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Confirmed, Crossfire straps work with Alice frames. Specifically this is a set of DG3 straps. Here it is on a Frontier Resolve. If it fits on this, it should fit on most frames. I'll be trying a DEI frame next, then a stock alice frame. But eyeballing the DEI frame, it should have zero problem. The ALICE frame shouldn't be a problem either, but it doesn't have specific slots to attach to, so I'll have to see if it slips around or not on the frame. Which is fixable if you had to. 
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Originally Posted By cap6888: Lets see if I can get my pics right the first time..... OK. After 30 hours of haphazard sewing, I am done with my second pack. Although I only took a short walk up and down the block with it due to the horrifically cold weather, the DEI Mountaineering frame carries VERY comfortably and better than my first pack. Pack suspension is definitely a tricky beast. Using a commercial fame set is definitely easier. But digress..... The pack is made of 1000D nylon with a cheap nylon ripstop material for the liner. The storm collar is pack cloth nylon. It is 25 inches tall, 15 inches wide, and 9 inched deep (3375 cubic inches or 55 liters). The storm collar is 12 inches tall, so there is some extra storage in there. I used a roll top type closure on the storm flap for that reason. I have buckles on the sides of the pack to secure the top down, or it can just be rolled and buckled conventionally. I'll try to hit the high points here, and hopefully order them correctly to correspond with the pictures below. It is very similar in size to my PLCE Short Back Bergen. The Bergen is not filled all the way and my pack is stuffed almost all the way up with Mark 1 Mod 0 throw pillows. There is a large slip pocket on the front with a small strip of velcro to fasten it. I sized the pockets on the side to fit 2 quart canteens and their pouches. That way if I want to just grab a canteen to take it to a water point, or to supplement me when I leave the pack its easy enough to do. There is a compression strap on there, but it isn't needed as snug as the pouch is. There is also a top strap for over engineering. The frame set came with a grab handle, but it was just a simple, single piece of webbing. I prefer the grab handles I make with tubular webbing and fuel line. These make for a much more stout handle. I used these same handle for the sides to help put the pack on over the head. I added a zipper to the back to access the pack if need be. Totally stole this idea from Marnsdorff. Luckily I hadn't gotten that far when I saw the addition he made to his packs. I used an old riot baton to show the sleeves on the sides. Nothing fancy, but if I put something long enough, I can rest it in the pouch on the bottom. Or if need be, a larger piece of equipment like a tripod, can just be put in the pouch and secured with the compression straps. The strap in the bottom pouch is attached via a Slik Clip on one small piece of PALS inside. The top of the sleeves have a row of PALS just below the top. You can see how I attached the buckles for the roll top here. All of this extra PALS, as well as the rows inside the pack are made of 3/4 inch webbing. I made small retention straps to secure it to the pack frame similar to the "yib yab" tabs the FILBE uses. I have rows of PALS on the two sides and back of the interior pack just below the zipper. For demonstraion, I have some Tuff Possum Gear pouches that I am hanging through the interior webbing with a Duraflex Molle Tee Mount. On the interior of the front, I made a small pocket out of a mesh fabric I had on hand (should have made it wider though). Lastly, I made it adaptable to put the Crossfire Daypack lid I was gifted by our very own Diz. I believe this one is an early prototype as the features are a little different from the current production. It is definitely over stuffed because I actually have the lower compartment stuffed with a green bag from a MSS and the top pocket filled with a woobie. The one major problem I ran into with my Singer home model sewing machine is that the interior seams are too thick for me to run binding tape on them. Its not the end of the world, but its the one finishing touch that would have been nice to do. I also ran into some uneven sewing when sewing on the storm collar. Its just hard to maneuver that large pack with the machine. A bit ugly, but still serviceable. I have to give a shout out to @Diz and @Marnsdorff for their help, suggestions, and support for my projects. https://i.postimg.cc/Y02MLW76/IMG_0359.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/Y02MLW76/IMG_0359.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/QCNhKTDH/IMG_0360.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/QCNhKTDH/IMG_0360.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/RFLv0TkM/IMG_0362.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/RFLv0TkM/IMG_0362.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/0j5PKwv0/IMG_0363.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/0j5PKwv0/IMG_0363.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Z5Xbsn8s/IMG_0365.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/Z5Xbsn8s/IMG_0365.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Z5WYLpd6/IMG_0366.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/Z5WYLpd6/IMG_0366.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/ncchC6cx/IMG_0373.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/ncchC6cx/IMG_0373.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/mZSrZb40/IMG_0374.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/mZSrZb40/IMG_0374.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/qMbMnjz2/IMG_0369.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/qMbMnjz2/IMG_0369.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/PfMqftH2/IMG_0370.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/PfMqftH2/IMG_0370.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/jddSLGq1/IMG_0372.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/jddSLGq1/IMG_0372.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Yqnqgbhg/IMG_0367.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/Yqnqgbhg/IMG_0367.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/MKPKRdvn/IMG_0368.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/MKPKRdvn/IMG_0368.jpg Bro, that looks awesome! You can see how much SIGNIFICANTLY your sewing is better than on your first pack. Solid improvement on work, and your pack looks good overall - you can see how you had much better visions as to what you wanted and the little details you added. This is the benefit of doing a second pack. Your third one is going to be even better!  