Yea I can do one.  Message sent.

@Diz

Looks like Administrative Results wore your rig for another video. That's yours, right?

Attached File

Yeah that looks like a Diz rig to me.

And here's the thing.  We've all gotten away with "flat" lids for so long, that now a lid that is actually tailored for field conditions is now looked at as optional.  Although there are some good exceptions, I'd say any pouch made for actual field work (as opposed to CQB), needs to have an enclosed structure.  We have not lived out in jungles and forests for extended periods of time with everything on our backs.  We've been fighting from vehicles or forward operating bases.  That and the increased emphasis on fast, accurate shooting, brought on by the war on terror, saw our support equipment rapidly change to "quick draw" concepts.  As times change, some folks are seeing a need for different support equipment, quite similar to what we old timers carried, but with important differences.  Some dismiss this as the same old crap, and continue to use CQB-centric gear, thinking they are more modern, or worse, just following the crowd.  The reality is actually those that are examining their actual needs and using what is best for them are setting themselves up for success, vs just copying what the bro-vets were all using for decades.  And since that's all they know, they poo poo anything different.  

In this case, a little tailoring (like an ALICE top lid) might suffice for a buttpack, but in the main, your pouches should probably be enclosed.  That is if you are like me, and live in a rural area, and don't plan on going anywhere near the modern urban shit-holes called cities these days.  

Had a chance to hike/shoot a bit with my DZ rig.  I really like the weight distribution, and thoughtful pouch layout. I had 6 mags, 1 Harris XG-100P radio, and 1911 in the pouches w/ some additional sustainment. Thought I'd share a few photos to see it in it's element.

DZ rig w/ Alice pack modded by tactical tailor

Oh yea.  That's why I made my buttpack lids like I did.  

And heck no.  I'm not going off the mountain, much less anywhere near a city.

It's just a matter of time before we start fighting in woods or jungles again where it rains and becomes muddy enough to become vehicular slow-go or no-go terrain.

Quick draw is great until you try jamming it into a weapon and it's covered in grit or mud.

Americana Pipedream has (looks like incomplete) sets of British MTP issued belt kit for sale in new, unissued condition.

Looks like harness, belt, 2 x double mag pouch sets, and a utility pouch from the pictures.  But the description says 'assorted pouches'.  So dunno.

https://www.americanapipedream.com/collections/british-surplus/products/issued-british-mtp-plce-webbing-kit

That's the business right there.

Exactly right IMO. "We always prepare to fight the last war" is the common remark about any current martial rearming/buildup. We civvies will be, if ever we will be, fighting at home. To me, where I am, in my logistical environment; retention is KING. Exposed, in a vehicle, speed may be the key. In the brush, or even many urban environment, cover is key. That may seem like I'm comparing cover with accessibility, and I am.

Cover allows for a slower reload. Reloading at lightning speed ONLY  significantly helps when you completely lack the cover necessary to do a slower reload. All super fast reload setups seems to have either less secure gear or more exposed gear that may lead to gear failure due to the gear's exposure.

I've said this, and I think it's true. 3 gun rigs/battle belts are for the range, competition, and perhaps first responders. Running a timed event will focus on speed. Speed is only one of many factors that keep you consuming oxygen. Cover beats speed.

If I ever have to use my gear for anything more than LARPing or hiking, this is what my entire area of operation looks like, other than a few open areas in the valleys along the roads, half of which is cropland / pasture / christmas tree fields.



Try crawling through a rhododendron thicket while scrambling up a hillside while wearing that gucci open topped of velcro-closure mag pouch.  

Try operating in this environment - where temperatures drop down into the lower 60's at night, even in the middle of summer and are at or below 50f most of the year at night....without basic sustainment gear on you.  You will die out there if you get separated from your gear without at least basic warming layers or something to sustain you.  Or at least quickly become combat ineffective.  

BTDT, grew up in west Asheville NC. It's a bit thicker here in SE Alaska. Your open top mag pouches are just an offering to the jungle gods.

I lived near fairbanks for a short bit.  I getcha.

I heard they were copies of German WW2 alpine troop field uniforms, and were tested after the war by the Soviets who thought they were awesome but didn't put them into service. Decades later private Russian gear companies like ANA and SPOSN uncovered the old testing, and made new reproduction uniforms which caught on like wildfire in their operator communities and PMCs that could afford their own gear

The weird use of straight up Nazi camo schemes is odd to me, but I guess 50 years later the Russians didn't care about that part

I have used a few of my Gorka's on a wide number of occasions and they've been great down to -10F using a good base layer, and do in fact block the wind and retain heat like you said. It's pretty awesome. The natural canvas water proofing isn't as durable as I thought it would be though and I used Sno-Seal later to super water proof it again, but NIB and before they were washed a bunch of times the water would indeed roll off like Rain-X. That was also awesome

I still wear the pants almost every hunting trip in the scorching TX summers and they don't overheat like I thought they might considering their material, so they are still my go-to for outdoor activities. Technically they are oversuits with pass through hip pockets, but I had mine sewn to have real pockets so that I could use them like jeans. The fabric and build quality of the original ANA and SPOSN versions are amazing and really stand up to hard abuse. Companies like Modox and other newer ones you see on Ebay all jumped into the game without the same quality, so the majority of Gorka's on the market are airsoft quality crap, nothing more than fancy LARPing suits

BARS seems to get decent reviews but the one I have isn't canvas made, it's more like a tougher service uniform but not a mountain suit

An older article on Gorka and other Russian camo patterns




@rb889

Yes indeed, and my apologies for fanning the flames on commie gear. I'm not trying to drag everyone down with me, but sometimes people have questions

As usual you are spot on Diz

I was on twitter the other day looking at Ukrainian loadouts on both sides and it seemed like there was a pretty clear difference between both sides and gear the operated with

The REMF's posing for photos had quick draw CQB style pouches and looked all the SEAL hotness tip of the spear operator part, and the guys actually pulling triggers were using closed lid gear because they lived in a sea of mud on the front lines. Russian and Ukrainians seemed to be split this way

It was really noticeable if you came from the old days where gear had to keep you alive during extended conditions in the field, vs the modern strike and return to base by vehicle world we live in now

For sure, and thanks for saying that, because trolls can accuse me of being partisan here, when the whole purpose of what I'm doing is to spread the word on what to get, to get ready for possible hard times.  It doesn't matter if you buy CF, VelSys, Nixies, Dixies, or JJ's.  Whatever.  Just get your kit together.

