Posted: 2/11/2010 12:06:42 PM EDT
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Not the feel or pull, but the actual part. How do you select which one?
There's a ton of options, but I'm not sure what the differences mean. Aluminum, steel, flat, curved, holes, no holes, etc. Is it all about feel? Looks? Is lighter weight better? What is your favorite, and why? TIA 
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| I went with the SVI trigger because it looks cool, i got mine in blue. But really i also wanted to try the tri-glide trigger system they have, and it is pretty smooth. I think generally the lighter the trigger is better, my trigger is aluminum. I like the fact that i can pick whichever trigger i want, due to the interchangeable trigger system SVI has. The trigger has a smooth face to it which i like. Of course if i was looking for a combat trigger i would probably go with a solid aluminum trigger, i found lint fills up the skelentized triggers. |
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Quoted:
I base my purchases purely on the infinite knowledge of the internet. Therefore, I buy the 10-8 trigger. 
Hey it worked for me! I replaced my factory SA Loaded trigger with a Nowlin lightweight that was...ok. It was a drop in, had the fancy pretravel/overtravel adjustments, lightened trigger bow, etc. but the dang shoe would NOT stay tightly staked to the bow. I grew tired of this and decided to try out a 10-8 with full length trigger. I was nervous about fitting it, but it worked out perfectly. It is so, so much nicer than either of the previous triggers. There is almost no perceptable wobble and the fixed overtravel is nice peace of mind. I'm very happy with my decision. |
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Other than the front surface, (serrated or not) the trigger has no function on trigger feel unless it is sloppily fitted, in which case it doesn't matter which one you install.
1st assess what length trigger you want. I prefer a short or medium trigger because I have little stubby fingers. 2nd assess whether you want one that is adjustable for pre-travel and overtravel (I prefer some pre-travel and you need enough overtravel to assure reliability) Holes/no holes and color/material os jsut personal preference. In the old days, a gunsmith would drill holes in a stock steel trigger to lighten it. This was a safety mod for a really light bullseye trigger (otherwise the inertia of the trigger could retrip the sear under recoil) Aluminum or poly triggers don't need holes as they are lgiht enough already, so holes there are mostly for looks. |
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Quoted:
Other than the front surface, (serrated or not) the trigger has no function on trigger feel unless it is sloppily fitted, in which case it doesn't matter which one you install. 1st assess what length trigger you want. I prefer a short or medium trigger because I have little stubby fingers. 2nd assess whether you want one that is adjustable for pre-travel and overtravel (I prefer some pre-travel and you need enough overtravel to assure reliability) Holes/no holes and color/material os jsut personal preference. In the old days, a gunsmith would drill holes in a stock steel trigger to lighten it. This was a safety mod for a really light bullseye trigger (otherwise the inertia of the trigger could retrip the sear under recoil) Aluminum or poly triggers don't need holes as they are lgiht enough already, so holes there are mostly for looks. That is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks! 
And thanks to the rest too... what's so awesome about the 10-8 trigger? |