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Quoted: It looks like your info is correct, I copied this from the Mauser 98K website; 660 48 505n 130492 1940 Steyr-Daimler-Puch AG, Steyr here's the address: http://mauser98k.internetdsl.pl/kodyen.html Thanks for the link. There seems to be a large amount of info there. I have a lot of research to do. This thing is covered with German markings. All the numbers match so I assume it was never rebuilt. |
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Every number I have found on it matches even on the screws. It seems like the stock has been refinished because it looks so good but all of the markings in the wood are so clear I am not sure if it is original or not. I don't have any papers on it and the original owner is dead. He served in WWII an could have very well brought it back. They are in laws and the only family members that are still alive don't know or care where it came from. They were happy to get rid of it. |
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bolt numbers are legit. thats how that rifle originally left the factory ( stampings wise ) its common to find these rifles where some asshole took a mis-match rifle and restamped new numbers to make it " Matching" for more $$$
stock looks ok, i cant ever tell by pics if they have been sanded but it looks great, shows alot of the red glue laminate- nice color. how is the bore condition? being early war, and a 660 code, you have a more rare rifle than say a DOT or DOU '44 code. you have just been given a 1200-1500 dollar gift if the stock isnt sanded to hell, but i dont think it is. the markings are too crisp. looks like the front sight is grooved for the sight hood. an original is about $30-35 dollars, dont buy a crappy repro hood. its missing the cleaning rod, it could take the 10" rod or the 12" rod- they changed the length early in the war. an original rod, again is in the $30-40 range. the engraving on the floor plate is an issue- definitely not the German armorer since the numbers on the floor plate match the rest of the rifle, possibly a "Rack" number / designation for german post- or something the Vet did when he brought it back. you have a VERY expensive gift. EDIT- the sling alone is worth $100 + and no need to blur out the serial number- they did the same S.N. numerous times, just changed it every 10,000 rifles by adding a letter suffix to it. |
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Quoted: bolt numbers are legit. thats how that rifle originally left the factory ( stampings wise ) its common to find these rifles where some asshole took a mis-match rifle and restamped new numbers to make it " Matching" for more $$$ stock looks ok, i cant ever tell by pics if they have been sanded but it looks great, shows alot of the red glue laminate- nice color. how is the bore condition? being early war, and a 660 code, you have a more rare rifle than say a DOT or DOU '44 code. you have just been given a 1200-1500 dollar gift if the stock isnt sanded to hell, but i dont think it is. the markings are too crisp. looks like the front sight is grooved for the sight hood. an original is about $30-35 dollars, dont buy a crappy repro hood. its missing the cleaning rod, it could take the 10" rod or the 12" rod- they changed the length early in the war. an original rod, again is in the $30-40 range. the engraving on the floor plate is an issue- definitely not the German armorer since the numbers on the floor plate match the rest of the rifle, possibly a "Rack" number / designation for german post- or something the Vet did when he brought it back. you have a VERY expensive gift. EDIT- the sling alone is worth $100 + and no need to blur out the serial number- they did the same S.N. numerous times, just changed it every 10,000 rifles by adding a letter suffix to it. The stock does not appear to have been sanded to me. The bore looks good. I will have to check the front sight tomorrow. Can I check the cleaning rod length with a dowel rod? Do you have a good source for original parts? I have seen some at IMA while searching for info. Thanks for the information. |
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a dowel rod helps for checking proper length of cleaning rod. it can be very hit or miss, some factories didnt switch rod lengths at the same time or until old parts ran out etc
a repro hood will be half as thick as a real one... a real one takes a serious pair of snap ring pliers to put on. so youll know the difference just by thickness and tension. instant message on the way- |
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