Posted: 1/20/2009 7:30:39 PM EDT
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OK, I need the hive-mind's wisdom on this one.
I am contemplating upgrading the ignition system in my MC Operator. The parts will either be the Cylinder and Slide five-piece set or the similar new set from Vickers Tactical. Here's the problem. The parts come in the white. The hammer and such I already have have a nice black ceramic finish. How the heck do you finish the parts without screwing up the meticulously polished surfaces that make it worth upgrading in the first place? Sending them out rather defeats the purpose of getting a do-it-at-home drop-in set. Anyone have this issue before? |
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I always wondered, I'd assume they re-(hot)blue the parts, after-all while they are in the white they are susceptible to rusting even if they are not on the outside of the gun.
If I couldn't reblue them after polishing and fitting, I'd use a small art paint brush to apply a thin coat of tw25b, or any other good grease. |
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I never finish the sear or disconnect. If I finish the hammer, it's only the back half not the hook area.
They get oiled before assembly and pulled out for cleaning at least twice a year. I've never had them rust. You could have them Ionbonded. Your trigger job would last a LONG time at least. |
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Hot bluing is probally the best choice but like you said it takes away from the do it yourself approach. You could make your own batch of salts and do it at home but realistically cost at least $40 to buy the materials. Good read here http://www.blindhogg.com/homemadesalts.html
If you want to paint the part and have it adhere well the small parts need to be blasted which is detrimental. This probally elimates this choice. Giving you all options no matter how bad it is. Buy stainless parts. I prefer carbon steel as it is harder and should last longer. Cold blue using this. http://www.vansgunblue.com/ Not a true cold blue cause you need to warm up the parts. I've bought this and will be using it for my small parts. Leave it in the white and keep it oiled. I would probally pick 1 of the last 2 choices. Good luck. |
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Joescuba said nice things about ceramic engine spray paint he picked up at the auto parts place. Careful masking (I did tank and airplane models for years) might do the trick.
I'm just trying to make the new small parts color-match the rather nice finish that Springfield put on it. I'll run into the same problem with the spare slide stop, etc. ETA_ Want2Race, Springer Precision offers IonBonding of small parts for 5 bucks per piece. Says it only adds a couple microns of thickness to the part, which might save me some headaches on putting everything back together and still having it run as nicely as it has since Steel1212 was so kind as to part with it 
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I've refinished several guns by sandblasting (aluminum oxide, actually), then zinc parkerizing, then Molyresin. I protect sensitive areas like the hammer hook, slide rails, feed ramp, etc. by meticulous masking. It's the most time-consuming part of the refinish job, but has worked well for me.
Premium 3M vinyl electrical tape (not the cheap black stuff) is wonderful for protection in the blasting cabinet if it's applied well. Barrels get plugged with silicone and a wire passed through the middle (without touching metal) for hanging. |