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Posted: 11/15/2008 4:03:02 AM EDT
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Every thread I read about the 870 someone complains about them being "rust magnets", which they are. Back in the day before matte finishes were popular and epoxy coating for guns were non-existent unless your gun was stainless it was polished bright blue. Anything caused rust on them, especially finger prints. An old time gun writer named Bob Milek, who hunted in every weather known to man, wrote an article about rust-proofing your hunting rifle. It' simple and works well. All my non-coated guns get this treatment.
Go to your local auto parts store and buy a can of the old style Turtle, green can, paste car wax. The newer liquid type waxes might work, I don't know as I have never tried them. A can of this wax will coat more guns that I can tell you, I've done dozens out of the same can and still have a lot left. Here's the procedure. 1. Dissemble the gun and strip all the oil off the external surfaces with acetone, brake cleaner or whatever you use, just get all the oil off. 2. Holding the pieces with a cloth or wear gloves to keep your skin oil off the metal, apply a coat, not thick just get it all covered, of the wax to all external surfaces, including the mag tube. You can use a rag for this, I use my fingers. Rub the wax into the metal well. Allow to dry for about 10-15 minutes, then buff it off by hand. You'll have to use an old tooth brush to get the wax out of any lettering. 3. Repeat step 2 for a total of 3 coats, making sure to buff well between. 4. Re-assemble gun. Total time on an 870 is less than an hour. The wax seals the metal and repels water even humidity, won't "float" off like oils will. It even protects against finger print rust. I've got an 870 Express I carry daily and use on the range as a training gun. I did this to it two years ago and since then have used that same gun in all kinds of weather. NO RUST. Gun solvent will remove the wax, so you might have to touch up an area or two if your not careful when cleaning. Try it, you'll like it.  
Rob |
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Waxing hard-used guns is well known and has been used for many years.
Salt water duck hunters have used wax on their shotguns for at least 200 years and probably a lot longer than that. Most use a good wax like Johnson's Paste Wax, or one of the hard Carnuba waxes. These don't turn white like most auto waxes, and unlike many auto waxes, these contain no fine abrasives to polish auto paint, which may harm a gun finish. To apply, smear on a medium thick coat, then warm with a hair dryer until the wax melts and fills the pores and crevices. Wipe off the excess, and the gun is well protected. An easier way, particularly on rough bead blasted blue or parkerized finishes, is to spray on a thick coat of CLP Breakfree. Allow to soak for 20 minutes to dissolve the old oil and for the CLP to "soak in" the rough surface. Wipe off the excess. Then, every time you handle or use the gun, apply a little more CLP. This will build up a coating of rust preventing Teflon and will protect the metal very well. |
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Waxing works ok, but the problem is that you either have to constantly reapply wax, or trust that the existing wax is intact. If you go too long, you risk rust.
Personnally, I find it easier to just apply a heavier oil or grease, especially on the "hidden" areas that don't get routinely get wiped down. For exposed metal, just wipe the gun down with a silicone cloth everytime you handle it. I've hunted in the rain quite bit, and never had a blued gun rust. You just need to clean and wipe down at the end of the day. |
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Quoted:An easier way, particularly on rough bead blasted blue or parkerized finishes, is to spray on a thick coat of CLP Breakfree. Allow to soak for 20 minutes to dissolve the old oil and for the CLP to "soak in" the rough surface.
Wipe off the excess. Then, every time you handle or use the gun, apply a little more CLP. This will build up a coating of rust preventing Teflon and will protect the metal very well. I have had great success with this method for Police & Express model 870s. |
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