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Posted: 10/12/2016 8:08:07 AM EDT
| I need a pretty wide thread spacer for my factory threaded 10/22 for use with my surefire ryder 22s. My can came with on but its to short and I ordered the silencerco one for $17 on ebay and it still isn't long enough. I can double them up but them my can doesn't have much room to thread on. WTF was ruger thinking making the threads so long? |
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The old style Ruger 10/22 threads were .6" long, like the AR rifle. The newer 10/22's use pistol length threads that are .4" long.
I have one of the early threaded 10/22 TD models, and use a single SilencerCo spacer to take up the .2" difference. SilencerCo 1/2x28 Spacer How long are the threads on your barrel? Have you tried putting your Ryder on a different gun to see if it works? Bob S. |
| Agree with above, you should only need one SilencerCo spacer unless you got some kind of factory freak barrel with extra long threads. If you can measure, the threads on older Ruger barrels should be 0.6" long from the muzzle to the shoulder. Any longer than that you got a unique but messed up barrel from the factory. As a side note, all of the current rimfire barrels I've seen from Ruger are being threaded the correct 0.4" long probably due to them releasing their own suppressor. |
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If I bottom the spacer out the can will bottom out before it gets to the spacer. On my 15/22 it works fine, the ruger threads are longer than an AR's threads.
Since the silencerco spacer is threaded I guess I can just screw it to were I want it then tighten down the can. |
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Quoted:
If I bottom the spacer out the can will bottom out before it gets to the spacer. On my 15/22 it works fine, the ruger threads are longer than an AR's threads. Since the silencerco spacer is threaded I guess I can just screw it to were I want it then tighten down the can. Please measure your threads - it should be 6/10th of an inch (.6"). If that is the case, and you have the spacer tightened against the shoulder of the barrel, the suppressor *SHOULD* fit. I would not leave the spacer loose and tighten the can down - it will come loose when fired and might cause a problem. Either your barrel or the suppressor are out of spec (maybe both) - find out which and have it repaired. Bob S. |
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Quoted:
Please measure your threads - it should be 6/10th of an inch (.6"). If that is the case, and you have the spacer tightened against the shoulder of the barrel, the suppressor *SHOULD* fit. I would not leave the spacer loose and tighten the can down - it will come loose when fired and might cause a problem. Either your barrel or the suppressor are out of spec (maybe both) - find out which and have it repaired. Bob S. Quoted:
Quoted:
If I bottom the spacer out the can will bottom out before it gets to the spacer. On my 15/22 it works fine, the ruger threads are longer than an AR's threads. Since the silencerco spacer is threaded I guess I can just screw it to were I want it then tighten down the can. Please measure your threads - it should be 6/10th of an inch (.6"). If that is the case, and you have the spacer tightened against the shoulder of the barrel, the suppressor *SHOULD* fit. I would not leave the spacer loose and tighten the can down - it will come loose when fired and might cause a problem. Either your barrel or the suppressor are out of spec (maybe both) - find out which and have it repaired. Bob S. The can works fine on an M&P 15/22 with a spacer and works fine on a M&P22c without a spacer, it has to be the barrel. |
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Ruger customer service is basically saying there is nothing they can do about it...
::edit:: Called back and talked to someone else and they are sending me a new barrel. He said I have an older gun with an older style thread . He never even asked if I could install it lol.
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| Well that's great news! Based on the comparison picture your Ruger barrel is out of spec even for centerfire thread specs. When it is delivered, let us know if they sent you a barrel with the correct rimfire 0.4" threads (no spacer needed) or the incorrect centerfire 0.6" threads (still needs to use a spacer). |
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Quoted:
Dammit Ruger... at first I was super excited and thought it was perfect but it STILL doesn't bottom all the way down. But now the threads are to short to use a spacer unless I can find a very small one. Can you show pics of your can on the barrel (no spacer)? I'll try and take a pic of mine later tonight also... Bob S. |
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Quoted:
[URL=http://s1039.photobucket.com/user/sowards27/media/BE000E74-D6EF-4330-B277-C3DF62AE92C0_zpsssmrfzgw.jpg.html]http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a472/sowards27/BE000E74-D6EF-4330-B277-C3DF62AE92C0_zpsssmrfzgw.jpg[/URL Dammit Ruger... at first I was super excited and thought it was perfect but it STILL doesn't bottom all the way down. But now the threads are to short to use a spacer unless I can find a very small one. Well, you can always get a 1/2 indexing shim set or 1/2 crush washer if the spacing on the new barrel isn't to significant. That's what I use. |
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Quoted:
Well, you can always get a 1/2 indexing shim set or 1/2 crush washer if the spacing on the new barrel isn't to significant. That's what I use. Quoted:
Quoted:
[URL=http://s1039.photobucket.com/user/sowards27/media/BE000E74-D6EF-4330-B277-C3DF62AE92C0_zpsssmrfzgw.jpg.html]http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a472/sowards27/BE000E74-D6EF-4330-B277-C3DF62AE92C0_zpsssmrfzgw.jpg[/URL Dammit Ruger... at first I was super excited and thought it was perfect but it STILL doesn't bottom all the way down. But now the threads are to short to use a spacer unless I can find a very small one. Well, you can always get a 1/2 indexing shim set or 1/2 crush washer if the spacing on the new barrel isn't to significant. That's what I use. Surefire replied to my email and said this is ok. He said if the gap was large he'd use a spacer, but why? What's the difference between it bottoming out with a tiny gap or a large one? |
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Something is still odd. The new Ruger barrel looks fine and I assume the MP barrel is to spec as well. I don't have my Ryder out of jail yet but is there any possible way it isn't assembled properly?
If you think it is put together correctly, take the can apart and just install the threaded end cap onto the barrel threads. This will allow you to see what is going on at the muzzle end. It looks like there is a step inside the can that the muzzle may be hitting, essentially making the can index on the muzzle and not the shoulder. |
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. He never even asked if I could install it lol.