Some Russian vids show dudes with their open mag pouches and mags covered in a nice layer of ice where they had been out in some sleet. Seemed like it would suck.

Also vids of Ukrainian dudes with four mags on each hip and three to six on a plate carrier, all open top. So who knows.

If someone accuses you of being "partisan" in this thread, then they must not have read your many "non-partisan" comments sprinkled throughout this thread.  No fair-minded person, having read this thread, can reasonably accuse you of being "partisan".  @Diz

Pretty much.  I have a German WW2 camo smock, one of the generic camo ones, not the alpine ones.  And the cut and design is almost the same as the SPOSN Partizan suit I have.  I mean, the Sposn is a bit more refined, the hood is more complex, but you hold them up to eachother and you immediately see that the SPOSN got it's design from the German smocks.  





Hey, the German stuff worked.  Why try to fix what isn't broken.  Heck, if you look closely, the M81 Woodland we used has basically the exact same color pallet as WW2 German Splinter.  





Thus why I am wanting to start doing American made ones.  Both in modern fabrics and high-quality Ventile cotton style fabrics.  They just make really good field uniforms.  I'm also eying that new fabric the military is using on their new hot weather uniforms to use to make Partizan suits out of.  I know they are making it in other patterns than multicam.  





I've got a BARS made out of the canvas stuff.

Hey now.  I am an equal opportunity gear user.  If it works, it works.  The Russians, believe it or not, have some decent stuff.  (Of course, we know this because their commanders keep selling it off to us on the black market, lol)

I'm a big fan of Gorka suits (and modern softshell stuff too, but the Gorkas are a bit more robust), Partizan suits, British style Smocks, modern raingear, those super thin and light windshirts are actually really useful as long as you understand their limitations (fragile), modern base layers (especially the grid stuff), and I actually like oldschool wool sweaters for layering.  Modern fleece are great too.  Pros and cons between the wool and fleece for mid layers.  I lean towards good wool sweaters for longevity, but the fleece is much lighter.  

I don't care who makes it.  If it works, it works.  You dirty commie scum.

(On a side note, I'm an AK guy at heart.  We would get along well.)

I am an oddball.  I'm a civilian, but I grew up as a kid playing with a set of ALICE gear and pack, surrounded by friends and family who were largely military or military vets.  Most of my friends went military, I stayed civilian to help run the family business.  Big into backpacking and bushcraft stuff, grew up rural in both the coastal swamps of Georgia and the Appalachian mountains, spent alot of time out in Montana working on a cattle ranch as a teenager.  Always was into guns and stuff, ran a small online tactical gear shop for a while from 2004-2006, sent alot of gear to the guys overseas as well as the burgeoning airsoft community.  I spent my time as a kid poking through Brigade Quartermaster, US Cav, Sportsmans Guide, Cheaper Than Dirt, etc. catalogs, trying to figure out what I should save my money on to get.  So I have a weird oddball viewpoint on all this stuff.  

I never got forced to use something by being issued it and saw the big shift from ALICE gear and field jackets to plate carriers and goretex stuff  (I still have the first goretex jacket I ever had, an old gen 1 military issue one in woodland)  

I take a really practical approach to things.  I have some of the cool guy gucci stuff.  I can roll out in plate carrier, micro-rig, warbelt with the open top Kwyi pouches, etc.  I like that stuff, it's cool.  I dabble in LARP stuff for the lolz.  But for actual long-term use stuff?  There's a reason I'm a fan of the belt kit and practical layering gear like Gorka suits and British smocks.  I have one of the Haley chest rigs sitting next to my rifle.  I actually like it alot.  However, if I was going to seriously run a chest rig, I'd want one with closed mag pouches, with actual buckles, not just velcro closure.  Right now I have a couple of Tactical Tailor MAV's outfitted like this - and those work great, even if one of them is the original one I got 20 years ago.  Something newer would be @Hawkeye 's chest rigs.  They use a similar closure system as Diz's belt kit  (I wonder where he got that idea from....)

This is where I'm coming from with all this.  I'm openly not some HSLD dude, but I spent alot of time outdoors over the years and saw how we went from a military that can be field sustainable to one that is used to (mostly!) doing short ops then going back to base.  (there are exceptions to this, just to be clear).  And I fear that whatever we get into next isn't going to be like that.

Yea, I don't think anyone is accusing you of being partisan.

Sure, you prefer what you designed - you designed it.  It's obviously what YOU would use.  But you have given open support to plenty of other kit out there.  There are pros and cons to all of this stuff - you point some of those out.  Nothing wrong with that.

Well, at the risk of further thread-drift, it's easy to tell when the next MAJOR war will begin.

It will be with the disruption/destruction of GPS/COMMS satellites.

ALL potential combatants rely on such satellites for a variety of things, all of which are mission-critical for the military.

There is some "redundancy" within "civilian" satellite systems, but that only goes so far...

The initial stages of the next MAJOR war will be fought in Space.  And possibly decided there.

Venture just sent out an email blast that they have unissued MTP PLCE sets for $60/set anyone interested. MTP is their version of Multicam that is slightly greener.

That's Americana Pipedream, not Venture.  I mentioned this on the last page   :-D  

On a side note, I sewed a full set of these onto a British issued HIPPO Belt pad  (the one that attaches to this style of oldschool PLCE) and it turned out pretty nice.  Not as good as a modern belt, and the labor was too much to be worth it unless you want to do it yourself  (the stack of materials was too thick for even my industrial machine to life the presser foot enough to clear it, it was a massive pain)

However, these pouches, especially the mag pouches, sew onto a modern style padded belt REALLY well.  Those budget rigs I'm selling with the older DPM pattern pouches on them?  They actually turned out really nice.  If someone got a set of these MTP pouches, especially since they are new and come with a harness, it would be worth getting someone to sew them onto a modern belt for you. (or even better, you do it yourself.  The belts are doable on a decent domestic machine, and you can hand-sew the pouches on if you have to)  They turn out very very nice.  This is a seriously viable option for anyone who wants to get into belt kit on a budget.

