Armory Sponsor
Posted: 6/3/2008 5:46:09 PM EDT
| I am having a small issue with my Ruger SS 10/22. Seems that after about 10 shots the trigger gets struck in a halfway position and does not come totally forward for a repeat shot. The rifle cycles okay, so it is not the ammo. In order to fire a repeat shot, I have to push the trigger forward a bit with my finger, which then enables me to fire a second shot. This is weird, but cleaning and lubing the plunger and plunger spring does not solve the problem. I am wondering if the plunger spring needs to be changed. I'd rather not send it back to the factory if I can help it. Any 10/22 brain surgeons out there have any good ideas on a quick fix? |
|
You are dealing with a design flaw in the 10/22 that has plagued people who are serious about tuning the stock triggers to top level performance. When you pull the trigger, the disconnector is hooked over the sear, which pivots it down and out of the notch on the bottom of the hammer. Once the hammer swings up and smacks the FP, the bolt comes back, pushing the hammer back as well. The tabs on the back of the hammer hit the top of the disconnector and cause it to release the sear and the spring between the disconnector and sear is the driving force that causes the sear to pop up against the bottom of the hammer, which in turn, catches the hammer on its forward travel and stops it from hitting the FP again. The when you release the trigger, the disconnector has to slide down the end of the sear, and snap over that "tab" on the sear to reset the trigger to again pull on the sear. The defect is in the fact that the sear "tab" has a heavy angle on it that the disconnector must ride against to snap over the end. The farther the disconnector rides down this angle, the more the disconnector is cocked against the spring that is pushing the sear and disconnector away from each other.  This angle can be polished to give a smoother sliding surface for the disconnector.  The radius in the picture and the end of the sear "tab" can be very lightly polished with very careful use of a dremel and cratex (rubber impregnated with grit). Slow speed and a light touch goes very quickly. The real solution is to produce a true radius on this angle so that the disconnector doesn't have to "cock" itself while trying to get over that sear tab. If you assemble the trigger, disconnector, disconnector spring, and sear togeather outside the trigger group, you can push down on the disconnector, then push down very slowly on the top of the sear. While you are pushing down on it, you will notice the top of the disconnector has to drop down against the disconnector spring while the hook rides on the sear tab before it finally snaps over the end of it. The ideal situation is for you to re profile this slightly so that the sear tab is actually a true radius so the disconnector doesn't move at all while it is riding down the sear tab. This would require a radius on the bottom half (and only the bottom half) of the sear tab that is centered on the pin hole in the sear. I know this is alot to process, but I would start with some mild polishing, and go from there. Take the trigger and its parts out and assemble them outside of the trigger group and get to know how they work. This will give you confidence to go farther with a little guidence from the folks here and at Rimfirecentral. Skeeters trigger kits with torsion springs kick the crap out of anything Volquartsen has to offer. They are available if you ask around at rimfirecentral. |
Armory Sponsor