Posted: 7/24/2012 4:27:39 PM EDT
| Ok, I have made up my mind on a 1911 (I think). I want to get a Kimber Warrior. I want to know what upgrades I should do to make sure that the pistol is reliable, accurate and still fairly concealable for a 6'6" 275 pound dude. I am planning thus far to use Wilson Combat magazines and use a Raven holster with a Surefire X300 light. Any constructive thoughts are much appreciated. |
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Nothing. Shoot it and see if you have any problems This. Don't put the cart before the horse. Buy lots of ammo and a good belt and holster. Practice shooting and see what develops. For example. I just bought a Colt Commander NIB. Lovely gun. I put 400 rounds through it and was pleased to find that it runs reliably but cut up the web of my hand and thumb knuckle during shooting. So I installed a drop in beavertail from Wilson and an Ed Brown ambi safety which I had to smooth out to keep it from rubbing my thumb bloody because I'm left handed, that's it. Shoot first, then know. |
| considering a new warrior cost over a grand you better not have to do anything to it for it to run perfectly. As others said buy it shoot it. If it works for the sake of god leave it alone. more 1911's are made into non functional paperweights by overzealous owners with cash and a brownell's catalog than any other cause. |
I have a good belt, but it is a great suggestion. As far as ammo goes, I have just barely enough .45acp (6000 ball, 1500hp)  . I will probably get a bit more when I but the Kimber. I am sure that makes Bloomberg shiver. I have read from multiple sources that Wilson combat mags are the best. Are there any more that I should look in to getting a few to try? I like to have 15 quality mags for each hand gun, I am paranoid.
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Read the following before purchasing.
Hilton Yam's thoughts on the Warrior It's a couple years old and the guns are older still, but it's something to keep in mind. |
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Read the following before purchasing. Hilton Yam's thoughts on the Warrior It's a couple years old and the guns are older still, but it's something to keep in mind. I am having a hard time discerning which of these problems are no-biggies and which are huge issues. The grip screws are not a big deal at all. I have more locktite than I am willing to admit. The Kimber mags are already a known POS. The screwy extractor seems to be an issue, but I do not know what an average service life on one is??? The misshapen feed ramps seems odd, I usually polish my feed ramps on all semi-autos after I get a few hundred rounds through them. The MIM parts seem to be a concern to me, I am not educated in manufacturing techniques enough to make an intelligent decision on them  .
I guess I need to keep researching them, is it a safe conclusion that a lot of these issues have been rectified since 2010? Thank you for the link, the more I read about 1911s the more I worry about spending a grand plus on one 
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| Next question. I currently carry Hornady TAP 230 +P in my carry gun. I am curious if it would damage a 1911 by shooting +P ammo out of it. I don't shoot it all the time, I am not made of money, but like to shoot my carry ammo maybe say 200 rounds a year. I cycle my current mag through about every month. And shoot a few more mags every now and again. The reason I am asking; It seems that in the 1911 design, there would be a lot of force put on the slide stop and the frame in the are it gos in to the frame. Is that going to be an issue? |
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Check out a Springfield TRPDan Wesson specialist if you can, before you commit to the Kimber. You might change your mind. Anyway, as others have said, whatever you choose, shoot a few hundred mixed rounds through it before doing anything Both the Dan Wessen specialist and Springfield TRP are a bit more that I was hoping to spend. They would leave me very little $$$ to buy extra mags. |
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Next question. I currently carry Hornady TAP 230 +P in my carry gun. I am curious if it would damage a 1911 by shooting +P ammo out of it. I don't shoot it all the time, I am not made of money, but like to shoot my carry ammo maybe say 200 rounds a year. I cycle my current mag through about every month. And shoot a few more mags every now and again. The reason I am asking; It seems that in the 1911 design, there would be a lot of force put on the slide stop and the frame in the are it gos in to the frame. Is that going to be an issue? Install a 18.5 recoil spring and you will be fine. You could also change the FP stop over to a EGW no radius one for more recoil force impact reduction. Keep in mind the same frame (and parts) works for 10mm, 50 gi, and 45 Super with little more than a recoil spring change. |
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Ok, I have made up my mind on a 1911 (I think). I want to get a Kimber Warrior. I want to know what upgrades I should do to make sure that the pistol is reliable, accurate and still fairly concealable for a 6'6" 275 pound dude. I am planning thus far to use Wilson Combat magazines and use a Raven holster with a Surefire X300 light. Any constructive thoughts are much appreciated. Thats the only thing I would tell you to do. I have the Warrior too and that is the only thing it really needed because those factory Kimber mags are CRAP. |
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this is just personal preference, but i like having an extended slide release. I have played with using an extended slide release on other auto-pistols. I usually pull the slide rearward when returning the weapon to battery after a mag change. I will have to see if my mind changes once I get acclimated with the platform. |
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this is just personal preference, but i like having an extended slide release. I have played with using an extended slide release on other auto-pistols. I usually pull the slide rearward when returning the weapon to battery after a mag change. I will have to see if my mind changes once I get acclimated with the platform. I personally believe that pulling the slide back and letting it fly gives you a better first round feed. That's just like, man, my opinion based on my experience. 
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