Also, MTP > Multicam.

SLOCAM > AUSCAM > MTP > Multicam

Agreed, along with direct action strikes domestically by insurgents.

Well...shit.  I even looked to see if anyone had posted.  Oh well.  My bad.

Naw, no problem.  At first I was like  'Venture has them too?  Good, maybe we will finally get a solid supply of them!'

Just for laughs, I bought the Bundeswehr flecktarn rig, along with a number of canteen pouches (and other pouches/pack).  Already have Mag pouches and holster.

ETA, some folks use these Mil-Tec Alice Adaptors   to attach Bundeswehr pouches to common ALICE/PALS platforms.  The items aren't exactly cheap (DO shop around, but making them with suitable brass grommets, and "sized" with wider vertical slots suitable for Short Malice clips should be fairly easy.  Probably will need one for measurements.

Also visited sewing machine guru who did a little adjusting of machine and gave me instructions on how to do it myself if changes in material/needle/thread require adjustment.  Sewed on grosgrain edge covers (binding) on edges of raw fabric inside two GI sustainment pouches.  Note I am learning on items where the "new" stitching will not normally be seen.

Guru kept commenting on how nice the Brother "Super Streamliner" sewing machine was for its age (1958). Straight stitch, no zig-zag, low shank, no plastic anywhere).  Got a good laugh at the $14.95 thrift store sticker I left attached.

Will need to test whether it will sew through a couple thicknesses of typical 1"' webbing.  Certainly, will be able to "walk" it through such, if need be.

Thanks to all here who provided guidance on needles/thread and so many details.  I think I'm off to a reasonably promising start.

Yea, my old Singer Fashion Mate was also a thrift store find.  I think I got it for $20?  That's what I started my gear sewing with.  Those older domestic machines - the all metal ones - will do basic work on this kind of gear if you are careful.  That's definitely what I would recommend to people trying to get into this - look around, you will find old domestic machines, usually complete with thread and needles from the previous owner, for cheap.  They started switching over to plastic internals sometime in the 1960's, depending on the machine, give or take.  My Fashion Mate was one of the last of the all-metal domestics, and mine was made in 1968.  They have limitations, but you can cheaply get into sewing, learn the basics, plus those old domestics are great for regular sewing, non-tactical gear stuff.  Sewing clothing, fixing, say, a big doggie bed where the seam burst because they did crap chinese stitching on it.  Like I did recently.  Those nice industrial machines like my Juki, once you get big enough to do industrial stuff, they are set up to run big heavy thread and needles, and most of them balk at using smaller stuff you need for clothing and such.  So it's nice to have a cheap domestic around for random stuff.

Raf, you should be able to do a couple layers of webbing.  Mine was able to handle 2 layers of cordura and 2 layers of webbing easily enough as long as I had sharp needles and was careful.  Much more than that though, and it was tough going.

Yeah, I think that will be possible, especially with some hand-guiding of the wheel of sewing machine within "tough" spots.  Guru was impressed with my Brother machine.  I also understand that some "adjustment" is possible between external electric motor and rubber drive belt, possibly giving more "traction" to motor.

I have much to learn.

FWIW, Today learned that identical Brother Sewing machine is being sold on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/176291501007?itmmeta=01HSKVB0MX7WPFNBFBK7T4BVXW&;hash=item290bcad3cf:g:h~cAAOSw77JlrdgB&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8OxYfTxBcECfxFHgwZowsWx42VgVUi9ZvMDSIPR3086Q%2FR6KoPF8KSSiyA42pPwqjp%2FYGBjkIRlj0pHXC04XhKLwq5vdeQMS3wvHhccECiq3%2FiV2Yf%2BTwbNtk%2F44poCgyG1lKOcJxVWz8MbK9n%2Bn7K9RtowxdWYiBgFmswtmt0xqpgpqmxNIYgAsNKKdsspfxHJ5ADUmXNPT3KjI7x2fwWE7npCVg6FYlETu%2BaUBzuuAl%2FgsTaNGxxcCga7HRISbW%2FoE6GNUBqPOXhVcDJuwKgJXOafVRaRVUWJE4OwCTz7p2oJtZ3VI4NfoNcvGQkpR8g%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8qKrPvMYw

That's a LOT more than my $14.99 sewing machine, plus Mfr's Instruction booklet, and multiple attachments included. Bought at local thrift place.

It's remarkable how I get "lucky" sometimes.  Not the first time "lucky"; sometimes being "lucky" is based on careful study.

I'm going to point out that if you win that for $90, you'd get it, shipped, for about $150.  That's still a better deal than any of the new domestic machines.  I do agree with you about the thrift store find - if you look around, and ASK around, you will be surprised at the machines you can find locally.  I've seen people get free machines after asking at church if anyone has any machines they want to get rid of, and some old lady who doesn't sew anymore gives them her old sewing machine.

If you look around and shop around, you can score a decent domestic off of ebay for less than $100 shipped.  It might be beat up, but generally the internals will be fine if it will sew in the condition they are sold in.

Here's one similar - not sure if it's the same model exactly - for less than $100 shipped.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204658416995

Here's a good condition Fashion Mate like mine.  $130 shipped.  Remember I got mine the same way you did - thrift store for like $20.  Looking around is worth it.  (note that thrift stores RARELY have sewing machines and things like vacuums - my old commercial vacuum I got for $5 from a thrift store.  I've had it well over a decade now.  It's worth telling the managers at thrift stores you are looking for sewing machines or whatever, and please call you, that you would be willing to pay an extra $5 or $10 or whatever.)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/386875297671

As for your machine - yea, I upgraded my motor with a new servo motor, new band, new pedal, and a new LED light.  I think I was like $60 all-in on the upgrades?  It worked way better.  The newer motors and pedals aren't just 'not worn out' - they are more powerful AND easier to control - the new servo motors are smoother on the power output, and the pedals are far more sensitive to your touch, as they are electric, not plate-driven pedals.  