Yea, that DEI frame and strap set is great, especially for the money, and especially if the frame height fits you right. SIGNIFICANT improvement over the stock straps and belt. Start looking around locally for a use industrial machine. Even a simple, older and well used machine - if it's been kept in good working condition - will be a solid upgrade and let you do those heavier seams. If you take your time and aren't picky, you can probably get one for a few hundred dollars. One of the old Singer copies maybe. And they hold their value relatively well. But yea. It feels good to be wearing a pack that YOU designed and made, eh? It's one of the extra bonus benefits of getting into making your own gear. Sure, you put a ton of hours into it and might have been cheaper (per hour) to pay for a pack someone else made, but you don't get that pride and feeling of accomplishment when you look at and hold and wear and use your gear. Plus if you make a recreational hobby (instead of a business like I ended up doing) then it's almost free gear - the cost of materials. It's FAR better use of your time than sitting there watching TV. It bothers some people watching a movie with me - I can't just sit there and watch a movie or TV. I have to be doing SOMETHING. At the least, sitting on the floor stretching (another great use of TV and movie time. Don't forget to stretch guys, especially as you are getting older) Thumbs up on the pack Bro. What's the next project? |
A quick example of how you may expand the capacity of your new medium ALICE with common pouches: " /> " /> " />Marns is right, the USGI waist pack fits very nicely above the 3 built-in pouches, and the 4th column of webbing added to the side PALS fields allows you to mount USGI sustainment pouches with minimal shrinkage (they are 5-column mounting). |
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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: A quick example of how you may expand the capacity of your new medium ALICE with common pouches: https://i.imgur.com/QwrF3cQ.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/QwrF3cQ.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/wcUdFrG.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/wcUdFrG.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/ZegloAq.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/ZegloAq.jpeg Marns is right, the USGI waist pack fits very nicely above the 3 built-in pouches, and the 4th column of webbing added to the side PALS fields allows you to mount USGI sustainment pouches with minimal shrinkage (they are 5-column mounting). Yup. The FILBE sustainment pouches work on the sides there too. You can also put SAW pouches on the sides, on the bottom, with 2 x of the older style MOLLE Canteen pouches above each of the SAW pouches. Or other utility pouches. That's why I stretched it out to 4 x columns of MOLLE instead of just 3 that would normally fit. It was worth it for the pouches you can use. Modding a Medium ALICE like that gives you a pretty significant bump in capacity. And if you run your sleep system under the pack (you have plenty of room with most of the ALICE frames) then you have a pretty solid pack, capacity wise. That you can strip down to a regular patrol sized pack. Also, those woodland pouches look nice on that Ranger Green pack. |
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What common pouches, cheap pouches would fit well sitting on top of the pack, under the lid, if you wanted to expand capacity upwards? That's part of the reason I put the floating lid on there. So you can bump of capacity upwards too. Obviously you don't want to go TOO tall, for stability reasons. I think the surplus sleep carrier pouch is a little large. The sustainment pouches (like you have on there) aren't tall enough. I'm thinking about running a USGI MOLLE buttpack (like the on you have on there) under the lid normally, carrying my rain gear. So that I can easily take it off and attach it to my belt kit on top of the buttpack if I wanted to ditch the pack and go lighter weight. |
Mine arrived a day or two or ago - I cannot be sure because it was apparently tossed and ended up in the bushes NEXT to my front porch...LOL.  Now if I can only find a tutorial on how to attach this to a DEI frame ...in my defense its been a LOOOONG time since I have had to attach a pack to the frame, and the DEI has ALOT more buckles, straps, and attachment points than the original frame. |
You got gun law problems, I feel bad for you son. I got 99 problems but a ban ain't one. -Sylvan
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Originally Posted By barrysuperhawk: Mine arrived a day or two or ago - I cannot be sure because it was apparently tossed and ended up in the bushes NEXT to my front porch...LOL. Now if I can only find a tutorial on how to attach this to a DEI frame ...in my defense its been a LOOOONG time since I have had to attach a pack to the frame, and the DEI has ALOT more buckles, straps, and attachment points than the original frame. Which straps and belt do you have? The bottom corner straps (the buckle and loose strap on the bottom corners) can attach to a few different locations - it's kinda personal preference - but I attach mine here:  The loose straps on the sides / middle of the pack attach to the 'wings' on the DEI pack. There is a triglide in the lid zipper pocket to attach it. This is how I attach mine, but there are other ways to do it. This isn't really a load bearing location, it's more to stabilize the pack from swaying and such. This is also how I thread it onto the Frontier Resolve frame btw.  This pack is on the frame with a set of the DEI Mountaineering straps and belt. This is where you want to tie in the 'load lifters' on that strap set. (or the main straps webbing if you don't have load lifters - IE, oldschool ALICE straps or the regular Tactical Tailor Super Straps, etc.) If you have the load lifting type, it's slightly more complicated. You put the pack on the frame first, without the load lifters attached. With the straps / back padding section OUTSIDE of the pack's padded sleeve. Then you have to slip the straps in and through the slots on the top of the frame - it's a little awkward to do. If it's a regular set of straps, you can put the straps on FIRST, and not attach them to the frame (or unhook the buckle if it has a buckle / quick disconnect) and slide the pack onto the frame, with the straps coming out the top opening. Then connect to the frame down on the bottom corners.   
