Posted: 4/27/2009 7:16:07 AM EDT
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my BM with 4'' barrel doesn't cycle with subsonic and standard velocity ammo...
so far I've only tried Winchester, Lapua and Eley but every 2-3 rounds it jams. does your 4'' BM do the same? is there anything I can do about this? should I try different ammo brands? I usually shot it in my backyards and I'd like to keep the sound low.. also the barrel mounting screw come loose every 10-15 rounds...is loctite the only solution? is it supposed to have washer or not? mine didn't came with one. TIA Frens |
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My 4" barrel has not been as reliable with standard velocity ammo as the others. I think there isn't enough time for the action to cycle prior to the bullet exiting ad relieving the pressure. Standard velocity in 5.5" and longer works fine. Standard velocity ammo is generally subsonic in handguns, but reliability with the really slow stuff has been less than stellar.
The barrel screws only require being tightened in my experience. Never had to Loctite them. |
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There should be a cone shaped lock washer (I believe that is what you would call the star looking guys). They are available from Browning for a nominal fee. While you're at it, go ahead and order some other spares just to have around. Rimfire Central has some very informative posts on the subject.
My rear screw shoots itself loose after 100-200 rounds, but I just re-tighten it. Many people seem to use the semi-permanant (temporary) thread locking products. |
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If you're talking about the barrel mounting screw, there's no washer. It's a pointed set screw with no head.
If you're talking about rear sight screw, that's different. Over the years Browning has used different screws and washers. Some are cone-shaped, some are flat and I have one pistol with a factory rail that has a regular split lockwasher. There was even a time when they had very thin washers UNDER the sight. |
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thank you guys,
I was talking about the barrel mounting screw. the 2 sights screw have the washer and dont come loose. Bobcole, I think I'm putting the right amount of lube: not too much & not too little. does the BM need more lube than normal? btw, the barrel is brand new...is it possible it needs to break-in? |
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Quoted:
Bobcole, I think I'm putting the right amount of lube: not too much & not too little. does the BM need more lube than normal? btw, the barrel is brand new...is it possible it needs to break-in? Well, I'm from the school of thought that there's no such thing as too much lube on one's slide & rails. My buddies laugh at me when they shoot my guns as a fine mist of oil settles on their glasses. However, MY guns don't choke when we shoot IPSC or 3 Gun matches either. 
Your mention of a new bbl makes me wonder how smooth/clean the chamber might be? Have you really scrubbed out the chamber & eyeballed it? |
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The lack of sufficient break in may well be part of this problem. I find t I use he best thing for a new semi auto .22 is to fire about 1k rounds of high velocity ammo through it. After that it is much more likely to handle lower powered ammo.
I also agree that the chamber should be examined and polished. Lead deposits can be very stubborn to remove and can really mess with cycling. I use the yellow lead removing cloth cut into patches and/or JB bore paste |
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Quoted:
If you're talking about the barrel mounting screw, there's no washer. It's a pointed set screw with no head. ...Interesting thread. I'm thinking of a Buckmark or a Ruger Mk II and the Buckmark is stepping ahead in the "choice" race. When you speak of this barrel mounting screw...does this screw actually lock in the barrel and does it, by design mark, up the barrel where it makes contact?...Thanks. |
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Here's a pic that might help. The barrel screw is in a hole in the front of the trigger guard. The barrel has a lug that sticks down into the frame. The lug has a small cone-shaped divot that acceptss the pointy end of the screw. When the screw is tightened it locks the barrel down and back against the small step on the top of the frame. The screw in this pic is loose and protruding slightly from the front of the trigger guard. When assembled, the end of the screw is down inside the tapped hole.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/8696Hunter_Apart_2.jpg |
| ...Thanks for the reply chim..That explains a lot and the picture is worth a thousand words to me. I've researched the mechanics of the Ruger very deeply and the assembly and disassembly have left me with many doubts. This picture has the Browning looking better and better to me...Thanks again...Darryl... |
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My rear screw shoots itself loose after 100-200 rounds, but I just re-tighten it. Many people seem to use the semi-permanant (temporary) thread locking products.[/quote]
+1, the rear screws on both of my Buckmarks (7.75" Target and 5.5" SS Camper) both work free after about 150-to-200 rounds. Some blue Loctite seems to increase the timeline between tightening efforts. This is a minor design flaw, but makes it easy to take them apart and clean them up quickly. |
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Quoted: I cannot get my barrel screw loose - any suggestions - I have soaked it in oil/solvent/etc. if I force it anymore I will shear the screw slot? Jeff The last one that I had difficulty with (allen wrench version, not a slotted screw), I was able to loosen by lightly tapping on the allen wrench while applying turning pressure. It took a while, and some sweat, but it eventually came loose. I can't recall if I used any heat when doing that one, but careful application of heat always helps a stuck screw, bolt, etc.. Old school tip: After heating, quickly apply a squirt of WD-40 or push a candle on to the srcrew. This will shrink the screw slightly by cooling it, and allows even the most stubborn screw or bolt to come out. You must work very quickly though. |