I ordered the parts myself - mostly off of ebay and amazon - and it was easy to do.  You with your diy attitude could totally do the upgrades yourself.  Let me know if you ever decide to upgrade, I'll show you the brand motor I got  (most of the modern motors suck, there's one good brand) and the pedal and light.  You generally have to upgrade all of those at the same time, as the new motors plug into the pedal differently, and don't have the output for the light.  

That is one thing about these old domestics - alot of the time the motors are worn out.  Then again, my grandmother gave me her machine recently, and the motor is fine in that one - she didn't use it much.

I have much to learn.

You're doing good so far.  The learning curve to make USABLE stuff isn't hard.  The most important bit is to learn to get the tension right for whatever fabric stack you are using.  That was the hardest, most frustrating part for me.  

The next step is to figure out how to keep the presser foot firmly down and other things that cause tangles or jams, usually under the presser foot plate.  

You figure those two things out, you can make USABLE gear.  It might not look pretty, but your seams will hold together well enough.

Once you get that, sewing a straight line, then sewing on curved lines.  Then it's all downhill as you master specialized stuff like binding tape, making corners look good, keeping fabric / seams together as you sew them, etc.  

For anyone just getting into this stuff, these are some resources I found useful to reference / practice with early on.  First are some sheets with thread tension cheat-sheets.  Note that most of these just mention the 'top tension' - the knob on your machine.  There is a bottom thread tension, on you bobbin, that is modified with a screwdriver.  Be very careful messing with this tension, it's not marked and easy to mess up enough that it's a pain finding your perfect place again.  But sometimes you will need to adjust it.  I count and write down the number of 1/4 turns I do.  








Next is print out sheets to practice stitching straight lines and such.  Though if you have some sheets of ruled paper, just use those instead of the straight line ones.  Print out the curves and shapes, and practice using cheap thread to follow the lines exactly, then learn to follow specific distances OFF of the lines.  IE, pretend the line is the edge of the fabric for a seam, and you want to keep your stitch line 1/8" to the left of the line.  I have been told by multiple people that this is what ALOT of sewing classes do in class and assign as homework to start people off.  This is a good cheap way to learn to stitch straight lines.  

https://www.allfreesewing.com/Basics-and-Tutorials/Sewing-Machine-Paper-Practice-Sheets-NSM2020

Next is x-box practice.  This is pretty easy to do if you can do straight lines.  There are a number of patterns you can follow to complete these.  If you look at gear, this is what is used alot of time to hold webbing in place - it has the best ability to resist having webbing torn free.  It's also used on things like velcro pieces, etc. to hold them in place.  I'm posting these mostly for the 2 different patterns on them.  But try them out if you want.





The following link is a good breakdown on different threads, terminology used with thread, uses, etc.  Well worth the read if you are new to sewing, especially if you want to get into specialized sewing like tactical gear.

https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=nylon-thread-information

Ummmm....you will want to get the manual for your machine if you don't have one.  Also, get the 'service manual' - also sometimes called 'engineers manual' or other terms - for your specific machine.  This will walk you through most of the servicing and basic repairs to your machine, so that you don't have to go pay someone to do it.  You can almost always find copies of these online for free.

For some basic sewing books, usually some of the older books are better than the newer ones.  I'd keep my eyes open at thrift stores and used bookstores for sewing books.  I wouldn't spend much money on sewing books, but a basic reference guide or two isn't bad.  Especially if you get them at thrift stores or for free online.  (some of the older books are free use by now and are available online)  For some specific books that are considered really good books for beginners:

Complete Home Reference Book of Sewing and Needlework by Mary Brooks Picken and Elizabeth Mathieson  -  this contains two books actually, from 1944 and 1949.  Oldschool, basic 'how to sew' books for beginners.  You can find this online.

The Singer Sewing Book.  Another solid beginner book.  The first edition of this book, actually, was written by Mary Brooks Picken, who wrote one of the books in the set mentioned above.  On an interesting side note, she is a very interesting person.  She wrote almost 100 books on sewing and fashion, starting back in the early 1900's.  She started and ran a correspondence course - The Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences - that taught all the basics of domestic stuff - sewing, laundry, cooking, home maintenance, all kinds of stuff, and educated hundreds of thousands of American women from 1916 to just after WW2.  She literally laid the foundation for modern home domestic information for the United States.  And is a good example of health women's empowerment without destroying society.  Her coursework books are all available online and as reprints btw.  You know.  For rebuilding civilization after WW3.  

Her books are more aimed at clothing but there is some good basic sewing info in there.  Also might be of use to someone, those books will have alot about the basics of tailoring, pattern making, modifying clothing, etc.  

You can find some of here books to look at here online for free.  https://onlinebooks.library.upenn.edu/webbin/book/lookupname?key=Woman's%20Institute%20of%20Domestic%20Arts%20and%20Sciences


If you want to get into some of the more specific, specialized sewing techniques, and alot of the technical stuff, the whys, etc. with tactical gear, look for the 'Parachute Riggers Handbook' - it's a government manual and you should be able to find it for free online.  Alot of it isn't about sewing, but it has sections about sewing, fabrics, etc. that have more to do with heavy duty use items, like you would be dealing with in tactical gear.  

After that, there's a ton of videos on youtube and blogs and forums on most sewing subjects.  But not alot on the specifics of tactical gear and other heavy duty sewing stuff.  Alot of people in the industry aren't keen on teaching others how to do this stuff, though there are some good exceptions.  Don't be afraid to ask questions on forums.  Forums that might actually answer questions on tactical gear, look for rigging subforums on parachute gear forums.  Also leatherworking and sailing / sailmaking forums seem to have some decent overlap, as they tend to work alot with heavier fabrics like tactical gear uses.

I'd start by looking at your gear you already have up close, and look at how they are actually put together.  You can pick up surplus and other used gear on the cheap for examples.  The more you look at and figure out the hows and why they were put together, the better.  