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: What common pouches, cheap pouches would fit well sitting on top of the pack, under the lid, if you wanted to expand capacity upwards? That's part of the reason I put the floating lid on there. So you can bump of capacity upwards too. Obviously you don't want to go TOO tall, for stability reasons. I think the surplus sleep carrier pouch is a little large. The sustainment pouches (like you have on there) aren't tall enough. I'm thinking about running a USGI MOLLE buttpack (like the on you have on there) under the lid normally, carrying my rain gear. So that I can easily take it off and attach it to my belt kit on top of the buttpack if I wanted to ditch the pack and go lighter weight. You mean just loose pouches/bags that are retained loose under the lid? |
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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: You mean just loose pouches/bags that are retained loose under the lid? Yes, a loose pouch / bag that is the right size / thickness that is cheap and easy to obtain that would work well in that role. Though I'm also thinking about how to run a retaining strap with buckle up on each of the sides in order to stabilize it and stop it from shifting around. For a dedicated 'extension' pouch. I'm thinking about maybe making the sleep system pouch I'm going to make be double-duty, and let you run a 2nd one up on top as an extension upwards. It should be about the right size and shape. |
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: Yes, a loose pouch / bag that is the right size / thickness that is cheap and easy to obtain that would work well in that role. Though I'm also thinking about how to run a retaining strap with buckle up on each of the sides in order to stabilize it and stop it from shifting around. For a dedicated 'extension' pouch. I'm thinking about maybe making the sleep system pouch I'm going to make be double-duty, and let you run a 2nd one up on top as an extension upwards. It should be about the right size and shape. I'll have to think on it. I've seen a lot of guys carry their hydration bladder pack under the lid. |
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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: I'll have to think on it. I've seen a lot of guys carry their hydration bladder pack under the lid. Yea, that's a possibility. Same with a minimalist assault pack (Like the Hill People Gear Tarahumara sized packs) I'd probably end up throwing my Crossfire daypack lid on it though, if it was for really serious use. That has a sleeve in it for a 2 liter water bladder. Combined with the gallon of water on the sides of the pack in bottles, plus if I'm wearing belt kit, whatever I have in my belt kit (2 more liters) gives me plenty of water carrying capability. I'm thinking an extension pouch for things like extra cold weather clothing or more rations or whatever. Stuff you want to carry that goes above and beyond your regular gear + sleep system + food and water. |
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: Yea, that's a possibility. Same with a minimalist assault pack (Like the Hill People Gear Tarahumara sized packs) I'd probably end up throwing my Crossfire daypack lid on it though, if it was for really serious use. That has a sleeve in it for a 2 liter water bladder. Combined with the gallon of water on the sides of the pack in bottles, plus if I'm wearing belt kit, whatever I have in my belt kit (2 more liters) gives me plenty of water carrying capability. I'm thinking an extension pouch for things like extra cold weather clothing or more rations or whatever. Stuff you want to carry that goes above and beyond your regular gear + sleep system + food and water. I would think any old appropriately-sized dry bag or compression sack would be the ticket. |
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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: I would think any old appropriately-sized dry bag or compression sack would be the ticket. Yea, that's an obvious option. The problem with those are the shape - they end up being round and that makes it kinda unstable up there. I wish someone had a flatish dry bag for this kind of purpose. |
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Originally Posted By Mountaineer82: I got thier jungle ALICE copy. It is very nice with all the new pockets and zippered access. The drain holes are nice and they’ve added mesh to help thing dry out faster which I think might be a negative in the life of the pack. The LRR Jungle? It lists the main pocket as being 55Liters, which is ALMOST the same size as a large alice. I wouldn't think it'd be that much smaller. I was actually looking at them, they looked pretty decent. Was looking to get some ideas for when I make a couple large ALICE packs for myself. And yea, I dislike the idea of mesh on non-replaceable parts of packs and such. MOLLE pouches? Sure. Sewn on pouches? Nah. Though having looked at the pictures closely, I think even if those fail, I think the pocket will still hold together, you'll just have a little hole in the bottom corner. At least they didn't make the whole bottom out of mesh. |
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Originally Posted By MrJonesandMe: Does the DEI mountaineering pad set work on a standard Alice frame? I do not think so. From looking at the pictures. The surplus MOLLE II belt is pretty solid for the money. And that Crossfire set of straps I posted above will PROBABLY work. I really should pull out my surplus frame and see if it fits right. But looking at it, it should fit. The Crossfire shoulder straps are more comfortable than the DEI ones by just a touch. Combined with a MOLLE II belt or some other belt, it should be pretty legit combo. |
