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AR15.COM
1/29/2009 5:59:49 PM EDT
Having a problem with a barely used Springer Loaded from 2002.  I'm suspecting the Barrel link, as pulling the slide to the rear is hard at first.  Seems stuck, pull harder then it comes back all at once easy.  Like the link is too long, does this sound right?  
This Springer had the last three numbers of the NM serial electric penciled on the bottom of the slide and I smoothed them out already thinking that was it.  This gun has pretty tight fitments all around, not like the newer Brazilian ones.  Should I just shoot it out of it, run it till it breaks, or does this need addressed first??
1/29/2009 6:23:21 PM EDT
[#1]
clean the barrel lugs and slide lugs, lube it and the barrel bushing and outside of barrel and the barrel hood with CLP.

Most new guns do this, just lube it up good.
1/29/2009 7:05:56 PM EDT
[#2]
First thing I did was clean it real good, then smoothed the engraving on the bottom of the slide.  Oiled excessively with Rem oil, then I racked the slide about 150 times.  Just makes me nervous, like the slide stop or barrel link will break or something!
1/29/2009 7:29:42 PM EDT
[#3]
also make sure your disconnector is lubed and operational
1/29/2009 9:36:19 PM EDT
[#4]
The slide is held up by the slide stop pushing up on the radius of the lower lug. The link shouldn't have any tension
on it (hardly any) when in full battery. If your firing pin strikes are in the center of the primer then the lower lug is
holding the barrel at the correct height (I believe) and it is the upper lugs that are in need of loosening. Look at the
lugs on the barrel and in the slide with a magnifier and if you don't see any signs of chipping or peening on the edges
you should be ok on the timing and it is just a tight lockup. You should put some grease on the upper lugs and run it
and see if after 50 or 100 rounds if it has changed any. Check the lugs again for any problems. Hopefully one of the
pros will chime in. I have only fit a few barrels and corrected one problem build so that is the limit of my expertise
with trying to help here.
1/30/2009 1:38:08 AM EDT
[#5]
I remember hearing, about a Colt armorer school, that the link is actually supposed to be somewhat forward of top-dead-center when the slide is fully in battery, so the lockup is tightest when pressure is highest, and so the barrel is still in its sighted-in orientation until well after the bullet is on its way through the air.

Well, I'm not sure if I actually remember hearing the second part, that might be something I heard elsewhere, but the first bit at least.

Dunno if that helps.
1/30/2009 2:05:03 AM EDT
[#6]
My Professional does the exact same thing. It was so tight when I first got it that I could barely break it loose by hand. It is getting better after 600 rounds.

Just shoot the hell out of it. If it breaks, SA will fix it.
1/30/2009 3:00:15 AM EDT
[#7]
Cock the hammer and retry.
1/30/2009 4:44:25 AM EDT
[#8]
Easy test.  Take the link out and try it.  If it's still sticking, the lower lugs were not cut enough.  The only reason to have the lock up that tight is LAZINESS on the part of the builder!  

In full battery, the link should be 1 degree forward of TDC.
1/30/2009 5:40:21 AM EDT
[#9]
I think this will wear in now after performing some of Your Checks on it.. The hood has more scuffing on it than is usually seen, nice and sharp lugs in slide and barrel..Makes my old Colt sound like a rattle trap!!  Just a very tightly fitted Springer, Thank you for the help Gang!