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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:21:53 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nipster74: I think raf is right. A dark almost black could be obtained. I've had really good luck just leaving items in the bucket, weighted down so they don't float, for an hour of so. If I ever get around to it I'll post some photos of stuff I've dyed. That being said, ILBE and Molle Packs are super dirt cheap and you could probably save yourself the hassle of messing with dye. I may still give it a go. I was planning to use an oyster roaster instead of a washing machine; prep the fabric real good with white vinegar, get the pot good and hot, add the dye and let it simmer for an hour or so... This pack is irreplaceable; super simple, perfect size, and excellent quality and comfort. It's a legendary pack among climbers so I'm keeping it. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 10/22/2014 12:00:07 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RTUtah:
I may still give it a go. I was planning to use an oyster roaster instead of a washing machine; prep the fabric real good with white vinegar, get the pot good and hot, add the dye and let it simmer for an hour or so... This pack is irreplaceable; super simple, perfect size, and excellent quality and comfort. It's a legendary pack among climbers so I'm keeping it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By nipster74:
I think raf is right. A dark almost black could be obtained. I've had really good luck just leaving items in the bucket, weighted down so they don't float, for an hour of so. If I ever get around to it I'll post some photos of stuff I've dyed. That being said, ILBE and Molle Packs are super dirt cheap and you could probably save yourself the hassle of messing with dye. I may still give it a go. I was planning to use an oyster roaster instead of a washing machine; prep the fabric real good with white vinegar, get the pot good and hot, add the dye and let it simmer for an hour or so... This pack is irreplaceable; super simple, perfect size, and excellent quality and comfort. It's a legendary pack among climbers so I'm keeping it. I'd been using the sink method for awhile and had gotten some good results but my last batch I did was done with the bucket method. I put a couple of pots of water on and got them to almost boiling then poured them into the bucket added the dye and topped it out with hot tap water. Stuck my gear in and used a piece of PVC pipe to stir it around for about 1/2 hour then I just let it all sit for about an hour submerged in the solution. I was dying DCU and coyote brown with dark green and it came out pretty good. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 10/22/2014 4:36:38 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nipster74:
I'd been using the sink method for awhile and had gotten some good results but my last batch I did was done with the bucket method. I put a couple of pots of water on and got them to almost boiling then poured them into the bucket added the dye and topped it out with hot tap water. Stuck my gear in and used a piece of PVC pipe to stir it around for about 1/2 hour then I just let it all sit for about an hour submerged in the solution. I was dying DCU and coyote brown with dark green and it came out pretty good. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nipster74:
Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By nipster74:
I think raf is right. A dark almost black could be obtained. I've had really good luck just leaving items in the bucket, weighted down so they don't float, for an hour of so. If I ever get around to it I'll post some photos of stuff I've dyed. That being said, ILBE and Molle Packs are super dirt cheap and you could probably save yourself the hassle of messing with dye. I may still give it a go. I was planning to use an oyster roaster instead of a washing machine; prep the fabric real good with white vinegar, get the pot good and hot, add the dye and let it simmer for an hour or so... This pack is irreplaceable; super simple, perfect size, and excellent quality and comfort. It's a legendary pack among climbers so I'm keeping it. I'd been using the sink method for awhile and had gotten some good results but my last batch I did was done with the bucket method. I put a couple of pots of water on and got them to almost boiling then poured them into the bucket added the dye and topped it out with hot tap water. Stuck my gear in and used a piece of PVC pipe to stir it around for about 1/2 hour then I just let it all sit for about an hour submerged in the solution. I was dying DCU and coyote brown with dark green and it came out pretty good. Pics of DCU rit dyed green? |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 5:31:59 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Caeser2001:
Pics of DCU rit dyed green? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Caeser2001:
Originally Posted By nipster74:
Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By nipster74:
I think raf is right. A dark almost black could be obtained. I've had really good luck just leaving items in the bucket, weighted down so they don't float, for an hour of so. If I ever get around to it I'll post some photos of stuff I've dyed. That being said, ILBE and Molle Packs are super dirt cheap and you could probably save yourself the hassle of messing with dye. I may still give it a go. I was planning to use an oyster roaster instead of a washing machine; prep the fabric real good with white vinegar, get the pot good and hot, add the dye and let it simmer for an hour or so... This pack is irreplaceable; super simple, perfect size, and excellent quality and comfort. It's a legendary pack among climbers so I'm keeping it. I'd been using the sink method for awhile and had gotten some good results but my last batch I did was done with the bucket method. I put a couple of pots of water on and got them to almost boiling then poured them into the bucket added the dye and topped it out with hot tap water. Stuck my gear in and used a piece of PVC pipe to stir it around for about 1/2 hour then I just let it all sit for about an hour submerged in the solution. I was dying DCU and coyote brown with dark green and it came out pretty good. Pics of DCU rit dyed green? E-tool carrier, pic 1 in my first post, pg 1 |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 10/23/2014 10:21:01 PM EDT
[#5]
I need to get some pix up and posted.
