Posted: 5/24/2017 7:23:43 PM EDT
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I'm looking for a threaded barrel for my SR1911, since I finished my 45cal suppressor. Problem is every decent 1911 threaded barrel I found is like $250+ and that is a bit too much for me. I don't really need a match-grade barrel.
Are there any good options for a 1911 threaded barrel for $150ish? Also, I will be fitting the barrel myself so I would like it to be as close to drop-in as possible. |
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Cheap threaded barrel
Warning: You get what you pay for. Barrels run around $200-250 for a reason... edit - Here's another one |
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Cheap threaded barrel Warning: You get what you pay for. Barrels run around $200-250 for a reason... edit - Here's another one If you read through the reviews people also complain about the fit of the barrel in their gun. Â The vast majority of those reviews are posted by people who have no idea what the hell they're doing and expect a 1911 part to be a drop in part. Â |
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Cheap threaded barrel Warning: You get what you pay for. Barrels run around $200-250 for a reason... edit - Here's another one I totally get that this is one of the things that I get what I pay for. I don't want to pay for overkill either if I can help it. I don't need match-grade just to plink around with. |
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Yup, if you buy that one you'll likely need to get a die and chase the threads. Â I've toyed with that idea several times now...just hard to pull the trigger on a die for only one or maybe two barrels. Â If you go this route OP let me know. Â If you read through the reviews people also complain about the fit of the barrel in their gun. Â The vast majority of those reviews are posted by people who have no idea what the hell they're doing and expect a 1911 part to be a drop in part. Â |
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its not easy to install the link. 
The CZ came out great and it was my first barrel fitting project. I do want to learn more about building a 1911 so I figure barrel fitting would be a good place to start. |
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.578 is 37/64 (and it is not a metric conversion either). Good luck finding that die. Here you go. $25 |
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.578 is 37/64 (and it is not a metric conversion either). Good luck finding that die. Here you go. $25 |
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My thoughts though, even though the die and barrels are cheap. *anything* that gets a suppressor on it will have a high quality barrel. I'm not destroying my gemtech can on some bubbafucked barrel. If its just a flashhider or a muz brake I don't care. |
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.578 is 37/64 (and it is not a metric conversion either). Good luck finding that die. Here you go. $25 |
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I bought that "Cheapo" barrel. However the one I received was in the white. Threads were right on spec. Concentricity to the bore was .0003" I also had both tap and dies for .578-28. And yes, the hardest part of the process was installing the link pin. It is short and therefore hard to hang on to and hold straight as you engage the press ram.
Shooting 230RNL cast with lube, group and point of impact are identical to the OEM barrel. Barrels stay clean with only powder traces - no leading. At some future date I want to get another 1911, this time with the rails. I will buy another for this pistol also. I just wish it were this cheap and easy to add one for my Sig P220 
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I bought that "Cheapo" barrel. However the one I received was in the white. Threads were right on spec. Concentricity to the bore was .0003" I also had both tap and dies for .578-28. And yes, the hardest part of the process was installing the link pin. It is short and therefore hard to hang on to and hold straight as you engage the press ram. Shooting 230RNL cast with lube, group and point of impact are identical to the OEM barrel. Barrels stay clean with only powder traces - no leading. At some future date I want to get another 1911, this time with the rails. I will buy another for this pistol also. I just wish it were this cheap and easy to add one for my Sig P220 |
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Amazon link too Not adjustable. |
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I bought that "Cheapo" barrel. However the one I received was in the white. Threads were right on spec. Concentricity to the bore was .0003" I also had both tap and dies for .578-28. And yes, the hardest part of the process was installing the link pin. It is short and therefore hard to hang on to and hold straight as you engage the press ram. Shooting 230RNL cast with lube, group and point of impact are identical to the OEM barrel. Barrels stay clean with only powder traces - no leading. At some future date I want to get another 1911, this time with the rails. I will buy another for this pistol also. I just wish it were this cheap and easy to add one for my Sig P220 |
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Low quality die. Not adjustable. |
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Still $25 and adjustable You open it up so it does not cut at all and then gradually tighten it till the threads end up at the fit you want. |
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You got the Swenson from Midway? Well dang I might just get one then. What fitting did you need to do? I had the tap because someone wanted me to modify a booster piston to this thread spec. I made a test ring with that tap and it fit the Swenson barrel with almost perfectly. I gambled that if the barrel arrived with oversize threads or slightly out of concentric I could make a mandril and turn between centers and recut the threads true. - There was no need. |