Posted: 2/5/2011 9:42:18 AM EDT
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Bought this this week for a song. The slide is too far forward, Notice the slide to the frame front/back alignment, All functions seem to work. The slide is fit perfect other than this. Ive seen it shoot with no issues,
Leave it alone? or get it worked? Whats going on here? ETA the frame is Aluminum, Federal Ordnance, US built. The slide is a 4.25" Isreal Arms Ltd. All parts are hand fitted. 
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it's fine. some 1911s do this. Typically you see this on lower cost 1911s. If the gun shoots and is reliable then I wouldn't worry about it but I seriously don't the statement about the parts being "hand fit." I have to say, this is by far my lowest cost 1911, ever. |
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Where the slide stops in relation to the frame is controlled by the barrel's lower lugs. This is the kind of stuff that happens when 1911s are built from drop-in or take-off parts. If it cycles fine, it's not anything to worry about. This. However, make sure you take a close look at the lower lugs on the barrel. It may have been fitted incorrectly (too much material removed so that the lugs are too thin) and could potentially need a new barrel to even be safe to shoot. |
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Where the slide stops in relation to the frame is controlled by the barrel's lower lugs. This is the kind of stuff that happens when 1911s are built from drop-in or take-off parts. If it cycles fine, it's not anything to worry about. This. However, make sure you take a close look at the lower lugs on the barrel. It may have been fitted incorrectly (too much material removed so that the lugs are too thin) and could potentially need a new barrel to even be safe to shoot. This ....... I wouldnt grind on the frame without looking at the barrel first. If you have other 1911's, compare a couple and see. |
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Quoted: That.Quoted: Where the slide stops in relation to the frame is controlled by the barrel's lower lugs. This is the kind of stuff that happens when 1911s are built from drop-in or take-off parts. If it cycles fine, it's not anything to worry about. This. One of the things done during fitting a 1911 from parts is to check the lower lugs/slide stop engagement. It's the slide stop that will stop the barrel's forward motion. Take the gun down, insert the slide stop into the barrel link and have it rest against the barrel lugs, as if the gun was in battery: A good fit would require the barrel link to have the link perfectly vertical ( correct me if I'm wrong). If the lower lugs have been machined too much, the link will stop further back and this will let the slide come farther than you'd like. |
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That.
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Where the slide stops in relation to the frame is controlled by the barrel's lower lugs. This is the kind of stuff that happens when 1911s are built from drop-in or take-off parts. If it cycles fine, it's not anything to worry about. This. One of the things done during fitting a 1911 from parts is to check the lower lugs/slide stop engagement. It's the slide stop that will stop the barrel's forward motion. Take the gun down, insert the slide stop into the barrel link and have it rest against the barrel lugs, as if the gun was in battery: A good fit would require the barrel link to have the link perfectly vertical ( correct me if I'm wrong). If the lower lugs have been machined too much, the link will stop further back and this will let the slide come farther than you'd like. It's a barrel issue as already pointed out. Is it original barrel? Do a Google search on fitting a 1911 barrel and "smoke the barrel" or use dychem on upper and lower lugs and hood to see what type of engagement you are getting. Make sure it returns to "full" battery first then go from there. |
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Quoted: ETA the frame is Aluminum, Federal Ordnance, US built. Blending in the frame is going to cut through the anodizing and having the frame re anodized is going to cost you more than it's worth, IMHO. Either check or have the lower lug fit of the barrel checked and if good leave it alone. |
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Tons of great replies!
I could care less about the finish, this is an ugly gun with two issues (ugly hammer and slide to far forward), meant for the glovebox. Id rather fix it right than shave the frame. Wish there was a 1911 guy here in DFW. perhaps a barrel/bushing/link/pin from sarco would be a good investment to learn with? |
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Tons of great replies! I could care less about the finish, this is an ugly gun with two issues (ugly hammer and slide to far forward), meant for the glovebox. Id rather fix it right than shave the frame. Wish there was a 1911 guy here in DFW. perhaps a barrel/bushing/link/pin from sarco would be a good investment to learn with? How about AGW ? |
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Is the barrel loose? is there any movement at all at the bushing when the slide is closed? how about when the slide is locked back ... how much movement in and out or up and down do you have in the barrel then? it shouldn't be that much.
If you do decide to get a new barrel bushing I would suggest EGW ... all you have to do is measure the ID of the slide and OD of the barrel ... call them with those measurements ... I personally like the angle bored bushing it makes for smooth action but really tight lock up ... if nothing else it will improve on the accuracy of the pistol for sure. |