What Raf is doing with modding surplus gear is a good start.  You can also take one apart, especially if it's, say, a ripped pouch or something, and see how it's made, make a pattern from it, then sew it back together again.  You can also probably get ruined gear that's blown out and try repairing it - take it apart, make a pattern of the ruined part of the pouch or whatever, and make a new piece, then sew the whole thing back together again.  Ask all your buddies and see if they have blown out gear they will give you.  Then find some cheap fabric - I picked up 30 yards of 12 oz canvas (which somewhat mimics cordura) for $2.40 / yard, shipped on clearance somewhere for instance, and have been using that to make prototypes with.  It lets me play with design ideas and learn better ways to put stuff together.  Canvas is also a fun fabric for other non-tactical gear projects.  And people love homemade gifts.  Try making some pencil pouches for the kids.  Make yourself some doo-dad pouches to go into your pack.  My mother asked me to make her some chair covers for her dining room chairs for her birthday recently.  There's lots of projects you can do for cheap that will let you learn to sew better, and alot of these side projects will let you use cheap fabric and cheap thread.  Chair covers don't need $30 / roll expensive bonded nylon thread.  You can use the cheaper $10 / roll amazon special 'bonded' nylon thread.  I'm sitting here looking at my roll of thread on my machine which is almost out, and I've been through almost 3,000 yards of thread so far.  I've learned by trial and error.  And lots and lots of late nights of stitching.  And I'm just getting decent and making stuff look good.  (making stuff totally useable, and making stuff also look good isn't the same.  Look at the pack someone made earlier in this thread - his stitching wasn't pretty, but his pack worked and from the pictures, the stitching should hold up well as long as he had the tension right and locked each end of his stitches down.  And I bet if he does another pack, that the stitching and overall look of the pack will be significantly better, because he learned alot from the first one)

So on another rabbit trail that has branched off on this thread, I just ran across this article that Varusteleka put out.  

https://www.varusteleka.com/en/article/textiles-are-needed-everywhere-during-a-major-crisis/78773

It is talking about how they are trying to move production of their textile based products out of China (they have been trying to do this for a couple years now) and they have been having issues doing so.  For instance, they had their recent shipments of just camo fabric held up in Chinese customs for extended periods of time.  

And they go on to talk about the fact that the inability to manufacture textiles and textile based products in Finland (or even Europe in general) is a huge strategic blunder and potentially extremely dangerous in wartimes or other crisis periods.

I have been harping on this for awhile, that we need to bring manufacturing back to the USA, and textiles and sewing shops of all kinds will be EXTREMELY in need as things get harder here in the USA and especially if times get spicy.  

This is one of the reason I have been pushing for people to learn to sew.  I'm even going to be putting up some of my patterns for gear and such for people to use to make their own gear.  I'm working on a webpage to be a clearing house for information on belt kit, with a secondary roll on learning to sew tactical gear.  

We need to move production of gear and clothing, both military related and civilian stuff, ASAP.  But we don't have the trained labor force to even MANAGE such a thing, much less actually do the sewing.  

Anyways,  Rant off.  Read the article.  It's short.  Also, Varusteleka has a couple videos up on youtube with a cute Finnish chick talking about it.

I have a lot of these thoughts, too (about sewing), especially as I get older and more broken, and constantly re-evaluating my utility during 'hard times', whatever that may mean.

I need to find a class locally or maybe just use YT and the basic-ass Singer I have in the basement.

You CAN do a class, but pull out that singer and just practice on that instead.

Read the bigger post I did a couple posts above yours, I have some good starter resources in there.  I'd learn the basics, then study youtube videos and ask questions on forums.  You will learn alot more.  If you have very specific, hands-on needed questions, then look at your local community - ask around at church or whatever, find a group of older ladies who do sewing groups, and if you understand the basics enough, you can get them to do some hands on teaching on specifics that you aren't finding elsewhere.

Yeah at it's very basis, sewing is essentially the same motor skill, regardless of what you're making.  I would say find any info source you can and study it.  Then interpolate to what you need.  

If you have peeps giving local classes, go for it.  It doesn't matter what you're making; it's all valuable experience.  I would go with my wife to quilt shops, other sewing shops, JoAnn's, etc. and ask how people did stuff.  You might be surprised at how much you can pick up from them.   Of course I also worked at sewing manufacturing companies, and also learned a butt-load there.  And apprenticed under a licensed parachute rigger, which teaches you many things about the materials and techniques directly related to load bearing equipment.  The trick is to figure out what is required, or at least applicable, to what you're doing and then teach yourself how to do it.  Don't be afraid to use trial and error to figure things out.  

The second thing, and this is directly related, is to go out and practice, or at least interview those that practice, these skills.  Once you understand why certain features are better than others, you can optimize your designs.  Which can be a two-edged sword.  Many are more interested in fashion over function, so if you really want to make gear that actually works, you may find only a small minority actually "get" you.  On the other hand it can be very satisfying knowing guys who actually train seriously and use your stuff.  You may not get rich doing it, but it's much more satisfying, IMHO.

And thirdly, you have to put in the sweat equity.  Nothing is going to happen without you going in, day after day, and making something.  All the bullshit on line will never accomplish anything; you have to make that happen.

@marnsdorff

"I ordered the parts myself - mostly off of ebay and amazon - and it was easy to do.  You with your diy attitude could totally do the upgrades yourself.  Let me know if you ever decide to upgrade, I'll show you the brand motor I got  (most of the modern motors suck, there's one good brand) and the pedal and light.  You generally have to upgrade all of those at the same time, as the new motors plug into the pedal differently, and don't have the output for the light."

By all means, please give me complete chapter and verse on motor/pedal/LED light upgrade, including specific recommendations and where to purchase.   In for a penny, in for a pound.  LED light on the way; screw-type socket for bulb is built-in to machine.

I'll also need some help in the nomenclature for, and web/vendor locations of, the presser feet I am most like to find useful for my purposes.  Don't see the need to buy a set of 60+ feet and only need a few of them.  Machine is a 1958 Brother with low shank.

TYVM!

Yup.  Practice basic skills.  Then start making stuff.  Then talk to people and find out how they do it / get them to show you how they do it.  Make more stuff.  Remake the stuff you messed up.  

