Posted: 9/3/2010 7:10:19 PM EDT
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I guess I just can't figure this thing out. I took it apart and then went to put back together and now the bolt will only go partway back. I assume I'm doing something wrong with the hammer placement. Any advice??
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| Plenty of directional videos on youtube showing how to hold the pistol at the right angle so that the hammer strut will align correctly with the mainspring housing (or whatever they call that part). I hold the pistol at about a 45 degree angle so that the barrel points upwards. The strut will swing downward like a plumpbob and you hold that angle while closing the mainspring housing. On the last 1/8" of travel as the mainspring housing closes, you should feel some spring tension. The tension tells you the strut is in the housing correctly aligned with the spring. If the housing has no tension/springiness, you missed the mark. |
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Quoted: This question/problem comes up so often with the MK series there should be a permanent link for it. I think anyone that's stripped a MK down the first time has run into trouble and it is a bitch. Seriously how often would you say that this topic comes up. We try   |
| I watched the various Youtube instructions before posting here. Spent more time than I wanted to try to put back together and it got progressively worse. From only going back part way to not going back at all. Guess I'll continue watching the videos and continue trying my luck. If this thing could only be as easy as a Colt 22. |
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Sounds like you have the hammer strut in front of the mainspring. If you read the manual, you will see that Ruger mentions this as a way to "lock up" the pistol so it will not fire. The bolt will come back about 1/2 inch.
To fix this, tilt the gun upwards at a 45 degree angle. Pull the mainspring out about 3/4 of an inch and then push it back in. You should notice there is a little bit of resistance the last 1/8 of an inch. This is the strut compressing the mainspring and is letting you know it is in the proper position. Push the lever back into position and it should work fine. 
Ruger Instruction Manual here: http://www.ruger.com/products/_manuals/markII.pdf |
| It's alot easier since you can ask here and look on Youtube for directions. First time I did mine, It turned into another hour drive with a box of MKII parts to the dealer. And then another 45 minutes learning new names for that pistol while he tried to put it back together. I got it down now, but everyone here is correct....the first time absolutely sucks. |
| The Internet has saved countless $$$ from having to go to gunsmiths - so I'm sure they've lost substantial business these past 15 years. About 17 years ago, I didn't know how to disassemble my Mini14 so I drove 1 hour round trip for a 1 minute fix which cost $50. It was a stupid lesson. |
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Quoted: I was at a gunshop once when a guy walked in with a box of MKII parts that "his kid" took apart.It's alot easier since you can ask here and look on Youtube for directions. First time I did mine, It turned into another hour drive with a box of MKII parts to the dealer. And then another 45 minutes learning new names for that pistol while he tried to put it back together. I got it down now, but everyone here is correct....the first time absolutely sucks. Store owner looked and me as said "You have one of these don't you?" I said I did Here, you put it together Flip Click Snap All done  Pistol owner was amazed it went so fast |
| Bought my first MKII in the early 80's, got my MKI in the late 90's. I plan on at least several hours of reassembly IF I plan on cleaning either. They have to quite shooting for me to take them apart to clean. I guess if I cleaned them more often I might get the hang of it but damn they are a bitch. |
| I have owned MK I and MKII since the 70's and never did know they were difficult to reassemble. In my ignorant bliss I tore them apart and put them back together with no ploblem. Just the last few years all of a sudden people can't seem to figure them out. I believe them to be very straight forward. Learn how the hammer is cocked and how the mainspring works and your good to go. |
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Here is my quick and easy way - works for 22/45 or MKII. Don't have any MKIII versions so don't know about those.
1) Push hammer to cocked position (laying down in lower). 2) Reassemble the upper and lower. Make sure you push down on the muzzle end to fully seat the upper. 3) Pull the trigger and make sure the hammer drops (gravity is needed it is not under spring pressure yet). 4) Make sure the hammer strut is laying down into the grip - not up into the upper. 5) Push the big pin with spring loaded lever all the way into its hole but do not lock the lever down. 6) Tilt the gun so the hammer strut falls against the spring loaded lever rather than staying against the frame. 7) Slowly close the spring loaded lever - the hammer strut should drop into the dimple in the spring loaded lever. 8) Function check your firearm. Enjoy!
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Quoted:
this kicks everyones ass the first time. For the most part it does, I bought a NIB Mark I the other day and took it apart to clean it before going to the range. It was easy to disassemble and pretty easy to put back together until the mainspring housing. I did not have a problem getting the hammer strut to align at the end, but I was having problems getting the bolt stop pin to seat all the way. I realized after messing with it for a 1/2 hour that instead of pushing straight up I decided to wiggle it back and forth, then it snapped right in. I hear they are a PITA when they are new especially, but after doing it from start to finish by using the owners manual instructions it was pretty simple. |
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I have the I, II, and III and thought I knew it all. Then I got a 22/45 and tried to reassembly without reading the manual. Boy was I frustrated. Finally read the manual and saw that it was different than the old method. It was still a pain.
Always read the 'destructions'. |
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Quoted:
Here is my quick and easy way - works for 22/45 or MKII. Don't have any MKIII versions so don't know about those. 1) Push hammer to cocked position (laying down in lower). 2) Reassemble the upper and lower. Make sure you push down on the muzzle end to fully seat the upper. 3) Pull the trigger and make sure the hammer drops (gravity is needed it is not under spring pressure yet). 4) Make sure the hammer strut is laying down into the grip - not up into the upper. 5) Push the big pin with spring loaded lever all the way into its hole but do not lock the lever down. 6) Tilt the gun so the hammer strut falls against the spring loaded lever rather than staying against the frame. 7) Slowly close the spring loaded lever - the hammer strut should drop into the dimple in the spring loaded lever. 8) Function check your firearm. Enjoy! This is the best and most concise description. The key is to learn the respective parts of the gun, then follow these instructions. I have (3) of them, the first one I purchased about 27 years ago. I remember that first cleaning so well, reassembly took about 2 hours and I got it back together only by chance.  After a few cleaning sessions I finally learned how.
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