But til then, my DCU MSS carrier was dyed twice in the sink for about 1/2 hour each. Never was satisfied with the color. Then I did a third go round with the bucket method. After agitation, I left it sitting in the solution for about an hour. |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 10/24/2014 7:45:29 PM EDT
[#6]
Here is photo of some Molle DCU pattern shoulder straps and waist belt that I dyed with the RIT product. I went to the local craft store and bought some pre dye conditioner and used it with the dye. I placed the items in a 5 gallon bucket of hot water with the dye as directed. I left it in for about 45 minutes until I got the desired results.
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IN, USA
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Posted: 10/24/2014 8:11:40 PM EDT
[#7]
I never really thought about RIT on gear but I used it on a Glock one time.
 I could not stand that ceracoat green or whatever it was so off to the sand blaster I went. Plain old rit black.  |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 8:22:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: raf]
[#8]
I try to take all my pix outdoors, under natural light, and in the shade, as I have found that that gives the best (although sometimes imperfect) picture. If discrepancies between pic and eyeball are observed, I try to compensate with text comments.
I have found that most indoor, artificial light pix are far from representative of the final item, and I don't post such pix. With near boiling water/dye solution, and a decent dye concentration, I have found that most DCU and UCP items are dyed within minutes, given constant agitation. Agitation is the key. When agitated, the item picks up the dye quickly, when the item and the solution are both hot, and dye transference is optimal. With a cool solution, and/or without agitation, results are far less than optimal. Just letting the item sit in a steadily cooling dye solution, without agitation does not allow the item to come in contact with enough of the dye, nor in the most effective manner, since the item and the dye solution are not at the optimal temperature. In addition, agitation serves to expose the entire item to the dye solution, thus preventing portions of the item from not being exposed adequately to the dye solution. The secret to dyeing is HOT dye solution, sufficient concentration of dye, and be prepared to yank the item once the desired shade is reached. Simple as that. Again, even a whole pack just takes minutes to dye green, not an hour. See my post in the EE on LBT ACU pack dyed green. That dye job took about 15 minutes, tops. But that was with HOT dye solution, and constant agitation, using rubber gloves and tongs/spatulas. (Giving myself an exception about mentioning an item for sale outside the EE because it is directly pertinent, and also a great illustration of what a poster needs to know). |
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Posted: 12/7/2014 2:44:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: raf]
[#9]
ABU uniform, dyed with straight Rit Taupe dye; Note that these appear considerably browner and darker to the eye than in picture. The dark and medium splotches are still grey-greenish, but the lighter areas are about a Flat Dark Earth color. Quite pleased with the results.
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Un-dyed ABU: |
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Posted: 5/17/2015 5:54:55 PM EDT
[#10]
Bump, because some folks might not have seen.
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Posted: 5/17/2015 8:41:46 PM EDT
[#11]
Tag
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/25/2015 6:04:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Will]
[#12]
Several years ago we had a great thread on dying the Desert FLC's. I did one that turned out pretty well, darker, covered in grenade pouches for my Garands.