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Originally Posted By MrJonesandMe: Does the DEI mountaineering pad set work on a standard Alice frame? I don’t think you can buy just the pads alone. At least not straight deform DEI. And I haven’t seen them being sold elsewhere. But for $200 with the frame it’s a great deal. |
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https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1098?itemId=522018&attrValue_0=Orange&sku=1000211084&pla1=0&qs=3156267&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20151164823&gbraid=0AAAAADoqq1IhzQI2wOuPHtKZw45dnE0-Q&gclid=CjwKCAiAqKbMBhBmEiwAZ3UboKBmQv0dgTnJuKtBDD_eiJmP-f0vjSWXZUY1QEP0hjqMPSNID_LqCBoC_rEQAvD_BwE&SN=findability_search_preview_03&SS=A&SN2=findability_trending_searches_04&SS2=A&SN3=MobilePLA_03&SS3=B&noaa_region=northeast&originalProduct=129150 Something like this where is it’s small enough to be rolled up and stored in/behind one of the pockets |
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Originally Posted By cap6888: I don’t think you can buy just the pads alone. At least not straight deform DEI. And I haven’t seen them being sold elsewhere. But for $200 with the frame it’s a great deal. I think you can, but you have to call or email them. The guy I talked to was pretty cool and answered alot of questions, was willing to work with you. But yea, for the money, that pad set that comes with the frame is a really good deal. Considering that the frame alone costs $75 shipped, you're only paying $125 for the straps and belt. Sure, you can get a set of MOLLE 2 straps and belt for about half that - and they are nice. But the DEI set is a good bit better and worth the money unless you are on a hardcore budget. You CAN shop around over time and piece together other straps and belts - the Crossfire DG3 straps they have listed on ebay are a really good deal for instance. I like them better than the DEI straps. Getting one of those and a decent belt would probably be cheaper or the same than the DEI set and better. But Crossfire only has a few of them for sale. (When they have a warranty issue, they part out one of their packs for the parts. It's actually cheaper to do that than to order spare parts, at the scale they work at. So they have a few bits and pieces for sale on occasion.) For an 'off the shelf' item, the DEI set is the easiest one to get and a good deal overall (go price out Tactical Tailor frame, straps and belt for comparison (the 'gold standard' of ALICE stuff) - a comparable straps and belt + frame go for over $500 and all of them are backordered (For good reason, they are really good. If you have the extra $$$$, they are a serious option) Almost everyone who is posting on here, btw, has a slightly different setup with their ALICE packs. Go back and look at the various pictures people have people have posted of their setup. Or post some if you haven't posted one yet. There are a TON of options out there, it's a pretty personal setup in the end. They all fit slightly differently, and each person is built different. |
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Originally Posted By roguetrader: https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1098?itemId=522018&attrValue_0=Orange&sku=1000211084&pla1=0&qs=3156267&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20151164823&gbraid=0AAAAADoqq1IhzQI2wOuPHtKZw45dnE0-Q&gclid=CjwKCAiAqKbMBhBmEiwAZ3UboKBmQv0dgTnJuKtBDD_eiJmP-f0vjSWXZUY1QEP0hjqMPSNID_LqCBoC_rEQAvD_BwE&SN=findability_search_preview_03&SS=A&SN2=findability_trending_searches_04&SS2=A&SN3=MobilePLA_03&SS3=B&noaa_region=northeast&originalProduct=129150 Something like this where is it’s small enough to be rolled up and stored in/behind one of the pockets Reminds of of the HPG Tarahumara. I use one as a minimalist 'assault pack' - mostly to carry water (Canteens and sometimes a bladder) plus some munchies. They work well under the lid. |
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Originally Posted By roguetrader: The one thing I miss from USGI Alice is the outer pocket snaps have a loop that the snaps go through. That’s where I run the tightening strap to keep it in location on the GI one. I was thinking about that when messing with my pack the other day. I'm going to add a loop of webbing or something I think on future packs on the pockets for that reason. |
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Originally Posted By cap6888: As much as I like the Surmount type buckles you used. I think the new hotness is to sew a piece of vertical webbing and use a QASM buckle. That would allow you to run a piece of webbing horizontally through it or a large bungee cord for compression. I can get behind this. |
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Originally Posted By roguetrader: https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/1098?itemId=522018&attrValue_0=Orange&sku=1000211084&pla1=0&qs=3156267&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20151164823&gbraid=0AAAAADoqq1IhzQI2wOuPHtKZw45dnE0-Q&gclid=CjwKCAiAqKbMBhBmEiwAZ3UboKBmQv0dgTnJuKtBDD_eiJmP-f0vjSWXZUY1QEP0hjqMPSNID_LqCBoC_rEQAvD_BwE&SN=findability_search_preview_03&SS=A&SN2=findability_trending_searches_04&SS2=A&SN3=MobilePLA_03&SS3=B&noaa_region=northeast&originalProduct=129150 Something like this where is it’s small enough to be rolled up and stored in/behind one of the pockets Look for a MR in and out 19 as well. When folded up it fits in one of the Alice pockets with plenty of extra room. |
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Originally Posted By AbleArcher: Getting the trail run in for the next couple days https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/188236/1000021365-3712042.jpg Crossfire lid is interesting. I was wondering how their daypack lid may be with the M(arnsdorff)ALICE. |
