Posted: 3/16/2015 11:18:10 AM EDT
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Well I have several 1911's as collector pieces. Four custom 100 year Anniversary from my deployment to AFG, 1911 Govt property marked built in 1914, a Nickel plated civilian with New Orleans pimp hand grips built in
1914, and a Mark IV Series 70 Govt from the mid '70's. All but the GI from 1914 are unfired new in the box. The 1914 GI will remain in the condition it is in now for obvious reasons. I mentioned to my father in law, who is a gun collector, that I was interested in a 1911 I could actually shoot and he handed me the AMT Hardball which is also New in the box unfired and said take this one. He explained it was not a very good weapon due to the sharp edges but would be a decent shooter. I faintly remembered hearing some bad things about the AMT's and after some memory refreshing this morning I am debating on selling it and using the proceeds to get a decent one or putting a little money in parts and a little effort in fitting and keeping it. Selling it risks seeming ungrateful, and putting money in it risks.....well money. I will shoot it before putting parts on it just in case I got a "good one". I just want a plinker that functions well. This one has the sharp edges and could use a little polishing here and there but the slide to frame fit is pretty tight as well as the barrel bushing. The castings look pretty decent. I cleaned it and lubed the weapon with a good oil. What is the current recommended lube for the AMT's to prevent galling? He bought the Hardballer in 1979 so it is an early one. What does the hive here think? |
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Quoted:
Metaloy would be a good first step. I would get it hard chromed since it was a gift from the FIL That should cover the galling, then replace parts as necessary to make it a shooter. This sounds like a good plan. I hate to seem ungrateful, it is a fairly low serial number pistol, just not as collectable as the others. Off to study up on hard chrome plating. I have read about polishing the feed area, and possible trigger slap. This trigger is pretty smooth on pull and kind of on the light side. |
| I bought one of those new back in '89 and it didn't come with an owner's manual, only a sheet of paper with a few maintenance tips and maybe a parts diagram. I do remember that it suggested to use white lithium grease as a lubricant. I remember when I oiled it with what I think was Outer's oil the gun turned a greenish color. I haven't shot that thing in years. |
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Well talked to metaloy and while they would chrome the rails they wouldn't do much else to it. They suggested I sell it unfired and buy a different one. pretty much the same I hear all over. It could run just fine or not. I
won't sell it any time soon because of the gift factor. I was looking at the springfield line and really like the looks of the Loaded stainless for around $800 plus depending on where you get it. Any other suggestions? Should I just say the hell with collecting the mid seventies series 70 nickle plate unfired NIB and shoot the damn thing? I would like to target shoot for fun but also carry daily something reliable. Kansas is an open carry state and soon to be constitutional carry so full size carry is not an issue. 800-900 is the budget for now. |
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You can avoid or minimize stainless-on-stainless galling with quality lube -- Mobile or Shell Aero grease, moly grease, slide glide, Lubriplate, TW-25, LSA, whatever.
Shoot the living snot out of it. I had a pistol built by an Olympic gunsmith off of a 1979-80 AMT frame with GI everything else and gave it to my brother as a gift over 30 years ago. That pistol still shoots great. The minor fault it had was a magazine catch hole drilled a few thousandths too low (the mag hung down from the bottom of the pistol about half a magazine floorplate). Got an EGW magazine catch with the higher shelf and fixed it. If you're not going to trade it because of the gift factor you have a solid blaster you can pass to your grand kids. If you don't like the white metal finish you can Cerakote it. Good luck, and enjoy! |
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Quoted:
You can avoid or minimize stainless-on-stainless galling with quality lube -- Mobile or Shell Aero grease, moly grease, slide glide, Lubriplate, TW-25, LSA, whatever. Shoot the living snot out of it. I had a pistol built by an Olympic gunsmith off of a 1979-80 AMT frame with GI everything else and gave it to my brother as a gift over 30 years ago. That pistol still shoots great. The minor fault it had was a magazine catch hole drilled a few thousandths too low (the mag hung down from the bottom of the pistol about half a magazine floorplate). Got an EGW magazine catch with the higher shelf and fixed it. If you're not going to trade it because of the gift factor you have a solid blaster you can pass to your grand kids. If you don't like the white metal finish you can Cerakote it. Good luck, and enjoy! I am considering this option as well. I actually prefer the stainless finish for some reason. I guess if I go this route it is still a $300 dollar pistol shot or not. If it runs good great, if not I get a different pistol. |
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Have a talented 1911 smith go through it and check it for feed and function.
Get good magazines (not random out-of-the-"Special" box at the local pawn shop or random gun show bin). If you are comfortable with a military arms room-type gun you can shoot and treat like it was Uncle's instead of your own, well go to it -- she should work very, very well. |