I am thinking about doing an ACU coat- which I like as a field garment, cheap and very practical...... Here's my thought though- when I did my FLC I learned that if the material is not well exposed to the dye (I had a strap that was rolled on itself and it didn't change at all) that you will not get even coverage....That "accident" gave me an idea...Could I do a "tye die" type camo pattern using different colors, dying each one separately, by tying the jacket in knots? Would this give me something like the ATACS pattern? Thoughts? |
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KS, USA
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Posted: 5/26/2015 1:07:01 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Will:
Several years ago we had a great thread on dying the Desert FLC's. I did one that turned out pretty well, darker, covered in grenade pouches for my Garands. I am thinking about doing an ACU coat- which I like as a field garment, cheap and very practical...... Here's my thought though- when I did my FLC I learned that if the material is not well exposed to the dye (I had a strap that was rolled on itself and it didn't change at all) that you will not get even coverage....That "accident" gave me an idea...Could I do a "tye die" type camo pattern using different colors, dying each one separately, by tying the jacket in knots? Would this give me something like the ATACS pattern? Thoughts? That is a great idea. Perhaps dye the entire garment with a green shade and then tie dye it with a brown. |
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Posted: 5/26/2015 6:15:47 AM EDT
[#14]
The Rit site has a lot of suggestion and instructions about tie-dying. I have no experience with doing so, but I would begin by reading-up there, and then doing some test items. Remember that you will not be dyeing nylon-only field gear, but clothing containing a fair amount of cotton. One difference is that instead of adding vinegar to the nylon-dyeing solution, one would add salt. Another difference is that unlike nylon gear, where what you see is what you get, cotton-based clothing usually comes from the dye bath much darker than after it has dried. Have a wet sample of what you are dyeing to act as a guide of sorts.
Read up FIRST.. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/26/2015 6:49:51 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By raf:
The Rit site has a lot of suggestion and instructions about tie-dying. I have no experience with doing so, but I would begin by reading-up there, and then doing some test items. Remember that you will not be dyeing nylon-only field gear, but clothing containing a fair amount of cotton. One difference is that instead of adding vinegar to the nylon-dyeing solution, one would add salt. Another difference is that unlike nylon gear, where what you see is what you get, cotton-based clothing usually comes from the dye bath much darker than after it has dried. Have a wet sample of what you are dyeing to act as a guide of sorts. Read up FIRST.. I guess since it's my idea, I'll give it a try. It will take me awhile as my free time is pretty limited right now. What suggestions for colors? The Apple and Taupe? Or, since I'm doing cotton mix should I go with a darker brown? When I did my FLC I used salt to "set" the dye, it worked pretty well. I hope it works as I really like the Combat Jackets, lots of pockets and just the right weight for much of Texas weather in the fall with a T shirt under them.......You can buy them all day long on Ebay for under $15.....that's a lot cheaper than a Massif Combat Shirt at $60......A pretty good value. |
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Posted: 5/26/2015 7:18:09 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Will:
I guess since it's my idea, I'll give it a try. It will take me awhile as my free time is pretty limited right now. What suggestions for colors? The Apple and Taupe? Or, since I'm doing cotton mix should I go with a darker brown? When I did my FLC I used salt to "set" the dye, it worked pretty well. I hope it works as I really like the Combat Jackets, lots of pockets and just the right weight for much of Texas weather in the fall with a T shirt under them.......You can buy them all day long on Ebay for under $15.....that's a lot cheaper than a Massif Combat Shirt at $60......A pretty good value. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Will:
Originally Posted By raf:
