Posted: 1/4/2015 5:11:20 PM EDT
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This one came to me with the ignition parts, magwell and Dawson sight already on it.
The owner is one of our long-time USPSA shooters and he wanted frontstrap checkering to match the magwell, which turned out to be 25 lines per inch. He also wanted a frontstrap high cut and a French border on the slide. I blasted it to match the factory finish. It was a good fun project to knock out during my last vacation days of the year. 
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Nice work! Is there a reason you didn't continue the horizontal lines all the way down? Checkering at the bottom tends to get beat up and can snag clothing and skin. Usually I will file the verticals out, leaving a smooth border at the bottom, but in this case, the inside of the magwell was already beveled so much I didn't want to thin out the area any more than I had to. 
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Hand cut. My mill isn't really large enough for a checkering fixture. Quoted:
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This might be a Dumb Question but I wouldn't ask if I knew the Answer. is that Machine Cut Chekering or Hand Cut with a Checkering File? Nice Work  Hand cut. My mill isn't really large enough for a checkering fixture. Thank You Ken 
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Very nice work,sir! And a question for you,is there enough meat on the front of the S.A.'s slide, to remove the front serrations? Thanks for your input here also. I haven't measured this particular gun, but I have seen it done in the past. Thanks for the comments, everyone! |
What is up with that barrel?
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The barrel is showing some candle soot from fitting with the slide. Some bull barrels will bottom out on the top of the slide instead of the locking lugs, so I'd sooted up the barrel to find out where it was contacting. This can be a "gotcha" for someone seeing it for the first time. They assume the lugs need to be deeper and will keep filing them deeper only to discover the lugs aren't close to bottoming out.
Another photo that shows things a little further along. The slide stop is a temporary part with an undersized pin, and the thumb and grip safeties are temporary parts as well. I'm still lacking a couple of parts for it, and the slide needs gripping serrations cut into it. 
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I did a couple of those about 15 years ago and put them on my website (see sig). I do more piecemeal work these days, but I do a complete build every so often. Quoted:
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You building guns these days?? Can you do a step by step? I did a couple of those about 15 years ago and put them on my website (see sig). I do more piecemeal work these days, but I do a complete build every so often. Cool. What do you think of the Pheonix Trinity frames? they as good as STI? |
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Cool. What do you think of the Pheonix Trinity frames? they as good as STI? Quoted:
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You building guns these days?? Can you do a step by step? I did a couple of those about 15 years ago and put them on my website (see sig). I do more piecemeal work these days, but I do a complete build every so often. Cool. What do you think of the Pheonix Trinity frames? they as good as STI? The quality of machining looks to be about the same. I've heard of some dimensional issues with them and have noticed the grip attachment holes seem to be off by just a little bit. The company seems kind of dinky compared to STI. I won a certificate for this frame at a match and it took them several months and some nagging to deliver on it. For the price difference, ($250 vs. 450), I think the PT frames are a pretty good bargain (but the STI frames do come with a grip frame, trigger and MSH). Then again I'm not done with the build yet, so who knows what else I'll find. |
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Thanks for the explanation on the barrel. I gets it. Is that one a .38 Super? It looks like it will be pretty cool. I always get the feeling a double stack 1911 would feel better than a single stack in my hands. But I've never tried one yet. This one will be 9mm. I don't have much use for .38 Super generally. I'm thinking it will be a pretty good 3-gun pistol and possibly Steel Challenge. |