Here's some cheap canvas.  If you sign up as a new customer, you get 10% off.  Order 10 yards, you get it a little cheaper too.  Start making stuff.  I'm making dopp kits for everyone I know this year out of similar canvas.  

https://www.bigduckcanvas.com/10-oz-48-cotton-duck/by-the-yard/-canvas-cloth-natural/

Ok.  So I tried finding info on your machine - there isn't much out there after some quick searches.  It seems to be a pretty obscure machine (but everyone who have them seem to like them.  And women love the color.)  I'm having trouble finding specifics on the motor, but after looking at a bunch of pictures, it seems it uses the same motor setup my singer uses (which is a pretty standard setup for these kinds of machines)

You want an  'Alphasew' brand motor.  I'll give you a link to what and where I got it from below.  The question is, does it use a 'K' bracket of an 'L' bracket.  From seeing the pictures, I'm pretty sure it uses the 'L' bracket.  You will be able to figure it out pretty quick looking at your machine and comparing pictures.  The motors are the same, but they just swap out brackets.  

Note that you can get these motors a bit cheaper elsewhere, but you have to go in and wire the electric cord and such yourself in the motor.  I could do it, but I'd rather leave electrical stuff up to people who do it all the time.  First link is to the 'L' bracket one, second to the 'K' bracket one.  See the bend in the bracket  (thus the  'L' designation)?  Look at how your motor attaches to your machine and see if it has a big, sharp bend or not.  Also, note that if you spend $49, you get free shipping.  It's worth it to spend the extra $10.  I'd get some needles and bobbins  (I don't know what kind of bobbin your machine uses - I'd ask your sewing guy.  Once you figure out what kind it uses, be sure to get a 10 pack of them.  And get a bobbin holder or those little bobbin clips that you can clip on to full bobbins to keep the thread in place.  Running out of full bobbins in the middle of sewing something sucks.  I keep a dozen bobbins full on my machine.)

https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/products/motor-alphasew-high-speed-na35l-hs

https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/products/motor-alphasew-high-speed-na35k-hs

You will need a V-belt, Cutex brand is good.  The style ones that come with that motor suck.  Get the oldfashioned V-Belt ones.  This is the one I got.  You might be able to find it cheaper, but I knew this one would work for my machine.  I have no idea if this is the length you need for your machine, and I couldn't find that info online.  You can measure the band you have now, or ask your sewing guy.  Heck, he might have the band cheaper to sell you.  But find out the length you need and get one like the one I'm linking below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BX857NK

Get this pedal.  It has a plug for an external led light with a flexible head.  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T22JC7M

This is the light I got.  It worked fine.  It's good to have two lights, one on each side of the presser feet.  I'm adding a 2nd light to my industrial, and I have a big LED double strip light directly overhead already.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FSPJKWQ/

Ok.  So you will thank yourself later for getting one of these snap-on adapters.  They aren't as sturdy as the regular feet, but they are far more convenient.  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084YT1KFG

When it comes to presser feet, I just do amazon searches for the kind of feet I want, then find one with alot of reviews, that have good review.  Most feet are $5-8 each.  For instance, this is the snap-on foot with an edge guide I got.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PXQ9QK8

This one has the same one I got above, plus another one that does it right on the edge.  If you machine has the ability to move the needle left or right (mine does) then you can adjust exactly where you want the stitch to go.  I got both of the ones in the below link, but bought them separately.  I'd just buy the 2-pack below.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DMVZMML?tag=arfcom00-20

Here's a narrow foot.  This one you won't be able to use the snap-on bit.  

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X1TQZJ4?tag=arfcom00-20

And you will want a snap-on regular foot too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY4R4CW?tag=arfcom00-20

Those are the presser feet I use for 99% of what I do.  There are specialty ones for stuff.  Zippers, etc.  But this will get you started.  The edge guide ones are magic feet, but they help you keep even straight lines along edges, especially on the binding tape if you are doing that by hand.  It definitely makes the 2 rows of stitching look better on binding tape if you are doing 2 stitch lines on it.  I'm starting to slowly start doing binding tape without the edge guides, just doing it with a regular foot.  I've gotten better with the edge guides as training wheels basically.  

If you don't have any, these are great.  I actually need to order some more.  I'd also get some small and large of those black triangle shaped 'paper clips'.  The metal ones for holding big stacks of paper together.  You don't need many, but it helps to have them sometimes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PNIWT2?tag=arfcom00-20

Get a pack of tailors chalk.  They make gucci pencils and 'mechanical pencils' that have chalk in them.  They get way more expensive.  The below chalk is cheap and will last you a long time.  I usually use that unless I want something super exact, then I pull out of the chalk pencils.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KH2THT5?tag=arfcom00-20

Get a 12 pack of these seam rippers.  You can also use an exacto knife, but you will cut the fabric and such more often.  It does help to have an exacto knife too.  But these thread rippers are cheap and work.  I made a big booboo last night actually , stitched right over 6 columns of molle.  3 stitch lines worth.  I'm going to spend half of tonight with a seam ripper and exacto knife fixing it.  That' what I get for talking on the phone while sewing.  

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HZGL17Z?tag=arfcom00-20

I have found that thread snips are a little better for cutting threads close to the fabric than scissors.  You can definitely use your scissors to do it, but eventually you might want to try some thread snips similar to these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P75B96?tag=arfcom00-20

Oh yea.  You will want one of these for sure.  Thread spool holder / hanger for using large cones of thread.  This will allow you to use those industrial spools of thread, which will save you alot of money long-term.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KIFKGF6?tag=arfcom00-20

If you don't have a bottle of sewing oil (I just use slip 2000) get some.  It helps to have a bottle with a long straw-like dripper, to get up into places though.  

A good pair of sharp scissors (they don't need to be gucci scissors - I keep a good, newish pair of Wescott heavy duty scissors I got at walmart for cutting heavier fabric and webbing.  And a basic pair of Fiskars scissors I got at walmart too for cutting lighter fabric and other stuff.  You can get away with the lighter duty one to start with), a 12" and an 18" steel ruler and a 36" steel or aluminum ruler come in really handy.  A small square for drawing corners.  It helps to have a couple sharpies including one of the micro sharpies, especially for practicing where it doesn't matter if markings show up on the finished product.  A few bic lighters for loose thread ends.  

Eventually if you get serious about this, getting a large 'self healing cutting mat' and a rolling fabric cutting tool helps with cutting out large pieces of fabric and cuts down on time.