The Rit site has a lot of suggestion and instructions about tie-dying. I have no experience with doing so, but I would begin by reading-up there, and then doing some test items. Remember that you will not be dyeing nylon-only field gear, but clothing containing a fair amount of cotton. One difference is that instead of adding vinegar to the nylon-dyeing solution, one would add salt. Another difference is that unlike nylon gear, where what you see is what you get, cotton-based clothing usually comes from the dye bath much darker than after it has dried. Have a wet sample of what you are dyeing to act as a guide of sorts. Read up FIRST.. I guess since it's my idea, I'll give it a try. It will take me awhile as my free time is pretty limited right now. What suggestions for colors? The Apple and Taupe? Or, since I'm doing cotton mix should I go with a darker brown? When I did my FLC I used salt to "set" the dye, it worked pretty well. I hope it works as I really like the Combat Jackets, lots of pockets and just the right weight for much of Texas weather in the fall with a T shirt under them.......You can buy them all day long on Ebay for under $15.....that's a lot cheaper than a Massif Combat Shirt at $60......A pretty good value. I'd suggest 4 parts apple green to 1 part dark green for a "grass-green" color, and taupe for any sort of brown. I'm very leery of using any of Rit's browns because of the reddish color that usually results. The apple green, dk green, and taupe have all worked well on nylon gear, and the browns have NOT. In addition, I have used Rit Apple Green, Dk Green, and Taupe on ACUs with good results. Use enough dye. Follow the instructions on Rit site about weighing the items, and use the recommended amount of dye, or maybe a little more. Since you will probably be using HOT water, make sure that the items are large enough to accommodate some shrinking. Please post your results. However, you are dyeing cotton-based material, so it is possible that some of Rit's browns will work OK with that medium. Remember, you can always re-dye if the result is too light, but you can't go lighter. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/26/2015 8:21:50 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By raf:
I'd suggest 4 parts apple green to 1 part dark green for a "grass-green" color, and taupe for any sort of brown. I'm very leery of using any of Rit's browns because of the reddish color that usually results. The apple green, dk green, and taupe have all worked well on nylon gear, and the browns have NOT. In addition, I have used Rit Apple Green, Dk Green, and Taupe on ACUs with good results. Use enough dye. Follow the instructions on Rit site about weighing the items, and use the recommended amount of dye, or maybe a little more. Since you will probably be using HOT water, make sure that the items are large enough to accommodate some shrinking. Please post your results. However, you are dyeing cotton-based material, so it is possible that some of Rit's browns will work OK with that medium. Remember, you can always re-dye if the result is too light, but you can't go lighter. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By raf:
Originally Posted By Will:
Originally Posted By raf:
The Rit site has a lot of suggestion and instructions about tie-dying. I have no experience with doing so, but I would begin by reading-up there, and then doing some test items. Remember that you will not be dyeing nylon-only field gear, but clothing containing a fair amount of cotton. One difference is that instead of adding vinegar to the nylon-dyeing solution, one would add salt. Another difference is that unlike nylon gear, where what you see is what you get, cotton-based clothing usually comes from the dye bath much darker than after it has dried. Have a wet sample of what you are dyeing to act as a guide of sorts. Read up FIRST.. I guess since it's my idea, I'll give it a try. It will take me awhile as my free time is pretty limited right now. What suggestions for colors? The Apple and Taupe? Or, since I'm doing cotton mix should I go with a darker brown? When I did my FLC I used salt to "set" the dye, it worked pretty well. I hope it works as I really like the Combat Jackets, lots of pockets and just the right weight for much of Texas weather in the fall with a T shirt under them.......You can buy them all day long on Ebay for under $15.....that's a lot cheaper than a Massif Combat Shirt at $60......A pretty good value. I'd suggest 4 parts apple green to 1 part dark green for a "grass-green" color, and taupe for any sort of brown. I'm very leery of using any of Rit's browns because of the reddish color that usually results. The apple green, dk green, and taupe have all worked well on nylon gear, and the browns have NOT. In addition, I have used Rit Apple Green, Dk Green, and Taupe on ACUs with good results. Use enough dye. Follow the instructions on Rit site about weighing the items, and use the recommended amount of dye, or maybe a little more. Since you will probably be using HOT water, make sure that the items are large enough to accommodate some shrinking. Please post your results. However, you are dyeing cotton-based material, so it is possible that some of Rit's browns will work OK with that medium. Remember, you can always re-dye if the result is too light, but you can't go lighter. Definitely hot water, I used a fish cooker in the driveway and poured the boiling water into a 5 gallon pail with the dye and FLC when I did it. Worked well..... |