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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: Crossfire lid is interesting. I was wondering how their daypack lid may be with the M(arnsdorf)ALICE. I've got 2 different Crossfire lids, and the daypack lid. I'm going to try all of them. The daypack lid should work fine btw. Being able to swap lids is one of the reasons I did the floating lid. Edit: Swapped the buckles on the 2 regular lids tonight, I'll get around to playing around with them at some point. |
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I currently only have a surplus alice frame and shoulder straps for it. I was about to pull the trigger on the DEI frame and pad set, but shipping is $35. Do they ever run sales that would help offset the cost of that? My other option is to rob the MOLLE II shoulder straps from my other ruck but I know it will carry better with the DEI set, I have never been a fan of the way the MOLLE II carries. The pack itself is awesome. Definitely feels like its built like a brick shithouse. Unfortunately I don't have time right now to actually load it appropriately, its just stuffed with clothes for the photos right now. Hopefully sometime in the next few weeks I can lay out all my gear to organize and pack it all. Some SAW pouches and 2qt canteen pouches would be good for the sides of the pack. Just a couple of ideas for suggestions I had while putting it together. Maybe some kind of MOLLE or 2 inch webbing pass throughs on the bottom for the sleep system carrier, and maybe a small loop of webbing between the 3 pockets to kind of hold the lid straps in place when unbuckled. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
If my wife had another baby and I was in the delivery room, I'd probably look at it and yell "welcome back bitch" and then have the hospital page Norcal. -scuba_steve
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Originally Posted By 2apatriot: I currently only have a surplus alice frame and shoulder straps for it. I was about to pull the trigger on the DEI frame and pad set, but shipping is $35. Do they ever run sales that would help offset the cost of that? My other option is to rob the MOLLE II shoulder straps from my other ruck but I know it will carry better with the DEI set, I have never been a fan of the way the MOLLE II carries. The pack itself is awesome. Definitely feels like its built like a brick shithouse. Unfortunately I don't have time right now to actually load it appropriately, its just stuffed with clothes for the photos right now. Hopefully sometime in the next few weeks I can lay out all my gear to organize and pack it all. Some SAW pouches and 2qt canteen pouches would be good for the sides of the pack. Just a couple of ideas for suggestions I had while putting it together. Maybe some kind of MOLLE or 2 inch webbing pass throughs on the bottom for the sleep system carrier, and maybe a small loop of webbing between the 3 pockets to kind of hold the lid straps in place when unbuckled. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/361805/IMG_4935_jpeg-3713759.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/361805/IMG_4936_jpeg-3713760.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/361805/IMG_4937_jpeg-3713762.JPG Good god man, you need to replace those straps. Even a cheap set of MOLLE 2 straps is worth it over those. And yea, one of the things I do with my gear is I want to make the gear as durable as possible (within reason obviously). I intend for the gear to be used, and the last thing I want is someone who is actually using the gear for real to have it fail on them in the field. Especially since if we end up getting into a real war with China or something - I fully suspect that the gear supply chain is going to fall apart and alot of the gear people will be getting issued is going to be stripped down crap, with little or no aftermarket gear available. This is the thinking behind what I build. It's not the whiz bang lightest and fastest and bestest, but it's intended to last. This is one of the reason I did the medium ALICE packs when other, more modern packs exist. Most of the design flaws on the ALICE packs have been known and worked out over the years, it's a proven design. And with alot of the upgrades I did to them, I think that it's still a pretty solid pack in the modern world, especially after you put it on a good frame, with modern straps and belt. This is the same reason the MALICE pack and other modded out Large ALICE packs are still so popular. I thought about putting webbing straps on the bottom of the sleep system carrier, but I wanted to try and cut weight as much as possible - and webbing is one of the heaviest things on packs. Plus I'm designing a pack shelf / beavertail / cinch down compression panel that will attach to the bottom of the frame and wrap around the bottom and about halfway up the front of the pack so that you can cinch down any sleep system carrier or dry bag or compression sack really well. I think that is going to be the best way to attach a sleep system carrier, not molleing it to the bottom of the pack - which takes forever to put on and off, instead of having buckles that you can quickly put on and off and cinch the whole compression panel down - converting your pack from a full on ruck into a patrol pack when you remove the sleep system carrier. And yea, the next version of the pack I'm going to do, I'm going to add loops up towards the top, between the pockets, for the straps. I squashed the pockets closer together on this one, to make room for the 4 columns of molle on the sides. I played around with the loops anyways on the prototypes and on my packs, and while they worked (I used 3/4" webbing and 1" plastic loops to make it work) - it looked like crap and was a pain so do. So I skipped them. On the next one, I'm going to loosen the tolerances half an inch between the pockets and about 1/4" on each side, giving me room between the pockets and letting me do actual full-spec MOLLE columns on the sides, instead of cutting the widths down a little like I did. Also. The medium ALICE looks so good in Woodland. I can't decide which packs looked the best, the Tiger Stripe, Woodland, or the Splinter. I mean I like my ATACS ix pack, and the Ranger Green ones are just classic simple. But those 3 colors just stand out with the Medium ALICE. |
