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Posted: 8/17/2010 6:45:58 AM EDT
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What can yall tell me about them and the markings that should normally be on them?
A buddy just picked one up and I am wanting to gather as much information for him as I can. Thanks 
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What can yall tell me about them and the markings that should normally be on them? A buddy just picked one up and I am wanting to gather as much information for him as I can. Thanks First and foremost, ensure that the revolver has the correct proof marks on the rear of the cylinder and that the serial number on the cylinder is intact (all the numbers are completely there). Some very stupid people converted Mark I and Mark II revolvers into .45 ACP when that craze was going on back in the day - these revolvers are not even proofed for smokeless powder (much less .45ACP) and firing them with anything other than absolutely anemic handloads is quite dangerous. -Mark |
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What can yall tell me about them and the markings that should normally be on them? A buddy just picked one up and I am wanting to gather as much information for him as I can. Thanks First and foremost, ensure that the revolver has the correct proof marks on the rear of the cylinder and that the serial number on the cylinder is intact (all the numbers are completely there). Some very stupid people converted Mark I and Mark II revolvers into .45 ACP when that craze was going on back in the day - these revolvers are not even proofed for smokeless powder (much less .45ACP) and firing them with anything other than absolutely anemic handloads is quite dangerous. -Mark Dont have it with me right now but I was looking it over last night, and I remember that the serial on the cylinder is intact and matches the rest of the fire arm. What proof marks would I be looking for? There were a metric shit ton on this thing, damn Brits 
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What can yall tell me about them and the markings that should normally be on them? A buddy just picked one up and I am wanting to gather as much information for him as I can. Thanks First and foremost, ensure that the revolver has the correct proof marks on the rear of the cylinder and that the serial number on the cylinder is intact (all the numbers are completely there). Some very stupid people converted Mark I and Mark II revolvers into .45 ACP when that craze was going on back in the day - these revolvers are not even proofed for smokeless powder (much less .45ACP) and firing them with anything other than absolutely anemic handloads is quite dangerous. -Mark Dont have it with me right now but I was looking it over last night, and I remember that the serial on the cylinder is intact and matches the rest of the fire arm. What proof marks would I be looking for? There were a metric shit ton on this thing, damn Brits Look for a small crown over numbers or letters. These are standard British proof marks. You will likely see them in multiple places. You may also see the marking "WD", which indicates the pistol was made for the British government. Don't be surprised if the WD marks aren't there - Officers of the day were required to purchase their pistols privately and such a purchased Webley would obviously not be the property of the government! Also look on the pistol's backstrap - you may find unit markings there. Please note that current commercial production .455 is loaded to Mk. II (Cordite) specifications and would not be a safe load for this pistol. You will need to load .455 black powder cartridges. -Mark |
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What can yall tell me about them and the markings that should normally be on them? A buddy just picked one up and I am wanting to gather as much information for him as I can. Thanks First and foremost, ensure that the revolver has the correct proof marks on the rear of the cylinder and that the serial number on the cylinder is intact (all the numbers are completely there). Some very stupid people converted Mark I and Mark II revolvers into .45 ACP when that craze was going on back in the day - these revolvers are not even proofed for smokeless powder (much less .45ACP) and firing them with anything other than absolutely anemic handloads is quite dangerous. -Mark Dont have it with me right now but I was looking it over last night, and I remember that the serial on the cylinder is intact and matches the rest of the fire arm. What proof marks would I be looking for? There were a metric shit ton on this thing, damn Brits Look for a small crown over numbers or letters. These are standard British proof marks. You will likely see them in multiple places. You may also see the marking "WD", which indicates the pistol was made for the British government. Don't be surprised if the WD marks aren't there - Officers of the day were required to purchase their pistols privately and such a purchased Webley would obviously not be the property of the government! Also look on the pistol's backstrap - you may find unit markings there. Please note that current commercial production .455 is loaded to Mk. II (Cordite) specifications and would not be a safe load for this pistol. You will need to load .455 black powder cartridges. -Mark Is there anyone that loads black powder 455, old western scrounger maybe? Or is it all loaded to cordite specifications? And there were crowns, but they looked as if they had crossed keys under them, is this a normal proof? |
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Is there anyone that loads black powder 455, old western scrounger maybe? Or is it all loaded to cordite specifications? And there were crowns, but they looked as if they had crossed keys under them, is this a normal proof? That I know of, no. It's a niche item. Gad's may be able to make some up for you if you ask; I know they do offer .455. Those are crossed pennants. Yes, that's normal as well. -Mark |
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One last question, looking through O_P's website, he states its best to clean revolvers from the muzzle, however on top breaks such as this Webley, would it make more sense to clean it from the chamber end? Or is the muzzle the way to go? I clean my top-break Enfield from the chamber end, but I've become accustomed to doing that with all of my firearms as I use an Otis (pull through) cleaning kit. -Mark |
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