Posted: 7/7/2006 1:22:00 PM EDT
|
have an opportunity to pick up some Wilson Combat parts at dealer cost. still fairly new to 1911s, and request some advice. I have heard the magazines are just about the best you can find anywhere, so I will be getting a few of those. I am also going to pick up an extractor, just to have a spare on hand. also considering some upgrades What I am not sure of, is whether I should go ahead on the ultralight match trigger, the Wilson website says minor fitting may be required, how hard is this? If someone has a suggestion, please let me know. Another not sure of question is a drop-in beavertail, the website says it goes with a Commander style hammer, so apparently I would have to change a hammer out as well. How much of a job is changing out a hammer? Any opinions? Please let me know about the trigger/beavertail/hammer change out. I am more interested in having a highly reliable and accurate 1911 than one that appears all tricked out. If this belongs in gunsmithing, perhaps one of the moderators will move it, I figured the 1911 guys would have the advice |
|
Changing out the hammer will require fitting.(basically a trigger job) Switching the beavertail requires grinding the frame and refinishing unless you get a drop-in. Here's a ton of info on 1911 mods. www.blindhogg.com/gunsmithing.html You'll find that it's not easy to do what you want and once you factor in the cost of proper tools you're better off finding a good gunsmith. |
|
The trigger is no problem. They have to put the disclaimer on about--have a gunsmith do it--. I put mine in adjusted the tension with the enclosed wrench and I was done. I put the Wilson match trigger in. I also put the Wilson beavertail in. I did have to file off some material for the trigger engagment bar which was no big deal. I just measured againest the old grip safety. If you change the hammer however you change your trigger pull. The sear engages the notch in the hammer. This is critical for trigger pull as well as safety. If you do this go slow and check often so you don't remove to much material. It's a bit time consuming because you have to file or polish the reassemble the gun to check engagement and function. I have done this on both my series 70 and 80 Colt's. The best thing to do if you have any reservations is to just cut the stock hammer back so it will clear the notch in the beavertail. It's hard to mess that up and very easy to do. Once you cut about half the cocking serrations off the hammer round it and polish with a slightly abrasive paste. You can use cold blue from Brownells to replace the part you remove on the hammer. Good sights, good trigger is really all you need but sometimes the other mods can be pleasing to the eye or improve the grip. Also for a Government model full size 1911 purchase a new Wilson or Wolf 18 1/2 pound recoil spring every 2500 rounds. Most extractors require fitting which means slight bending. It can be a bit tricky. Then again it could just drop in and function fine. You never know until the part is installed. Don't expect the beavertail to fit like a factory one. There will be more space between the part and the frame. It's not much and I have never had a problem with a less than custom fit. Hope this helps, P. White |
| By the way if you want to check the before and after look of the beavertail etc. check my blog for pictures at http://philsguns.blogspot.com philsguns.blogspot.com |