Posted: 8/14/2008 10:21:50 PM EDT
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I was wondering if anybody has first hand experience with the polymer STI Skeletonized triggers and how well they function? I have been thinking of getting one, But to be honest, I dont particularly care for the idea of poly. Anybody know of a black skeletonized trigger that is aluminium? Also how difficult is a good trigger job. I have read several articles including the ones linked above in the 1911 section. Some peoples guns it goes easy others takes a lot of custom work. I have a Springfield Arms Loaded. Anybody have any other suggestions? Thanks, Merc. |
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Thanks all for the insight. I do like the looks of that chip mccormick but its going to be a hard one to find. href=www.theshootersbox.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=220 So you guys say the poly is no prob? I wouldnt think it would be, but you never know. As for a gun smith to put the trigger in. I am having a hard time finding a good quality one in Washington State that isnt 50+ miles away hich Thanks all, Merc. |
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I've used STI's trigger ever Virgil Tripp came out with them. When he was working on one of my guns I kept asking him if he could checker the shoe of it's aluminum trigger and he said he couldn't make the vertical cuts because of the radius. Couple months later he dropped a Poly trigger on the bench and said 'here'. I got one of the first one's out of the prototype batch and been using them ever since. You're not going to get a closer feel of your sear breaking. |
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Hey thanks all for the reply's. I actually have another question. When it comes to full length or short. Does this have any effect on the pull. What I mean is the creep that you feel before the trigger engages. Will putting a new trigger in help this? Or is it caused by something else? Do the short triggers reduce the felt creep of the trigger? I have a timney trigger on my AR it has zero creep what so ever and has a nice crisp clean break and quick reset. I am looking for the same thing with my 1911. Also the more I read on it the more I am tempted to do it myself. It will cost around $60 for the tools to do it. But hey, then I got them for any future 1911 I will most likely be getting. As I LOVE MINE!. Merc. |
Short vs. Long trigger is something you're going to have to settle on through experimenting, just like arched vs. flat MSH. I good combination and after much mixing and matching what I settled on is flat MSH and long trigger. In the matrix of sub second first shots from a holster, w/ a long trigger your finger will inherently engage the trigger faster as opposed to curling and pointing back with a short trigger and to me I get a more controlled, straight back trigger pull w/a half crooked finger then a curled finger. It's small, subtle stuff that adds up. If you drop in your own trigger it most likely won't 'drop in' w/out some minor relieving. No, a light trigger like a Tripp / STI Poly won't take out creep in fact you'll feel it more. Let the pro's take that out. |
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Anybody have any experience with the Fusion triggers? in particular this one. www.fusionfirearms.com/servlet/the-95/Trigger--dsh--Match-Grade/Detail I really like the looks of it. It also has the adjustment pads at the top and bottom. Hmmmm. Anybody with experience feel free to chime in  Thanks, Merc. |