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Posted: 5/26/2015 9:13:20 PM EDT
[#18]
Swiss M83 Fruity pajamas original on right, dyed on left
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Posted: 5/26/2015 9:14:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: primuspilum]
[#19]
Massif combat shirt, sort of UCP Delta ish (ETA reposted 6/22/19)
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Posted: 5/26/2015 9:16:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: primuspilum]
[#20]
British surplus desert combat shirts. Both dyed, compared to DCU camo (ETA reposted 6/22/19)
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Posted: 5/26/2015 9:17:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: primuspilum]
[#21]
GI Massif combat shirt formerly UCP, now Dark Green and black 50/50 mix Irrc (reposted 6/22/19)
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Posted: 5/26/2015 9:19:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: primuspilum]
[#22]
Army issue UCP pattern ACU pants 2 parts pearl gray 1 part dark green (ETA reposted 6/22/19)
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USA
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Posted: 5/27/2015 7:19:28 PM EDT
[#23]
Going to pull the trigger on this, but I am worried about putting pants into boiling water and having them shrink? DannerDrax
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WA, USA
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Posted: 5/28/2015 3:04:59 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By primuspilum:
GI Massif combat shirt formerly UCP, now Dark Green and black 50/50 mix Irrc http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy309/toecutter_01/bdu%20updates%201/004.jpg Damn, that shirt turned out great ! |
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Posted: 6/3/2015 2:50:55 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tacklenut:
Here is photo of some Molle DCU pattern shoulder straps and waist belt that I dyed with the RIT product. I went to the local craft store and bought some pre dye conditioner and used it with the dye. I placed the items in a 5 gallon bucket of hot water with the dye as directed. I left it in for about 45 minutes until I got the desired results. <a href="http://s672.photobucket.com/user/Victor23_photos/media/Alicemolledyed.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/Victor23_photos/Alicemolledyed.jpg</a> Nice, sorta looks like LBT's MAS Grey gear. |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 10/11/2015 2:19:34 PM EDT
[#26]
Anybody try this yet?
https://www.ritstudio.com/2015/04/15/announcing-rit-dyemore-rits-new-polyester-dye/ I want a uniform shirt carrier, but can't afford a new one. Thinking about buying a light blue one cheap an dying it midnight blue / black. |
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Posted: 10/12/2015 4:53:36 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By high_order1:
Anybody try this yet? https://www.ritstudio.com/2015/04/15/announcing-rit-dyemore-rits-new-polyester-dye/ I want a uniform shirt carrier, but can't afford a new one. Thinking about buying a light blue one cheap an dying it midnight blue / black. Looks like a good experiment, on the righe material.. I'd read-up real closely, on what it's supposed to do. |
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Posted: 4/2/2016 11:58:03 PM EDT
[#28]
Finally decided to dye my camelbak motherlode from foliage green to OD, and for whatever reason, it turned out foliage green
 . The dye just didn't take to the nylon at all.
Next experiment will be spray paint I suppose. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 4/5/2016 4:13:21 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By csrevenant:
Finally decided to dye my camelbak motherlode from foliage green to OD, and for whatever reason, it turned out foliage green . The dye just didn't take to the nylon at all.
Next experiment will be spray paint I suppose. Did you add vinegar?? I've always had good luck dyeing nylon gear. But usually it's either desert or coyote to a green shade. |
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Posted: 4/5/2016 6:04:55 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By csrevenant:
Finally decided to dye my camelbak motherlode from foliage green to OD, and for whatever reason, it turned out foliage green . The dye just didn't take to the nylon at all.
