Like MartinMayhem writes, using backwards engineering can give you a ballpark idea on where to file and how much.
I used dial calipers to measure the distance from the pin on the thumb safety to the point on the stuf where it contacts the sear. Comparing the new and old safeties gives an idea of how much material you have to remove.
Don't remove too much too fast! Check it often once you are getting close (every 5 file strokes). A dry erase pen might prove useful to see exacly where on the stud it's contacting the sear as engages and disengages (you gotta file it flat, not crooked).
You'll be surprised at how quckly a file can work, especially when you're talking about only removing 5 or 10 thousandth's of an inch.
Remember, you are striving too leave a little too much metal, not too little (too little ruins the safety, unless you can build it up again by welding it).
Using safe-side file would be good.
Also know that down the road if you change the sear, you'll probably need to refit the old safety or buy a new one and fit that. If you anticipate using another sear or having a trigger job done (much, much more involved, but fun and rewarding once you know how), fit the thumb safety AFTER the sear is the way you want it.
SF