Posted: 3/16/2015 10:35:26 PM EDT
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So some may remember(ok maybe not), I was gifted a Loaded for my b'day in October. I took it out and shot one box. This past weekend I took it out again. I fired several magazines and then I seated a fresh mag, pushed the slide release and it wouldn't load the round into the chamber completely. The round went halfway in and looked like it was in a bind.
I cleared the jam and put the mag back in. This time I pulled the slide back and let it go forward. It did the same thing. I cleared it and sprayed some oil in the chamber and on the rails and went back to shooting. It happened again several mags later and I cleared and reapplied oil. It didn't happen again. I was using 230 grain Speer Lawman ammo. It did feed an entire mag if old hydra shoks with no issue. I cleaned it tonight and it wasn't exceptionally dirty. Edit: I was able to give a little push on the back of the slide and it would then chamber. Also, I never oiled it when I first got it. I ran it right of the box to see what would happen. |
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They are all mags from SA. I didn't think to isolate the mag after a failure to try others. I wish I had. The mags are all brand new like the gun and have been stored in the case and I haven't dropped them to cause any damage.
Tonight when I reassembled, I was sure to leave a fine coat on the feed ramp and a little more on the rails. I'm new to 1911s so this is a huge learning curve. |
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Brand new. It doesn't even have 500 rounds so I assume it needs a bit more break in at this point.
Is there a preferred oil/lube for a 1911? I know some people swear by frog lube for ARs so I was wondering. I used Hoppes oil on it this time, which I've liked on all my other firearms. |
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I would think you're pretty much past the break in point. I run REMOIL on all my weapons. It isn't the greatest but I've never really noticed an issue.
As for the mags, take a paint marker and number them. That way if you start experiencing malfunctions you can isolate it to a certain magazine if you think it might be mag related. I also use my initials that way they don't walk off. |
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Do not mess with gun yet! First isolate mag as possible cause
A modern 1911 is not a glock! It needs lube to run proper.(old rattle trap mil guns could go dry but modern 1911's are built much tighter) If you do not isolate a specific mag and it gives problems when PROPERLY lubed the. Start to tinker. Lube is not a case of just splash some stuff on. There are specific places lube should be for optimal function - lucking recesses in slide top of disconnector rails of course. Research a little and you should find plenty of tutorials |
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Also if you got it in October and it is now mid march and it is only to the range twice you are obviously doing something wrong!   I know. It's tough with four kids. There's football, volleyball, basketball, church, work...ugh the excuses go on and on!
Edit: I don't know it would make a difference, but I don't think I made it clear that it only happened on mag changes. Once the first round was chambered it ran fine. |
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Based upon your latest post, I would offer a couple of suggestions. First, make sure the pistol is properly lubricated. This doesn't mean overlubed... A proper amount in the right places goes a long way. Assuming that this base is covered, I would ask if you are running 7, or 8 round magazines. Personally, I have found more guns that prefer to run on the 7 rounders than I have that like the 8 round mags. The pistols I have owned that did not like 8 round mags exhibited the same types of issues that you are describing here. Those issues were resolved by simply replacing the 8 round mags with 7 rounders.
Finally, I would suggest that you make sure that you are retracting the slide completely then letting it go forward without riding it when chambering that first round. Even experienced shooters will occasionally mess this one up on a new to them pistol, and it can cause the issues you describe. Also, along this same line of thought... Don't use the slide stop as a slide release. Again, be sure to fully retract the slide then let it fly forward. Hope you get the issue resolved. The 1911 is a pistol that is worth the learning curve to run one properly. Once you have learned the gun inside and out, no other pistol will quite take its place. |
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A non 1911 pistol of mine did the exact same thing. Got sent in for warranty repair. I cannot remember every detail of the service work but polished feed ramp was part of the serviCe. My brothers dan wesson would hang up on hollow points Most other autos don't have extractor woes like 1911s however. Every 1911 I have had consistent problems with were due to extractors. It seems setting up an extractor is becoming a lost art 
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| What kind of magazines..... This could be as easy as a crap magazine causing this. My Kimber used to do this exact issue all the time and the extractor was tensioned properly. I ditched all my cheap mags switched to Wilson ETM and 47D mags never had the issue since. |
| Agree with others that you need to check the extractor. A lack of lube is not causing your problem. It's also not part of the mythical "break in" period. Even if the problem disappears at the same time you apply lube or at the same time that you tried a different brand of mags, it will happen again at some point... |
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So... have you numbered your magazines yet?
Well you could name them, or add any other type of identifying feature, that way you will know if it is one (and which one) magazine is doing this or is it two or all three. ID the mag's isolate which one it is. If it is one mag measure the lip spread (might spring for a dial caliper for this) if needed you can adjust (very) carefully. #1 problem is magazines (in military experience) now I do not use cheap shit magazines I like Wilsons. Now after you eliminate magazine problem. Next most likely culprit is the extractor tension. Unless you are shooting reloads then it is probably cartridge OAL or the length to the ojive. |
| Next time it jams, see if the case rim is even near the extractor yet. If not, it is likely a three point jam not extractor tension. Most 1911 problems I have had are three point jams. They are hard to fix. If that is the problem, you would probably be better off sending it back to Springfield to fix the gun than buying mags to fix the problem. The best running 1911's I have had run reliably with every type of magazine I have. |
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Check your extractor tension first. It's easy to do and is probably the cause of most 1911 problems.
Polishing the feed ramp is probably the last thing to do. It really doesn't make that much difference. I shoot LSWC in practice and matches, and it gets dirty after shooting several hundred rounds. There will be powder fouling and some lead on the ramp and it doesn't make any difference. Unless your ramp is rough from machining it isn't the problem. I think 90% or more of malfunctions with a 1911 are from the extractor or magazine. Extractor problems seem to occur when the pistol is new, and then after many thousands of rounds. It's easy to check and easy to fix, and adjusting the extractor is free. edited to add: Don't put oil in the chamber. There are some very good books and online articles on 1911 maintenance. You want grease on the rails. The rule is- if it slides, grease it. If it spins, oil it. You don't need a lot of oil or grease, but you do need to lube it properly. |