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AR15.COM
12/1/2014 3:20:09 PM EDT
I recently picked up this barrel for my 1911. Although it was a bit of a tight fit, everything locks up fine and will cycle snap caps. The only issue is right I see a bit of a gap at the back of the barrel by the loaded chamber peep hole. I'm guess it needs fitting, but I wanted some more input before I drop more money into it. Thoughts?

Factory Barrel



Brownells Barrel
12/1/2014 3:33:17 PM EDT
[#1]
I would plastigage the barrel lugs and go from there.
12/1/2014 3:55:03 PM EDT
[#2]
I've built many AR's before, but never had to tune a 1911. What is plastigaging and what would I be looking for?
12/1/2014 4:15:41 PM EDT
[#3]
you want to make sure the lugs on the slide and barrel are in full enguagement. you may need to thin the rear of the hood some, but shortering the hood will change your headspace. also check that the foot contacts the slide stop pin correctly.

search brownells they have a write up on building a 1911.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=12539/guntechdetail/Building_A_1911___Part_III
12/1/2014 7:53:41 PM EDT
[#4]
Man I've got none of the tools they mentioned. It'll probably be cheaper to just take it to the gunsmith and have them check it over
12/1/2014 9:37:11 PM EDT
[#5]
I'm 98% sure the end of the barrel hood should be touching the breach face.  It has on every 1911 I've ever seen.
12/1/2014 10:08:58 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Quoted:
I'm 98% sure the end of the barrel hood should be touching the breach face.  It has on every 1911 I've ever seen.
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That's ideal, but most production 1911s have a gap of variable width.   As long as it isn't excessive, it should work OK.   A cheap drop-in barrel like that will probably function all right as long as the proper link is installed.   You want the link to be short enough that it will pull the barrel down before the slide forces its way past the upper lugs.  A good rule of thumb is to pick the shortest link that will allow the slidestop pin to rotate without binding against the lugs.  

You won't win any bullseye matches with this setup, but it should function.
12/2/2014 2:38:12 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote History
Quoted:


That's ideal, but most production 1911s have a gap of variable width.   As long as it isn't excessive, it should work OK.   A cheap drop-in barrel like that will probably function all right as long as the proper link is installed.   You want the link to be short enough that it will pull the barrel down before the slide forces its way past the upper lugs.  A good rule of thumb is to pick the shortest link that will allow the slidestop pin to rotate without binding against the lugs.  

You won't win any bullseye matches with this setup, but it should function.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I'm 98% sure the end of the barrel hood should be touching the breach face.  It has on every 1911 I've ever seen.


That's ideal, but most production 1911s have a gap of variable width.   As long as it isn't excessive, it should work OK.   A cheap drop-in barrel like that will probably function all right as long as the proper link is installed.   You want the link to be short enough that it will pull the barrel down before the slide forces its way past the upper lugs.  A good rule of thumb is to pick the shortest link that will allow the slidestop pin to rotate without binding against the lugs.  

You won't win any bullseye matches with this setup, but it should function.



I love how candid you are Ken
12/3/2014 3:31:02 PM EDT
[#8]
You can cut the hood off and it doesn't change headspace. You can finesse a barrel with a little extra hood so it barely touches the breech face when its locked up, but you can't do anything about a short hood except build it up with weldment. Like he said, it'll be functional.
12/3/2014 5:00:47 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote History
Quoted:


That's ideal, but most production 1911s have a gap of variable width.   As long as it isn't excessive, it should work OK.   A cheap drop-in barrel like that will probably function all right as long as the proper link is installed.   You want the link to be short enough that it will pull the barrel down before the slide forces its way past the upper lugs.  A good rule of thumb is to pick the shortest link that will allow the slidestop pin to rotate without binding against the lugs.  

You won't win any bullseye matches with this setup, but it should function.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I'm 98% sure the end of the barrel hood should be touching the breach face.  It has on every 1911 I've ever seen.


That's ideal, but most production 1911s have a gap of variable width.   As long as it isn't excessive, it should work OK.   A cheap drop-in barrel like that will probably function all right as long as the proper link is installed.   You want the link to be short enough that it will pull the barrel down before the slide forces its way past the upper lugs.  A good rule of thumb is to pick the shortest link that will allow the slidestop pin to rotate without binding against the lugs.  

You won't win any bullseye matches with this setup, but it should function.


This.  If you want a tight lock up get a match barrel with bushing and have it fitted.