container is the biggest expense for rifles.  With a revolver that shouldn't be a problem.

The rifles "flash-rusted" immediately upon removal from the tank.  I mean, within minutes.  I just put them back into the tank for 30 minutes or so, then was ready with CLP when I took them back out again.

There will be black dust/sludge on the parts that are cleaned, it just wipes off.  If I remember right, I used brakecleaner after removal from the tank and then CLP.

I was skeptical, but it was very easy and fast.  I think that I left mine in for 6 hours or so, but no scrubbing or damaging the bluing.

Yes, the metal was pitted on some of mine, but they are 100 years old, so I am not complaining with the price that I paid.


This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you for the link, pretty cool to see all of those old warriors cleaned up that well and looking like new again
11/3/2010 4:25:52 AM EDT
[#7]


While it sounds like this product does a great job with rust and leaving un-rusted metal alone, their claim of "even firearms to like-new condition" to me is entirely misleading. Just because you have taken the rust off of metal does not restore anything to like new condition when pitting is left behind.
11/3/2010 5:11:15 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:


While it sounds like this product does a great job with rust and leaving un-rusted metal alone, their claim of "even firearms to like-new condition" to me is entirely misleading. Just because you have taken the rust off of metal does not restore anything to like new condition when pitting is left behind.


The rust will be gone, but of course it cant "fill in" whats lost of the metal

11/3/2010 6:12:59 AM EDT
[#9]
looks like the same results that Jasco Prep and Prime gives.  phosphoric acid
11/3/2010 3:29:36 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Quoted:


While it sounds like this product does a great job with rust and leaving un-rusted metal alone, their claim of "even firearms to like-new condition" to me is entirely misleading. Just because you have taken the rust off of metal does not restore anything to like new condition when pitting is left behind.


The rust will be gone, but of course it cant "fill in" whats lost of the metal
http://www.adcofirearms.com/junkpics/akapart-4.jpg
http://www.adcofirearms.com/junkpics/akapart-a.jpg


I understand what you are saying, it's just hilarious to see them claiming it will bring firearms back to like-new condition. Kinda like saying candy bars are great for weight loss
11/3/2010 4:03:16 PM EDT
[#11]
The products like Evapo-Rust will strip the blueing right off with the rust IIRC. I used something similar on a CMP stripped Garand receiver that had been blued at some point in its life. Down to bare metal all over now. On a receiver that had been parked and had a little rust here and there it worked like a champ.
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