Posted: 2/1/2013 9:30:50 PM EDT
| I have Nighthawk GRP, love the damn thing, but I've found that my hand slips on the slide sometimes when I go to chamber a round. I've noticed that the slide serrations aren't as deep or wide as on my Kimber, which I don't have this problem. Also the finish is nickel-boron and its very slick, not much texture at all. Can serrations be redone? Or would a totally new slide need to be fitted? Is there a way to remedy this issue without using grip tape? I use grip tape on a black gun, but it would look a little tacky on this one. |
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You wouldn't need a new slide fitted. You can send the slide off to several places for remilling of the serrations... you could do it yourself at home with a dremel (just kidding).
Personally, I'd use the grip tape but that's just me. Any reputable gunsmith should be able to accomplish what you're asking... send an email to NightHawk Customs and see if they're willing to recut the serrations and refinish them. |
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thumb cock the hammer first.... I always disliked this as a solution. If you have the absolute need to rack the slide and your life depends on it...you should be able to without having to thumb back the hammer. I vote for deeper/more aggressive serrations. |
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thumb cock the hammer first.... I always disliked this as a solution. If you have the absolute need to rack the slide and your life depends on it...you should be able to without having to thumb back the hammer. I vote for deeper/more aggressive serrations. Yes, that is why I won't thumb the hammer. |
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You are using the overhand method of charging the pistol and not "slingshotting" it? A gunsmith could cut new serations easier than it would be to checker a grip. I prefer overhand, but it really doesn't matter with this gun. My hand will slip either way. |
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I wouldn't have the serrations re-cut, because then you're cutting through the expensive finish. I'd put a 1/2" square of grip tape right in front of the serrations. You don't need very much at all. If I had the serrations done I'd have it refinished, it has holster wear from the original owner anyway. |
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I wouldn't have the serrations re-cut, because then you're cutting through the expensive finish. I'd put a 1/2" square of grip tape right in front of the serrations. You don't need very much at all. If I had the serrations done I'd have it refinished, it has holster wear from the original owner anyway. In that case, I'd look to Nighthawk to do the work. |
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I wouldn't have the serrations re-cut, because then you're cutting through the expensive finish. I'd put a 1/2" square of grip tape right in front of the serrations. You don't need very much at all. If I had the serrations done I'd have it refinished, it has holster wear from the original owner anyway. In that case, I'd look to Nighthawk to do the work. That's what I was thinking. But now I am considering just using tape, its a hell of a lot cheaper |
Renegade, install a 19 pound main spring and run a 14 pound recoil spring. That's what I run in my 5 inch Nighthawk, it's worked perfect with that combo for 1,000's of rounds over 5 years. When I'm carrying in my holster the 1911 is cocked and locked, no need to pull slide back if threat appears. When at the range manually cock hammer first, then pull slide back. When reloading at the range, after last round fires and the slide locks back, leave it locked back and insert fresh magazine and use slide stop to drop slide to reload the pistol. I've had ulnar surgery on both elbows and carpal tunnel surgery on left hand last summer, so I have had to work around the problem of not being able to grip serrations and my little finger numbness making my grip not as strong. I cannot use the overhand method. Try the 14 pound recoil spring from Wolff, I think your Nighthawk already has a 19 pound main spring. The 14 lb spring will NOT cause any damage to your pistol, I know of guys in competition who shoot many thousands of rounds annually using 8 to 12 pound recoil springs with no damage to their 1911's.
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Renegade, install a 19 pound main spring and run a 14 pound recoil spring. That's what I run in my 5 inch Nighthawk, it's worked perfect with that combo for 1,000's of rounds over 5 years. When I'm carrying in my holster the 1911 is cocked and locked, no need to pull slide back if threat appears. When at the range manually cock hammer first, then pull slide back. When reloading at the range, after last round fires and the slide locks back, leave it locked back and insert fresh magazine and use slide stop to drop slide to reload the pistol. I've had ulnar surgery on both elbows and carpal tunnel surgery on left hand last summer, so I have had to work around the problem of not being able to grip serrations and my little finger numbness making my grip not as strong. I cannot use the overhand method. Try the 14 pound recoil spring from Wolff, I think your Nighthawk already has a 19 pound main spring. The 14 lb spring will NOT cause any damage to your pistol, I know of guys in competition who shoot many thousands of rounds annually using 8 to 12 pound recoil springs with no damage to their 1911's. Thanks Irondog, I always carry mine cocked and locked, just like they're meant to be. It's just a pain in the ass trying to get it to chamber something when your hand slips on the slide. This is the only one of my 1911's I have this problem with. I'll look into those springs though once I'm ready to change them out. 
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Renegade, install a 19 pound main spring and run a 14 pound recoil spring. That's what I run in my 5 inch Nighthawk, it's worked perfect with that combo for 1,000's of rounds over 5 years. When I'm carrying in my holster the 1911 is cocked and locked, no need to pull slide back if threat appears. When at the range manually cock hammer first, then pull slide back. When reloading at the range, after last round fires and the slide locks back, leave it locked back and insert fresh magazine and use slide stop to drop slide to reload the pistol. I've had ulnar surgery on both elbows and carpal tunnel surgery on left hand last summer, so I have had to work around the problem of not being able to grip serrations and my little finger numbness making my grip not as strong. I cannot use the overhand method. Try the 14 pound recoil spring from Wolff, I think your Nighthawk already has a 19 pound main spring. The 14 lb spring will NOT cause any damage to your pistol, I know of guys in competition who shoot many thousands of rounds annually using 8 to 12 pound recoil springs with no damage to their 1911's. Thanks Irondog, I always carry mine cocked and locked, just like they're meant to be. It's just a pain in the ass trying to get it to chamber something when your hand slips on the slide. This is the only one of my 1911's I have this problem with. I'll look into those springs though once I'm ready to change them out. Your welcome Brother, the slick finish probably contributes somewhat as does the tightness of the semi custom 1911. The 14 pound pound recoil will dramatically change pulling back the slide as will a high round count, good luck. |