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4/24/2014 5:03:45 PM EDT
Hello all,
I have a synthetic stock that I wish to shorten. I apparently have short arms that require an awkward stance for shooting. So I want to cut the stock but do not want it to splinter or crack.

These are the tools that are at my disposal:
Miter saw
Jig saw
Rip hand saw
Dremel
palm sander and a file set.

How would u go about it? I've considered getting a new fine tooth blade for my miter saw and creating a jig to rest the stock on to make it level to prevent a beveled cut. Let me know what you think please!

Frageman.
4/24/2014 9:02:02 AM EDT
[#1]
Get a lwrc ultra compact stock
4/24/2014 9:05:56 AM EDT
[#2]
I am trying to do this on the cheap and do not have the cash right now to buy a new stock. Want to change the one I have. And an adjustable stock is not an option either.
4/24/2014 9:17:50 AM EDT
[#3]
Is this for an AR15?? The A1 butt stocks are 1/2 " shorter than the A2 stocks.
4/24/2014 9:55:14 AM EDT
[#4]
It's actually for a mossberg 500 stock. But I figured I could post on here due to similar synthetic components in standard A1 stocks. This is why I cannot use an adjustable stock because of the need for a limbsaver pad.
4/24/2014 5:42:54 PM EDT
[#5]
Look on the EE for a Hogue Mossberg 500/590 12" LOP stock. You can usually find them for $40-$50.
4/24/2014 7:21:05 PM EDT
[#6]
I've had two shotgun stocks cut, one a wood 870 and the other a synthetic (hollow) Super X2 stock.  Both times, the recoil pad had to be ground to fit.  

A miter saw was used, not sure what kind of blade was in there, but I know my friend didn't change out what was in there and he's not a trim carpenter.  

Make sure there is nothing inside the stock that can be damaged.  My Super X2 has the recoil assembly in there, so I could only take off about 3/4".
4/24/2014 7:41:40 PM EDT
[#7]
Thanks, there is nothing inside that could be damaged. I am only limited by the sling mount post at about 2 inches. I think I will be getting a trim finishing blade for my miter saw. The only concern now is keeping it level.

4/24/2014 8:37:41 PM EDT
[#8]
LOP should be the length that when you mount the gun in your normal stance puts the tip of your nose about two finger widths from the knuckle of your thumb.  Roughly around 1.5" or so.

For a general rule of thumb see THIS

Once you determine the correct length, measure carefully and establish your cut-to line with masking tape all the way around the butt.  Then use whatever you have (I use a hand miter saw) to cut just shy of your cut-to line (1/16" or so).  Go slow!  Once you get your rough cut done, tape a piece of sandpaper (80 grit or so) to a piece of plate glass.  Then just slowly sand the stock material down to the cut line by moving it over the paper on the glass.  Again, go slow, checking your work often.  Once done, just switch to a finer grit paper (220 or so) to finish it up.  Doing it this way takes a little time but going slow is key to getting good results.
4/25/2014 7:35:44 AM EDT
[#9]
Sounds like after you make the cut you are going to need to fill the stock with a material.  When you cut off the end you will be cutting off the screw holes.  You will need to drill the material or glue on your new recoil pad.  I would just buy a short Hogue stock or save the money for a magpul stock.  When you shoot with a short stock ride your thumb along the spine of the stock.  That will keep you from hitting your nose and keep your thumb near the safety.
4/25/2014 12:25:29 PM EDT
[#10]
gj,

It has the threaded section for the screws deep into the stock so cutting it off will not be an issue (only cutting about 2 inches).

lmaposer,
Thanks for the advise. I got a 180 tooth blade today for my miter saw and will take your advice on the tape and leaving some room for error.

Thanks guys for your input. Have a good day. Will try to post pics of the project
4/26/2014 2:57:23 PM EDT
[#11]
Here is the finished outcome. Could only get so far with the rubber butt pad being sanded since it has some sort of metal frame beneath it. Rounded it the best I could. Left a little bulk for more surface area contact. The most important thing was that the cut came out extremely straight since I cut a foam pillow for it to rest in as to prevent wiggle movement and mess up the cut.

Thanks for all your advice, it went very well. Slow and steady wins the race!

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