Note that you don't NEED all that stuff listed above.  This is basically my whole sewing setup.  I'm sure I'm missing some stuff.  I've been piecing it together over time.  Basically every time I sell something, I replace the materials (and add a little more to stockpile) then order more things I need.  I am running out of things I 'need' at this point.  On my short list to get is a set of those flexible threading things so that I can guide paracord through my buttpack rain fly.  A bench mounted hot cutting knife for webbing.  A 2nd light for my sewing machine.  A set of fashion style pattern making guide  (they are like ruler squares, but with various curves and angles and such, for making patterns.  Oh yea, a big roll of white craft paper off of Amazon is great for making patterns.  I draw my patterns out on bit sheets I cut from the roll - I have 48" wide paper x 50'.  I then cut them out and fold and tape them together, to make sure they fold and edges match up and such.  Saved me ALOT of time and money doing this before ever cutting fabric.)   That's basically it on my 'want' list.  Just keeping on stockpiling fabric, webbing, binding tape, buckles and such.  Next purchase is another industrial machine like mine, but dedicated set up to use a binding attachment.  Then a 3rd machine so that I can hire someone to start expanding my shop into a full on sewing shop.  I need to build a storage shed to clear out stuff from my extra living rooms and one of the bedrooms before I can do that.  Then figure out living arrangements for some family members that are living with me.  But once I get to that point, I'll have room to set up 8 full sewing stations besides mine, a room with a big fabric cutting table and a smaller table, and another room for storing fabric and such.  

Anyways.  Let me know if you have any questions.

Looking back over that list, I really wish someone had handed me a list like that when I first got started.  It would have saved me a ton of time I spent on researching what to get.  

You don't really need much to start sewing.  That list seems like alot of stuff, but you don't NEED all of it, not at first at least.  

One other thing I'd look out for is deals on thread at thrift stores.  I've scored big bags of random thread spools at thrift stores, for instance, one of the bags had probably 50 regular spools of various regular threads.  And a half dozen smaller industrial sized spools.  Another had a half dozen big 16oz industrial spools of thread, including a couple heavy duty bonded nylon ones  (both bright yellow though)  -  I think I got those bags for something like $5 each.  You can also find people selling big sets of thread like that on ebay.  If you aren't picky on color, I've seen some really good deals on multiple big spools of good thread for just a few dollars.

EDIT:

Examples of cheap lots of thread.  That last one, with the ton of spools, that will give you a good start with various thread colors to handle random clothing projects and such if you can get the bid cheap.  I've seen lots like this go for a bottom dollar bid.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285720623362

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285775309716

And finally, this is a decent deal on good, american made bonded nylon thread in the size you need for tactical gear.  This is one of the big industrial spools - you will need that thread hanger I linked in the post above.  This is a decent color that works ok with most of the camos and earth tones used in tactical gear.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162724554068

Good stuff.  Not much to add.  Maybe look at some kind of "hot knife" cutting tool for working in synthetics as we do.  You can just use a lighter but a hot knife gives you a little better precision.  Also I am a big proponent of cheap scissors, replaced on a regular basis.   LED lights are the shit.  With a mag base you can put them anywhere/everywhere.  Amazon/ebay are your friends.  

Just did this so wanted to add.  Barge cement works great for nylon repairs.  Also the old McNett Seam Grip, if you can find it.  

You should use seam rippers.  I use no. 11 x-acto knife and I probably shouldn't.

Just wanted to add my two cents. Marnsdorff and Diz are definitely more SMEs, but I would be a good representative of the novice. In the past year I’ve made my own PLCE and my own pack.  Echoing what they’ve said, having the right tools for the job make a world of difference. Cordura Nylon is the one constant in this gear, so having the right thread is paramount. I’ve made my projects with a Singer 4452. It’s not a Juki by any means, but it’s definitely got the job done. Using binder clips to hold pieces together makes life so much easier.  A twenty pack at Staples is dirt cheap.  The small thread cutter scissors make it easier to work with when clearing your material off the machine. I got a cheap multi pack off of eBay years ago that have been great.  The chalk beats any of the fancy markers I’ve tried hands down.  I’m sure there is some super fancy one that is better, but can’t imagine the price is worth it for an occasional project.  Instead of seam rippers, I got a 100 pack of razor blades from Harbor Freight for a couple bucks.  It is a little more risky, but they are incredibly sharp and since they’re so cheap, as soon as it doesn’t cut like a hot knife through butter, I replace it.  And speaking of cutting, a hot knife is a fantastic investment. When I made my PLCE, I used a rotary cutter.  Because of the Cordura, I had to change blades frequently. The hot knife is so much faster, seals the edge, and reduces prep time by a whole lot. Bias tape/grosgrain is the tricky one.  I have not even come close to mastering it.  Straight runs aren’t bad. I iron it to hold the crease, then clip it in place with binder clips.  Curves and corners are tricky to put it mildly.  I still need to get a attachment for my machine, I’m sure that will make it easier.  Bottom line is, you can get into this for less than $200 I would say (not counting material for your projects). It’s definitely a great investment and a fun hobby.  And I have to say thanks again to Diz and Marnsdorff for their help, guidance, and suggestions.

@marnsdorff  @Diz  @cap6888

Thank you all for your help and time.  I can guess at the time it takes to make lengthy/useful posts with specific links and pix.  I owe you all a debt, and I'll try to repay it in the future.

Speaking to marnsdorff's post above: The motor suggested is a slight but definite improvement in Amperage/power over existing motor (which has an unknown amount of life left) so it's on order, along with the pedal.

Being retired, I have a lot of time to research things, such as projects like this, but it is extremely helpful in having someone more knowledgeable help point the way and correct mistakes on my part before the mistakes are made, and needless expense is incurred.  Not to mention reducing time wasted.

By what I can only call good luck on my part (since I'm Ignorant of sewing), virtually all of the exact same items marnsdorff suggested above had somehow found their way into my "want list" on Amazon.  My good, but ignorant guesses, and his expertise are simultaneously confirmed, LOL!  I'll be hitting the "buy" button on a number of items.

Your collective good advice has saved me a lot of time and expense.  I am very grateful.