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Originally Posted By 2apatriot: I currently only have a surplus alice frame and shoulder straps for it. I was about to pull the trigger on the DEI frame and pad set, but shipping is $35. Do they ever run sales that would help offset the cost of that? My other option is to rob the MOLLE II shoulder straps from my other ruck but I know it will carry better with the DEI set, I have never been a fan of the way the MOLLE II carries. The pack itself is awesome. Definitely feels like its built like a brick shithouse. Unfortunately I don't have time right now to actually load it appropriately, its just stuffed with clothes for the photos right now. Hopefully sometime in the next few weeks I can lay out all my gear to organize and pack it all. Some SAW pouches and 2qt canteen pouches would be good for the sides of the pack. Just a couple of ideas for suggestions I had while putting it together. Maybe some kind of MOLLE or 2 inch webbing pass throughs on the bottom for the sleep system carrier, and maybe a small loop of webbing between the 3 pockets to kind of hold the lid straps in place when unbuckled. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/361805/IMG_4935_jpeg-3713759.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/361805/IMG_4936_jpeg-3713760.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/361805/IMG_4937_jpeg-3713762.JPG Looks great. I really should have gone M81.  Also, your shoulder straps are backwards. You gots your left where the right goes. |
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: Good god man, you need to replace those straps. Even a cheap set of MOLLE 2 straps is worth it over those. And yea, one of the things I do with my gear is I want to make the gear as durable as possible (within reason obviously). I intend for the gear to be used, and the last thing I want is someone who is actually using the gear for real to have it fail on them in the field. Especially since if we end up getting into a real war with China or something - I fully suspect that the gear supply chain is going to fall apart and alot of the gear people will be getting issued is going to be stripped down crap, with little or no aftermarket gear available. This is the thinking behind what I build. It's not the whiz bang lightest and fastest and bestest, but it's intended to last. This is one of the reason I did the medium ALICE packs when other, more modern packs exist. Most of the design flaws on the ALICE packs have been known and worked out over the years, it's a proven design. And with alot of the upgrades I did to them, I think that it's still a pretty solid pack in the modern world, especially after you put it on a good frame, with modern straps and belt. This is the same reason the MALICE pack and other modded out Large ALICE packs are still so popular. I thought about putting webbing straps on the bottom of the sleep system carrier, but I wanted to try and cut weight as much as possible - and webbing is one of the heaviest things on packs. Plus I'm designing a pack shelf / beavertail / cinch down compression panel that will attach to the bottom of the frame and wrap around the bottom and about halfway up the front of the pack so that you can cinch down any sleep system carrier or dry bag or compression sack really well. I think that is going to be the best way to attach a sleep system carrier, not molleing it to the bottom of the pack - which takes forever to put on and off, instead of having buckles that you can quickly put on and off and cinch the whole compression panel down - converting your pack from a full on ruck into a patrol pack when you remove the sleep system carrier. And yea, the next version of the pack I'm going to do, I'm going to add loops up towards the top, between the pockets, for the straps. I squashed the pockets closer together on this one, to make room for the 4 columns of molle on the sides. I played around with the loops anyways on the prototypes and on my packs, and while they worked (I used 3/4" webbing and 1" plastic loops to make it work) - it looked like crap and was a pain so do. So I skipped them. On the next one, I'm going to loosen the tolerances half an inch between the pockets and about 1/4" on each side, giving me room between the pockets and letting me do actual full-spec MOLLE columns on the sides, instead of cutting the widths down a little like I did. Also. The medium ALICE looks so good in Woodland. I can't decide which packs looked the best, the Tiger Stripe, Woodland, or the Splinter. I mean I like my ATACS ix pack, and the Ranger Green ones are just classic simple. But those 3 colors just stand out with the Medium ALICE. Originally Posted By marnsdorff: Good god man, you need to replace those straps. Even a cheap set of MOLLE 2 straps is worth it over those. And yea, one of the things I do with my gear is I want to make the gear as durable as possible (within reason obviously). I intend for the gear to be used, and the last thing I want is someone who is actually using the gear for real to have it fail on them in the field. Especially since if we end up getting into a real war with China or something - I fully suspect that the gear supply chain is going to fall apart and alot of the gear people will be getting issued is going to be stripped down crap, with little or no aftermarket gear available. This is the thinking behind what I build. It's not the whiz bang lightest and fastest and bestest, but it's intended to last. This is one of the reason I did the medium ALICE packs when other, more modern packs exist. Most of the design flaws on the ALICE packs have been known and worked out over the years, it's a proven design. And with alot of the upgrades I did to them, I think that it's