Posted: 12/11/2007 4:46:35 PM EDT
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Before I start I don't know a whole lot about 1911s hence the questions. I found a Springfield 1911A1 at a pawn shop for what I think is a pretty good deal. He has it marked at $399 and will probably go less. The thing that worries me is the gun has been altered, modified, or call it what you will by someone. I asked the dealer for the history but he had none other than it was a trade in. It has never been shot by anyone at the shop, atleast thats what he told me! The gun has an Ed Brown barrel and bushing, and an unknown aftermarket trigger. It may have more "stuff" but this is what jumped out at me right away. It is a stainless model and the slide and frame had a good tight fit as compaired to my friends Loaded model. I would say the finish is 85%+ with no major nicks or scratches. Does this sound like something I should think about buying? The whole barrel thing scares me. If it was done poorly would it wreck the pistol for good or could it be saved? Do you think this could make a good project gun if it doesn't shoot for shit or should I stay away not knowing its history? TIA, Stang |
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The only way I could go with a gun like that would be if the shop owner was willing to go with me to a local range for a test shoot, and what time would be best for him. Than is a nil possibility. $399 not a great deal. If you can get him down to $325 out the door go for it. A stripped SA frame and slide in good shape are almost worth that. |
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If this was a reputable shop vouching for the pistol and could actually name the QUALIFIED 1911 gunsmith who performed the work, I could consider it. However, if you don't know the pedigree on a modified 1911, you don't know anything. $399 is a good deal for any Springfield, even used. Question is, why is this pistol with a name brand "semi-custom" barrel priced at only $399? A guy with good intentions and a dremel can kill a 1911. Is this THAT gun? Unless I could have that thing inspected by a QUALIFIED 1911 gunsmith first, I wouldn't consider buying it. |
+1 I've been there and made a rather expensive and stupid mistake that I still haven't gotten fixed completely. I got what I though was a great deal on a "custom" 1911. I bought the gun without being able to shoot it. It turns out that whoever installed the Wilson barrel really FUBARed the lower lugs and ruined the barrel, this also caused the crosspin on the slidestop to be destroyed. Also, if you are going to consider it, make sure that the frame and slide are both springfield. Having been a 1911 newb, I didnt realize that there were so many different components available. I thouhgt I was buying a COLT series 70, But didnt realise that what I was getting was a Colt slide on an Essex frame. Stupid hurts sometimes. |
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I'd buy it. Even if it ends up having problems you could post it on the EE with a full description of the issues and get your money back out of it. Chances are, though, it's fine and is a really good deal. Hell, as a parts gun it's worth $399. How badly could you get hurt? |
| I would definitely pass. I picked up a Springfield GI last year that had been "customized" by some local hack. I only paid $350 for it, but it wasn't worth the trouble. The amount of skill required to properly install and fit a 1911 barrel is well beyond the skill of MOST gunsmiths. |
Unless the OP needs a reliable/carry gun and can't afford to have $400 tied up until it sells on EE. |
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You need to be able to disassemble the pistol and look at the respective parts to look for signs of bubba smithing. First thing is with the slide in battery push down on the barrel at the hood. A well fit barrel will have zero movement. An acceptably fit barrel will have just the slightest indication of give. A poorly fit barrel will exhibit a noticeable movement. Second function test the gun to insure that there is no no hammer follow and that the grip safety functions properly and the thumb safety works with a positive on and off without being excessive. Use a good quality magazine to insure the magazine both seats and drops positively from the gun. Remove the Barrel bushing and pay attention to it's fit. Excessively tight, loose or obvious indications of poor fitting like the one pictured below.  Once you've removed the barrel from the slide you check again for improper fit, signs of peening. Check the pictures below.     If the shop won't either allow you to disassemble the gun or do it for you pass on it. Good Luck Steve |
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Take another look at it... when the shop owner gets busy.... Break it down !... take a look.. see any goofy machining ? He may be surprised when he comes back, but who gives a rats ass.  Offer him 325 to start with... maybe go up to 375 ? I'd probably go for it. ETA: Now you've got SGB's point outs... you are GTG ! |
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The feed ramp should be a good rule of thumb indicator of Bubbaizing. The One Thing that Everybody Knows about 1911s is that the "feed ramp needs polishin'." If it looks like somebody went apeshit with a Dremel tool on it, if it's polished within an inch of its life, you can bet that no pleasant surprises await you underneath the hood. |
{REMOVED} Inappropriate to discussion and Forum - SGB If he's a wheeler-dealer, he'll buy it for $350-$375 and see how it shoots. The best situation is that the owner merely fell on hard times (or got bored with the project) and the gun is 100 percent good to go. The absolute down-side is that it needs a new barrel. Even then, he's in it cheap enough that he's OK. The middle ground is that he sells it for $450 - $500 on the EE and pockets a little change. Very little risk here. Good potential for a score. To me, that's a "go" deal. |
We can't carry here in WI so thats not a problem. Besides, I would never usa a gun with unknown history to protect me or my family. I have others for that. This would just be a shooter that I can tinker with. Keep the suggestions comming... Stang |
Wow, I had no idea you guys were so sensative about the "G" word. My mistake . . . It truly was an innocent comment. I didn't mean anything by it. |
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I don't trust the local pawn shop dealer enough to buy wood screws from him, much less a firearm. he's tried to BS me one too many times with "custom worked" 1911s. I'm sure he's right, 1911 custom 'smiths often produce mushy triggers, beavertail to frame gaps 1/8" wide, and assorted other hack jobs  Buy your guns at a gunshop... |
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I buy a good percentage of my guns at pawn shops. It requires YOU to be something other than a stooge with a wallet. If you know what you are looking at instead of just relying on the mook behind the counter you can make some incredible deals. I pay probably HALF the money that the "gunshop only" crowd pays. There is nothing wrong with buying guns out of a pawnshop. In fact, pawnshops may be the VERY LAST gunshops operating as they have a solid business in other areas to support them.... OP, buy yourself a Kuhnhausen manual for $20 and learn something about 1911's. Well worth the time and money. |
And even then you can always have that cut for a para/clark ramped barrel so it's not a total loss. BTW the frame I bought that was cut for a ramped barrel hasn't jammed yet unlike my other various 1911s Ive had without a ramped barrel. 
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True, but that isn't exactly a do-it-yourself proposition. When you add gunsmthing charges to the price of the gun, it isn't such a deal anymore. |
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I'd give it a good once over and see how it was put together. If it passed my initial inspection and were something I was willing to tinker with, I would then see how low I could get it. For $325-350 I would buy it and give it a try, worst case I would replace what needed and build it up the way I wanted. |
I never said it was, just adding that the frame wouldnt be a total waste if it had been "bubba-ised" on the feedramp beyond normal use. Sometimes knowing all the costs in a worst case scenario makes the decision easier to make. Such as, nothing wrong with it, its a decent deal or if it's totally fuct you'll have to add a $100 barrel and a $100 of 'smith work, which may still be in the budget since you're getting a new barrel professionally installed. etc etc. |
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offer 350, even if someone trashed the frame by overpolishing the feedramp, and screwed up the lugs on the barrel. I would buy it and have it cut for a clark barrel and have it fitted by a good gunsmith. You'll have a tackdriver and a very reliable gun. I put a ramped 9mm barrel in my springfield and it has never, ever had a failure to feed. buy the 1911 book referenced above, it is excellent and you'll learn tons about what makes them work and how to make them accurate. |
Someone who knows just gave you what you need to know. If you can't inspect it to check as SGB advises, pass on it. 
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