Next experiment will be spray paint I suppose. All is not lost. For one thing, you did not mention using vinegar, which aids absorption of the dye in nylon items. Secondly, the dye bath must be brought to a boil, and the wetted item inserted and turned-over/stirred so that dye reaches all of the fabric. Thirdly, perhaps you did not use enough dye. To go from FG to OD, it seems to me that a considerable amount of dye might be required, almost certainly much more than the required amount that the weight of the fabric alone would call for. It is possible that your pack was treated with DWR, which would serve to inhibit dye absorption. I don't know how to remove that except by washing thenpack in some sort of water with a solvent that removed the DWR. Dunno what that might be, but I would try some sort of dish soap without the brighteners that are so often found in clothing detergents. At any rate, using dark green dye, I reckon the likely result would be some form of Ranger Green (there being two), not true OD. Apple Green might be a possible alternative, it being a bit lighter than Dark Green. Of course, I've not tried this myself, so this all speculative on my part. I think I'd go for using Apple Green, and plenty of it. Maybe 4 powder packs in a 2-1/2 gal pot. Remember What you see is what you get, with nylon, so pull the item once it is the slightest tinch darker than desired. Don't forget the vinegar. BTW, this size of dyed item will require elbow-length gloves, suitable tongs/turning tools and forget about doing this indoors. You WILL splash dye around, so set up an outdoors spot, and don't wear shoes or pants that you don't want splashed with dye. |
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Posted: 4/5/2016 6:11:12 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By raf: It is possible that your pack was treated with DWR, which would serve to inhibit dye absorption. I don't know how to remove that except by washing thenpack in some sort of water with a solvent that removed the DWR. Dunno what that might be, but I would try some sort of dish soap without the brighteners that are so often found in clothing detergents. Perhaps drycleaning would remove the DWR? |
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Posted: 4/5/2016 7:08:41 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher:
Perhaps drycleaning would remove the DWR? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher:
Originally Posted By raf: It is possible that your pack was treated with DWR, which would serve to inhibit dye absorption. I don't know how to remove that except by washing thenpack in some sort of water with a solvent that removed the DWR. Dunno what that might be, but I would try some sort of dish soap without the brighteners that are so often found in clothing detergents. Perhaps drycleaning would remove the DWR? Hmmmmn. Might be a good idea. As long as the cleaning agent is OK for nylon. Older ear is likely to have the DWR worn-off by use/age. Newer high-end gear might need to have DWR removed before the dye will take. |
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Posted: 4/5/2016 9:02:12 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By raf:
Hmmmmn. Might be a good idea. As long as the cleaning agent is OK for nylon. Older ear is likely to have the DWR worn-off by use/age. Newer high-end gear might need to have DWR removed before the dye will take. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By raf:
Originally Posted By backbencher:
Originally Posted By raf: It is possible that your pack was treated with DWR, which would serve to inhibit dye absorption. I don't know how to remove that except by washing thenpack in some sort of water with a solvent that removed the DWR. Dunno what that might be, but I would try some sort of dish soap without the brighteners that are so often found in clothing detergents. Perhaps drycleaning would remove the DWR? Hmmmmn. Might be a good idea. As long as the cleaning agent is OK for nylon. Older ear is likely to have the DWR worn-off by use/age. Newer high-end gear might need to have DWR removed before the dye will take. I've considered drycleaning for my FRACUs, to remove the permethrin - I figure that can't be good for you, but I've not run out of ACUs to wear yet. I only wear my FRACUs when I fly. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 4/5/2016 9:15:19 PM EDT
[#34]
I'd mix a little black with green to deepen the color a little. Not too much black as it is very heavy. Start with a little and go from there, trial and error unfortunately.
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PA, USA
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Posted: 6/23/2016 6:36:11 PM EDT
[#35]
Does anyone with dyed ucp have a pvs14 to take pics with at night?
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FL, USA
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Posted: 6/23/2016 9:28:15 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Caeser2001:
Does anyone with dyed ucp have a pvs14 to take pics with at night? I think someone on here has NVG photos. I'm not sure who or if it was UCP. |
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Posted: 6/23/2016 10:37:20 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Caeser2001:
Does anyone with dyed ucp have a pvs14 to take pics with at night? Rit Dye does not have any brightening effect when viewed with NVDs. There are, or at least were, threads in the NV forum about this. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 6/26/2016 11:38:34 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By raf:
Rit Dye does not have any brightening effect when viewed with NVDs. There are, or at least were, threads in the NV forum about this. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By raf:
Originally Posted By Caeser2001:
Does anyone with dyed ucp have a pvs14 to take pics with at night? Rit Dye does not have any brightening effect when viewed with NVDs. There are, or at least were, threads in the NV forum about this. I knew I'd seen them somewhere. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 7/19/2016 3:48:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: M3G4L17H]
[#39]
Any dye suggestions for those of us in the southern US that live in a deciduous pine forest? I picked up a LBT 1961 in ABU off of eBay and it's too light (the color I mean).
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Posted: 7/21/2016 3:51:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: raf]
[#40]
There's plenty of pix in my posts showing the results of Army Universal Camo being dyed. It's a bit lighter than ABU to begin with, but the results ought to be similar, with dyed ABU being a bit darker than the AUC, all things being equal.