still a pretty solid pack in the modern world, especially after you put it on a good frame, with modern straps and belt. This is the same reason the MALICE pack and other modded out Large ALICE packs are still so popular. I thought about putting webbing straps on the bottom of the sleep system carrier, but I wanted to try and cut weight as much as possible - and webbing is one of the heaviest things on packs. Plus I'm designing a pack shelf / beavertail / cinch down compression panel that will attach to the bottom of the frame and wrap around the bottom and about halfway up the front of the pack so that you can cinch down any sleep system carrier or dry bag or compression sack really well. I think that is going to be the best way to attach a sleep system carrier, not molleing it to the bottom of the pack - which takes forever to put on and off, instead of having buckles that you can quickly put on and off and cinch the whole compression panel down - converting your pack from a full on ruck into a patrol pack when you remove the sleep system carrier. And yea, the next version of the pack I'm going to do, I'm going to add loops up towards the top, between the pockets, for the straps. I squashed the pockets closer together on this one, to make room for the 4 columns of molle on the sides. I played around with the loops anyways on the prototypes and on my packs, and while they worked (I used 3/4" webbing and 1" plastic loops to make it work) - it looked like crap and was a pain so do. So I skipped them. On the next one, I'm going to loosen the tolerances half an inch between the pockets and about 1/4" on each side, giving me room between the pockets and letting me do actual full-spec MOLLE columns on the sides, instead of cutting the widths down a little like I did. Also. The medium ALICE looks so good in Woodland. I can't decide which packs looked the best, the Tiger Stripe, Woodland, or the Splinter. I mean I like my ATACS ix pack, and the Ranger Green ones are just classic simple. But those 3 colors just stand out with the Medium ALICE. Yeah, this is an old pack that was my dads, probably my grandfathers. I looked at MOLLE II straps but they are $60, at that point I might as well just pony up and get the full set from DEI, then I can put the original alice back together. Trying to keep the weight down makes sense, just a few ideas I had. Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: Looks great. I really should have gone M81. Also, your shoulder straps are backwards. You gots your left where the right goes. Oof, now I see it. Thanks. Can you tell I haven't actually put it on yet? |
If my wife had another baby and I was in the delivery room, I'd probably look at it and yell "welcome back bitch" and then have the hospital page Norcal. -scuba_steve
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Originally Posted By 2apatriot: Yeah, this is an old pack that was my dads, probably my grandfathers. I looked at MOLLE II straps but they are $60, at that point I might as well just pony up and get the full set from DEI, then I can put the original alice back together. Trying to keep the weight down makes sense, just a few ideas I had.[/img] Originally Posted By 2apatriot: Yeah, this is an old pack that was my dads, probably my grandfathers. I looked at MOLLE II straps but they are $60, at that point I might as well just pony up and get the full set from DEI, then I can put the original alice back together. Trying to keep the weight down makes sense, just a few ideas I had.[/img] $22 shipped. You can do a good dye job for $5. https://www.ebay.com/itm/305422597117 Just an alternative idea. The DEI set IS really nice. Heck, I have a set - ordered from that same seller on ebay - that I already dyed that I will sell you for $35 shipped. (I have more straps than frames after that Crossfire set I ordered) Originally Posted By 2apatriot: Oof, now I see it. Thanks. Can you tell I haven't actually put it on yet? [img]http://www.ar15.com/images/smilies/smiley_abused.gif[/img] Try it on, and you'll very quickly go pony up and replace those straps [img]/images/smilies/smiley_abused.gif[/img] |
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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: Looks great. I really should have gone M81. Also, your shoulder straps are backwards. You gots your left where the right goes. Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: Originally Posted By 2apatriot: I currently only have a surplus alice frame and shoulder straps for it. I was about to pull the trigger on the DEI frame and pad set, but shipping is $35. Do they ever run sales that would help offset the cost of that? My other option is to rob the MOLLE II shoulder straps from my other ruck but I know it will carry better with the DEI set, I have never been a fan of the way the MOLLE II carries. The pack itself is awesome. Definitely feels like its built like a brick shithouse. Unfortunately I don't have time right now to actually load it appropriately, its just stuffed with clothes for the photos right now. Hopefully sometime in the next few weeks I can lay out all my gear to organize and pack it all. Some SAW pouches and 2qt canteen pouches would be good for the sides of the pack. Just a couple of ideas for suggestions I had while putting it together. Maybe some kind of MOLLE or 2 inch webbing pass throughs on the bottom for the sleep system carrier, and maybe a small loop of webbing between the 3 pockets to kind of hold the lid straps in place when unbuckled. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/361805/IMG_4935_jpeg-3713759.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/361805/IMG_4936_jpeg-3713760.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/361805/IMG_4937_jpeg-3713762.JPG Looks great. I really should have gone M81. Also, your shoulder straps are backwards. You gots your left where the right goes. He's left-handed. |
I love a good double entendre.
