Posted: 1/11/2008 12:34:01 PM EDT
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School this 1911 newb....My friend gave me a Wilson Combat #64G Shok-Buff Recoil System last night for my Springer MC Operator. I installed it with the #18 spring. So a couple questions: Are there any issues or advantages/disadvantages at all with using the WC one piece full length guide rod versus the stock GI piece? Do I really need to use the Shok-Buff pieces? Would most any loads (230gr ball, 165 jhp, etc) run ok with the #18 spring? And if not, which ones would be a no-no? Oh yea, I also wanted to know how tight the tolerances for barrel-to-bushing fit were supposed to be on the Operator. Cocked, there is a small amount of rotational movement available between the two (though i know its hard to really define "small amount"). I remember a friend freaking out one day when he discovered the same sort of "small amount" of movement on his Springer. ETA: Field stripping and reassembly is pretty much just as easy as it was with the GI rod... |
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I like the one piece guide it fully supports the spring, supposed to keep everything aligned better during recoil. I also use an18# spring and have never had a problem I have seen a pistol short stroke with the crappy reloaded ammo sold at most ranges. I also use a shock buff but I cant see an advantage unless you use +P heavy loads, for me it is more for piece of mind than anything else. |
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If you use the cocking serrations to rack, or perform a press check, then the FLGR does nothing to impede. If you put your finger immediately below the muzzle to perform a press check (and your name is not Segal) then you should re-evaluate your training program. Hell even Tom Selleck had it right last Friday on 'Las Vegas'. Press check via front cocking serrations. |
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haha -- this comes up almost every week now. I'm a Shock-Buff supporter. I use them on every 1911 I own except for my Kimber Warrior because the Kimber won't sling shot with it installed. I replace them every 500 rounds and have never had the slightest amount of trouble. I shoot a lot and want to preserve my firearms for as long as possible. For me, they're just peace of mind. I also use 18.5# springs. I've used them with everything from my powder-puff reloads to +P ammunition and never had a problem. Use the 18.5 and don't worry about it. The lighter loads won't eject as far, but they'll eject just fine. And the heavier spring should save battering on the frame. I've never had a problem with the short guide rod, so I've never really felt much need for a FLGR. I bought one, installed it on the Kimber for a period and then switched back. It was just harder to disassemble. |
| I have one in my 1911 for 1000+ rounds and haven't had a single problem. Still have the original blue buffer in there with no signs of coming apart. I put it in there with a bunch of other Wilson parts so I can't say that I've noticed a difference solely for that but overall it made it a much better and dependable gun. |
I have one in my Springer and I can slingshot the slide. It is close though, and if it were a hair thicker I would not be able to. I could not slingshot a CQB or a TRS with the shock-buff installed. |
| theres certainly a difference in feel when slingshotting with the shok buffs, but it doesnt feel like its cutting out too much of the travel. im still definitely curious to see if theres any discernible difference between shooting with or without them. i wouldnt mind beating up one or two and neglecting the rest |
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The shok buff is designed to limit battering of the frame. I use CP Buffs in my 1911 after heeding the advice of guys far more knowledgable about the platform than I. Some goes for the 18.5# spring. Now I have heard the Wilson buffs are junk, so I stay away from them. Another step to take in order to limit the tear of a buff is to make sure you dont have any sharp edges on your spring guide. If there are sharp edges, you are more likely to see the buff shread. |