 

Hot cutting knife is on my short list, but I need a big cutting table setup to do that first.  Right now room is a premium for me, I have a serious lack of space to work, as I have 3 households of furniture stuffed into my house - I had to move multiple family units in with me over the last few years.  So I'm stuffed into working at my desk basically.  Try dealing with unraveling and cutting 10 yards of fabric on a 2' x 3' area, lol.  Top priority for me is getting a storage unit built, moving furniture out of 2 of my living rooms into there, and moving a couple family members out to their own place so that I can free up a bedroom or two and actually set up a real shop.  But yes.  Hot cutting knife.

Yea I've mostly gone the cheap scissors route.  You can get a decent LED light with the magnetic base for $10 off of Amazon, they are definitely worth it.  

Barge cement!  Worth having around for shoe repair too.  Everyone should have a tin of barge cement and a tube of Shoe Goo for repairing shoes (and other stuff).  They pay for themselves the first time you use them.

You want an exacto knife too - there are things that a seam ripper can't do.  But you have a MUCH higher chance of screwing stuff up using one.  I also use an exacto knife to cut the little holes for those built-in-to-the-fabric fastex buckles.  Though they do make a 'button hole cutter' knife that should work better that I'm eventually going to try instead.

A "button hole cutter" would be useful.  However, anyone can go to Harbor Freight and buy (1) a set of hole punches, and (2) a set of wood chisels.  Might be less expensive and more generally useful for other projects.  One thing about HF hole cutters is that they seldom come both sharp and properly "trimmed" at right angles to the shank of the hole cutter.  A belt sander and/or disc sander is perfect for trimming them and then sharpening them, since they WILL get dull.

Buttonhole Scissors might also be useful.  See Here   The scissors linked have a small, threaded "Stop Disc" which "locks" the adjustment.  A lot of buttonhole scissors lack the "stop disc" and finding a replacement one, given very small (and perhaps metric thread) might be difficult.  Just found my Mom's pair; will stand sharpening, which I can do.

Another useful item might be a "Bodkin" which is used to pull drawstrings and such through closed tunnels in fabric.  Here's an example of a KIT  Just found a bunch of old ones, of various styles.  Some appear to be either Ivory or perhaps whale bone, some metal.

Oh, I'm still very much the novice at this stuff.  I just jumped in full bore into it, I learn extremely quickly, I already knew the very basics of sewing  (thank you mother for forcing me to learn to sew as a kid!  It's been far more useful than those dumb piano lessons...), and I understand alot about tactical gear.  There are other guys who know much more about actual sewing than I do.  I've been learning the specific steps I need to do to do the specific items I have been making .  Every time I do something new, I have to teach myself that stuff.  I've been dabbling in clothing stuff, and that's a very different kind of sewing than the tactical gear.  Yes, you put stitches down the same basic way, but the design, the seams, etc. are all done differently or with different variations at least.





My first stuff wasn't done on an industrial machine either.  I was swinging for the fences though (as you did with your pack) and pushed my machine to the limit, thus why I needed a better machine.  Plus I realized I liked it alot and wanted to make this a business in the end.  If you are careful in what you are trying to achieve, you'd be surprised what the nicer domestic machines, especially the older ones, will do.  




I haven't had to change a blade yet on my rotary cutter?  And I don't use markers alot - and when I do, it's usually one of the little micro-tip sharpies.  They ARE good for some very specific markings.  But I've switched over to mostly using chalk.




Binding tape is the bane of my existence.  Well, the inverse curves are.  I'm starting to get it down, but still.  I need to get a 2nd machine set up with a permanent attachment.  It's a pain swapping the attachment out on mine all the time.

Regular corners are easy.  You just have to make the folds ahead of time, hold the folds in place with one of those little plastic clips, then slowly move the foot and the needle over it, pushing the little clip out of the way, making sure to not unravel the folds.  If the folds do unravel, then use your little sewing machine screwdriver or a seam ripper point to push it back into place under the foot.  




If you pick up a thrift store special machine, you can get into it for like $50.  You don't even need all the stuff I mentioned above - machine, needles, thread, fabric, and a pair of scissors.  That is the basics you need to start.  

And yea, don't worry.  I like helping people and I really really do think that we need to bring sewing knowledge back to the masses in the USA.  We are going to need it in the future.

It's not only a new motor + more power.  You are upgrading 2 other things with the new motor and pedal.  The motor is a newer design that puts out power in a much smoother way than the old engines.  Additionally, the pedal is a significant upgrade - the old pedals had something like 5 little  'plates'  in the pedal.  And as you pushed down on the pedal, it would make connection with one of the plates, then the next, etc.  Meaning that your machine basically only had 5 or whatever speeds.  The newer pedals are electronic pressure sensitive, and allow you more control over the speed, as the pedal is much more sensitive to your pressure.  It's worth the upgrade.  I'd keep the old motor and pedal as backup anyways.  

Also, on a side note, your machine is also probably convertible to be used on a treadle, you know, the oldschool 'powered by your foot' stuff, using no electricity.  I think that's pretty cool.  






Like I said, I wish someone had come along and gave me a cheat sheet like this of stuff to get you up and running on a budget.  I looked and looked and looked online, and while I found good advice, no one was putting the whole picture in one post.  Or they would just list generic stuff  'get some scissors, get some thread', etc.  Or it was clickbait  'top 10 things you need to sew!'

I'm guessing people who are really experienced in this forget that newbies have no idea what XYZ thing is or does.  For instance, thread types and sizes and such.  There are something like 3 different measurements for thread.  ie, the T69 thread we use alot with this stuff.  T69 is one measurement.  Gutterman thread, for instance, a popular thread for sewing clothing and some gear - they do make decent stuff - their measurement system they use is different.  They usually don't call it T69.  

Sewing thread for leatherwork is measured in a completely different way too.

So yea, no problem helping you bro.  Hopefully we both can pass on this knowledge to more newbies, and so on.

lol, I literally have a set of pull-throughs in my amazon cart to buy.  I still have to run paracord through the rain covers on those buttpacks I made, and I did one by hand and it was a pain.

Here's the button hole thing I was talking about.  It's basically a tiny chisel.  I need to make sure it's the same length as the slits I'm cutting, but yea.  Something like that would be far easier than using the exacto knife.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B7S3LA/