I'd get a couple of ABU pouches and test dye them before dyeing the vest. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 7/22/2016 12:15:21 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By raf:
There's plenty of pix in my posts showing the results of Army Universal Camo being dyed. It's a bit lighter than ABU to begin with, but the results ought to be similar, with dyed ABU being a bit darker than the AUC, all things being equal. I'd get a couple of ABU pouches and test dye them before dyeing the vest. Thank ya sir! |
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Posted: 12/14/2016 5:34:15 PM EDT
[#42]
Some new pix coming of items bought from Entrygear.com, TacticalTailor.com, and Lbtinc.com since they are all having current sales on UCP gear. Personally, I'd rate the BAE/Eclipse gear from EG as superior in construction quality to both LBT and TT. YMMV, but I've seen, handled, and bought the BAE/Eclipse gear as well as the others. Stout stuff, and extremely well made. Go to Entrygear.com, and examine the very nice pix of the gear. Again, stoutly made stuff, and perhaps not for the light fighter.
disclaimer: no financial interest |
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Posted: 2/12/2017 8:32:28 PM EDT
[#43]
raf - I recently bought some Magpul 20 rounders in "Sand" color, which is to say, WHITE, LOL. Planning on dying these along with some other 3-color desert gear in this thread. Do you see any issue with how you would prep the dye solution? I'd like to do the mags, then the soft gear...
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Posted: 2/15/2017 3:03:14 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Morg308:
raf - I recently bought some Magpul 20 rounders in "Sand" color, which is to say, WHITE, LOL. Planning on dying these along with some other 3-color desert gear in this thread. Do you see any issue with how you would prep the dye solution? I'd like to do the mags, then the soft gear... |
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Posted: 2/17/2017 3:08:04 PM EDT
[#45]
Just a tip about colors if you are planning to hunt deer.
Deer can see blues, violets, and greys really well, to the point that they will stick out drastically to them. They have 310° field of view in the same focal plane, and are very good at detecting movement. If you have any grey in your camp, it shines like UV blue to them, and you'll get burned. What Whitetails Can Really See |
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Posted: 2/17/2017 3:52:09 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By LRRPF52:
Just a tip about colors if you are planning to hunt deer. Deer can see blues, violets, and greys really well, to the point that they will stick out drastically to them. They have 310° field of view in the same focal plane, and are very good at detecting movement. If you have any grey in your camp, it shines like UV blue to them, and you'll get burned. What Whitetails Can Really See All the more reason to dye foliage green items greener, and UCP into something that is either greener or browner than the original. OTOH, if you're concerned with only the human eye, foliage green is pretty good for a "gray man" color in the city. This link, which I've posted before, lists the detergents that the Army recommends. The approved ones do not have optical brighteners which are not only quite visible to deer, but which also show up quite well when seen under many night vision devices: Army Approved Detergents. I would also note that experiments done on the NVD forum here have shown that nylon gear dyed with Rit dye has no observable increase in visibility when seen using NVDs. If deer see things, including most camo as blobs, then this camo pattern might be effective: ASAT Camo. If, as the article claims, deer don't see red very well at all, then the classic red plaid camo might be effective, as well as offering a hunter safety benefit. |
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MD, USA
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Posted: 11/16/2017 11:21:31 AM EDT
[#47]
Any success with dyeing gray gear black? First thought would be that it should work fine since black is, well black. But not sure if colors would somehow become a dark gray or other color.
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Posted: 11/16/2017 3:52:20 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cap6888:
Any success with dyeing gray gear black? First thought would be that it should work fine since black is, well black. But not sure if colors would somehow become a dark gray or other color. |
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Posted: 4/8/2018 4:09:11 PM EDT
[#49]
Bump for those who have not seen this thread.
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MD, USA
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Posted: 4/9/2018 8:09:06 AM EDT
[#50]
I’m not at home to add a picture, but I dyed a wolf gray pouch black. The zipper still stayed gray. As far as looks, it’s a nice contrast. I used two bottles of black RIT dye. It definitely took the color well.
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