Posted: 12/29/2006 8:55:42 PM EDT
|
How much would a tungsten full length recoil guide help reduce recoil? They are legal in my club's falling plate matches, and I am always looking for an edge. I know the added weight up front is bound to help, but how much? Jim |
I am using Pachmeyer grips- I have used them for a long time and they feel comfortable. I may try some others sometimes. I am thinking of trying some Gunner Grips if I can find some. My SA Stainless Loaded had the full loaded features added at the factory, but I think we changed the springs with Wolff springs. I have a good competition trigger, and I can't remember the other little jobs I had done to it. I am thinking of trying some Bo Mar sights on someone else pistol. Mine are the SA adjustable target sights, and I doubt there will be much difference. The only other part I can think of would be a Bar Sto barrel, but at the ranges we shoot plates at it wouldn't be worth the expense. I am loading a 185gr LSWC over 4.5gr WST. It is a very accurate load in my pistol- and in 2 of dad's. It has a different, sharper recoil impulse than Unique, but is manageable. I am just looking for a slight edge to get me on target quicker. I have shot .45acp for a couple of decades but haven't tried a lot of the competition tricks like the tungsten FLRG. I thought tunsgten was much stronger than steel. I have a stainless FLRG now. I was just wondering how much the extra weight helped in the real world. I know in theory it should help, but by how much? Jim |
|
I have a tungsten guide rod in one of my .45s for limited class. I like it. I am running a 14# spring with the guiderod. Gives the gun the feel of a heavy dustcover. Shoots flat. The key to getting the tungsten guiderods to live is to make sure the guide rod has the correct head size. STI guns take a different guiderod. Make sure the fit up is good and bevel the head. Should live for a while. I think the lighter spring makes a bigger difference, but give the tungsten FLGR a shot. You can always change it out. |
|
With light loads, you can go down to a 14# or 12# recoil spring, but depends on extractor tension (if your gun like to have a lot of tension, you need a more powerful recoil spring to make the slide return to battery). I would not go lighter than 19# on the mainspring. By grip, I mean how you grip the gun. I am not trying to start a weaver vs. isoceles argument, but changes in your grip style can change how much muzzle flip you experience. You might want to experiment by doing live fire drills with a timer to see if any changes you make in gun/gear/technique make a difference and how much. |
|
I use a 14 ISMI in a semi custom kimber I. 170 pf 230 zero hp using titegroup as the propellent. Gun shoots much flater than the 18.5 I hand in there. I was able to see the front sight dip low and the slide seamed to move slow using the 18.5. Dropped a 14 in there and all is equal once more. Stock mainspring. |
|
170 pf will work with a 14# recoil spring. I would run a shock buff. You're shooting plates, right? No need for full power ammo. If you're running factory ammo, not much you can do. If you handload, you can download your ammo. Buy a Dillon square deal and have someone show you how to reload. |
|
I run the 14# ISMI as well with a 17# mainspring. I tend to just shoot factory 230 gr stuff. Not enough time to reload. Runs great. Haven't had any problems with reliability with this setup. Give it a try. You are only out the cost of the springs. I don't run a buff. I haven't noticed any abnormal battering in a few thousand rounds this way. Alot of the conventional wisdom regarding springs is contrary to what the USPSA shooters are using in their guns. I would change from weaver to an iso with the correct grip. Makes a big difference. That made a significant difference for me. |
I will give it a try, but it feels weird. Jim |
|
If you want to get really good at shooting, it would be well worth your time to seek out a local USPSA/IPSC club and ask one of the GM or M class shooters for a lesson on grip and other basic shooting skills. Some of them already teach on the side. You're already shoting falling plates, if you shoot a USPSA match you'll probably become addicted. IDPA matches are another good venue to develop your skills, but they do less shooting at their matches than occurrs at USPSA matches. Another option, Matt Burkett (www.mattburkett.com) has an excellent series of DVDs. Do a search on "grip" on the forums at www.brianenos.com |
I had erad that long ago, but had forgotten it went 50 pages. I am not really concerned with recoil. Muzzle flip, and torque, is what slows down recovery and getting onto the next target. I am not a newbie to shooting the .45acp. It is what I carried as a cop long ago. We qualified on a combat course that is similar to what an IDPA course is now. I was usually the top shot- the only one who could beat me was another RO who cheated on occaision with a tightened, accurized competition pistol. Jim |
|
I didn't mean to imply you were a newbie. I'm not sure how far you read (yup it's 50 pages!) but that mod is supposed to sort of redirect recoil straight back, vs. up which is supposed to reduce muzzle flip. It may be worth looking at. I should't have said "recoil reduction" in my previous post, I meant muzzle flip reduction. |
Roland, the remark about experience wasn't directed at you but others. The recoil of a 1911 pistol isn't as bad as I have read many other people talk about, at least for me. At one time I shot plate matches with 230gr ball before I started loading for it. I guess I could always use a red dot on it, but I like using iron sights even if my scores are lower. Jim |
|
In my Limited gun I run a SS FLGR and a 12# spring and major PF loads. It's fast and flat. While I do have a full profile frame and slide, and SS bull barrel, I'm pretty anti-tungsten rods. They have a way of chewing up frames. That said it's a great way to add weight in the right place if it fits right. Rich |
That is not so good. My pistol is stainless, which is prone to galling under the right circumstances. Something that will wear it faster might be a bad idea. I'll stay with the stainless FLGR that I have now. Jim |
|
Since 2000 my sti edge has had a tungsten flgr and a 14 pound recoil spring. For 2 seasons it saw nothing but AE 180 FMJ factory ammo. Threst of the time it saw 172 PF 180 zero bullets with tg powder. I have yet to see any chew marks on my frame from the gr. Sometimes you have fit 1911 parts. |
|
I’ve been using a 1 piece EGW tungsten guide rod and believe it provides a slight improvement in recoil. I shoot exclusively full power (and occasionally +P) ammo and it hasn’t broken yet. www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=6137&title=1911+AUTO+GUIDE+ROD+SYSTEM |
|
I shot Heinie one-piece tungsten guide rods for several thousands of rounds in IPSC and action training (usually 200 LSWCs under 5.4 WST). They definitely help as far as muzzle rise, and help (in my mind) for pointing since the center of gravity is shifted forward. After breaking two of them where the rod meets the steel head I decided they were indeed too brittle and went back to GI guide and plug. The pistol still functioned without the rods, which flew out the front end of the gun. I knew it happened the first time when I heard it go pinging downrange on the concrete floor. |