Something to watch out for on the Frontier Resolve frames... How Creating a Bomb Proof Pack Bombed. The Failure of the Frontier Resolve Fortitude Frame. |
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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: Something to watch out for on the Frontier Resolve frames...  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVhepLyjKKgI saw this last night. I'm going to go in and sand the inside edges of the frame's holes. It's totally because he had weights, pushing the pillows out, forcing the fabric to rub against the holes, and he probably didn't have the pack cinched down really well, causing it to sway a good bit, making the weights move around even more. A frame sheet or piece of foam on the inside, back of the pack would fix this problem. But yes. Something to look out for. |
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: I saw this last night. I'm going to go in and sand the inside edges of the frame's holes. It's totally because he had weights, pushing the pillows out, forcing the fabric to rub against the holes, and he probably didn't have the pack cinched down really well, causing it to sway a good bit, making the weights move around even more. A frame sheet or piece of foam on the inside, back of the pack would fix this problem. But yes. Something to look out for. Totally. I'm not jumping on the hate train since if this was a real issue for many people, I likely would have seen it before just now, with this one guy. |
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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: Totally. I'm not jumping on the hate train since if this was a real issue for many people, I likely would have seen it before just now, with this one guy. I can see this totally happening btw. It makes sense with how he was carrying what he was carrying. Id kick myself too if I was him. I also think it's a good thing it happened, so that the rest of us know about the possibility of it. It's probably an easy fix for a problem that probably won't occur to the vast majority of people who use the frame. |
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Where can I find buckles that attach directly to fabric like this? ETA: After looking at this post I see they are called Duraflex buckles. I checked the Duraflex website, but can't find that one.  
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I love a good double entendre.
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Originally Posted By trails-end: Where can I find buckles that attach directly to fabric like this? ETA: After looking at this post I see they are called Duraflex buckles. I checked the Duraflex website, but can't find that one. www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWSDX7Q Here's one source: https://milspecmonkey.com/store/hardware-diy/137-1875-itw-surfacemount-1inch.html#/14-color-black/45-unit_pack-1unit |
Earthsheltered house - a reinforced bunker that even the treehuggers consider to be socially acceptable.
Earthbag house - like an earthsheltered house, but cheaper and easier to DIY.
Earthbag house - like an earthsheltered house, but cheaper and easier to DIY.
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Originally Posted By trails-end: Where can I find buckles that attach directly to fabric like this? ETA: After looking at this post I see they are called Duraflex buckles. I checked the Duraflex website, but can't find that one. www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWSDX7Q No, they are the ITW Nexus GT Surmount Side Release Buckles. Rockywoods carries them. https://rockywoods.com/products/1-inch-25mm-nexus-gt-surmount-side-release-buckle-sold-per-each-1 If you use them - and they are good for certain stuff - be super careful attaching them. It attaches with 4 x prongs, and you have to cut a slit for each hole without making the slit too big (I use an exacto knife after marking the locations with a sharpie) It's super easy to accidentally make the slit too big, ruining the piece you are working on. |
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Originally Posted By trails-end: Thanks, marnsdorff. Do you have to fuse the cut for synthetic fabric? I don't? You're (generally) always better off doing so though. BUT for the tiny cuts needed for the prongs, I don't know if fusing the cut would work - fusing it shrinks it slightly. I don't know if you want it shrunk? I guess if you had a smaller hot blade than the prongs, so that it 'shrunk' to the size you needed, that'd be the best bet. But the cuts are already smaller than a small exacto knife blade pushed straight in. I haven't had a problem with them shredding. You can also attach these to a larger piece of webbing, then sew that webbing into place. If I were taking the time to use these for myself, and it worked on the pouches I'm doing, I'd probably do it this way. You can see an example below on the canteen pouch in the link. You can also rotate the webbing 90 degrees so that you create a pass through channel for bungie cord / elastic webbing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/305844539286 |
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