Posted: 1/19/2011 6:24:00 PM EDT
| What exactly is the benefit of switching to a FLGR in a 5" 1911? Gun in question is a Kimber Warrior if it matters...Thanks |
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Quoted: Fantastic... I thought maybe it made assembly easier than trying to capture that F-ing spring between the plug and the short rod...or I thought it had something to do with accuracy and keeping the slide more stable...but hey whatever... It can actually make it harder to assemble/disassemble if you use the solid guide rods. You have to press in the spring cup just like a standard 1911, except instead of a textured button, you have a knife-edged ring. Some people have to use a bushing wrench or other tool to do it. |
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FLGR's have their purpose, they just aren't needed on personal protection guns like the Warrior. On a gun that will see competition shooting the FLGR can add some desired weight to the pistol.
And one-piece FLGR's are not as hap-hazard as two piece units, and can usually be taken apart without the use of a tool. |
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I am putting a Wilson Combat 1 piece FLGR into a custom I am building for 2 reasons:
1. It looks cool in my opinion 2. I like the idea of a little extra weight in the front Everything I have read suggests that there is not a large difference between a FLGR and a standard setup as far as reliability is concerned. Both work. I think the FLGR gets a bonus point for possibly limiting the chance of spring binding. I plan to use a bushing wrench with this pistol, so I do not mind having a sharp spring cup edge. I doubt I will ever be caught in a situation where I must fix a recoil spring problem during a gunfight, but if I were, then that is where the extra weight from a FLGR would come in handy as I would likely be using my pistol as a bludgeoning device at that point. |
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Quoted: No advantage to a full length guide rod. As a matter of fact I went the other way when I had a Full Size Kimber. Took out the FLGR and went with a Short GI Guide and plug. I'm thinking of doing this on my 5" Kimber, but it has an aluminum frame. What weight would I use? Also, to add something pertinent to the OP––the FLGR that's in the Kimber in question is an alright piece, but I use the back flat of a magazine to depress the damn plunger cup thingy. It's just an irritant. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Fantastic... I thought maybe it made assembly easier than trying to capture that F-ing spring between the plug and the short rod...or I thought it had something to do with accuracy and keeping the slide more stable...but hey whatever... It can actually make it harder to assemble/disassemble if you use the solid guide rods. You have to press in the spring cup just like a standard 1911, except instead of a textured button, you have a knife-edged ring. Some people have to use a bushing wrench or other tool to do it. IMHO it makes dis-assembly easier...And it looks cool too!! 
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| Had one on my TRP. As many stated in the past, it's more of a pain than anything. I thankfully didn't end up having mine unscrew itself and launch itself while at the range but probably came close to that. After a range session, went to clean the gun and found the guide rod had nearly unscrewed itself. That was enough to convince me to go the GI route. I don't have to worry about that now. |
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I can't really see how people think the FLGR "looks cooler" when it's hidden inside the gun.
Personally I see them as a minor annoyance, with no real benefits outside of a couple of situations. 1) easier to switch top ends for .22 conversions, etc., and 2) pretty much required on a bull barrel gun. |
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It stops me from taking the slide off unless it needs a good cleaning.
Overall if it didn't offer more accuracy or reliability I wouldn't think it's worth the hassle of having to take it apart (Are they all two piece?). My gun came with it, and that's what's going to stay in there though.. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
No advantage to a full length guide rod. As a matter of fact I went the other way when I had a Full Size Kimber. Took out the FLGR and went with a Short GI Guide and plug. I'm thinking of doing this on my 5" Kimber, but it has an aluminum frame. What weight would I use? What weight of what? The spring? |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
No advantage to a full length guide rod. As a matter of fact I went the other way when I had a Full Size Kimber. Took out the FLGR and went with a Short GI Guide and plug. I'm thinking of doing this on my 5" Kimber, but it has an aluminum frame. What weight would I use? Go to Brownells and search for Recoil Spring Guide and for Recoil Spring Plug. Pick one for your choice of finish and for the govt. model. You can reuse your old Recoil Spring. |
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Quoted: Whoops––-editing strikes again. Yes, the spring. ThanksQuoted: Quoted: No advantage to a full length guide rod. As a matter of fact I went the other way when I had a Full Size Kimber. Took out the FLGR and went with a Short GI Guide and plug. I'm thinking of doing this on my 5" Kimber, but it has an aluminum frame. What weight would I use? Go to Brownells and search for Recoil Spring Guide and for Recoil Spring Plug. Pick one for your choice of finish and for the govt. model. You can reuse your old Recoil Spring. Also, to once again be relevant to the OP without totally derailing––-yes, as someone else mentioned, the FLGR does make swapping out for a .22 top end a little easier. Though, I think that having to use a tool (rather than one's hand) to get the knife-edged recoil plug thingy for the FLGR makes it vastly more likely to cause the "part flying across the room" syndrome. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Whoops––-editing strikes again. Yes, the spring. Thanks
Quoted:
Quoted:
No advantage to a full length guide rod. As a matter of fact I went the other way when I had a Full Size Kimber. Took out the FLGR and went with a Short GI Guide and plug. I'm thinking of doing this on my 5" Kimber, but it has an aluminum frame. What weight would I use? Go to Brownells and search for Recoil Spring Guide and for Recoil Spring Plug. Pick one for your choice of finish and for the govt. model. You can reuse your old Recoil Spring. Also, to once again be relevant to the OP without totally derailing––-yes, as someone else mentioned, the FLGR does make swapping out for a .22 top end a little easier. Though, I think that having to use a tool (rather than one's hand) to get the knife-edged recoil plug thingy for the FLGR makes it vastly more likely to cause the "part flying across the room" syndrome. To answer the question I always used 18.5# springs in my 5". |