Posted: 11/2/2010 4:38:57 PM EDT
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I own an S.A. G.I. that had the Enhanced 1* package performed by the former Yost-Bonitz custom a few years ago. While the gun is reliable and accurate, the slide to frame fit is loose and I would prefer the front strap checkered. Springfield Armory can hand checker the front strap using the existing serrations for around $200 and the slide to frame fit will probably be another $200. What say you? I really like this gun and do not want to sell it to fund something else.
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While the gun is reliable and accurate... No need to mess with a good thing. I made the mistake of having a pre-series II Kimber "tightened" up and while it still runs well, it is nothing like it used to be. It ejects sloppily now and I wish I had just left it alone. I had never had a failure in the gun shooting, but thought that while I was having the trigger worked on I would go ahead and do some other work. It was a mistake. |
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Depends really, do they just peen and squeeze? If so it aint worth the money other than a short time of getting to show off the "Look how tight the lockup is". That method does not last too long if you do any kind of shooting. When it comes to checkering, every 1911 should be checkered if you ask me. |
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I'd leave it as it and shoot the hell out of it.  I have been shooting it, not as often as would like, but it has not been safe queen by any means. As for the checkering. My other 1911 as it and I'm used the feel and grip. I find myself always having to re-adjust my grip with the serrations, more so than if there was nothing. The serrations do look nice, but if you grip too tightly they actually slice into your fingers. I don't get cut, but like I said, I find myself always searching for a happy medium. The slide to frame fit was something to be done as a preventive measure to reduce excessive wear and tare. The gun is solid other than these two issues. |
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Keep in mind that the barrel to slide fit is much more important than the slide to frame fit. Also a loose pistol is more reliable than a tight pistol.
If you get it checkered and it is too sharp just hit it with some sandpaper, and I would go with 30lpi rather than 20lpi. You just want it to not slip not cut you. Jim |
| Probably an obvious "I'm a 1911-noob" question but...When it comes to slide/frame fit, isn't this basically a non-issue in terms of accuracy? I imagine that the barrel/slide fit would determine how accurate the pistol was while the slide/frame fit would hamper reliability if it was too tight? |
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I'd say get it checkered (and make sure to tell them to slightly knock the edges off the points of the 20lpi) and run with it. I've handled many TRP's and I love the pistol, but that 20 LPI machine checkering that comes from Springfield is awefully sharp, and I've got plenty of caluses on my hands to take the bite out of them. I'm getting a pistol checkered at 25lpi, and, while a very small difference on paper, is a world of difference in the hand. Consequently, 30lpi is the smallest I'd go for a front strap though. After that, your grip will start diminishing (thus defeating the point of the checkering in the first place).
I've got a GI that's got some battle rattle to it, but it's more than accurate enough for a defensive pistol. I'm not great, but I can hold 2.5" at 15yds with slightly less than 1 second per round fired and GI sights. If nothing is being galled or looks like it's wearing too fast, leave it. Hope this helps. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Probably an obvious "I'm a 1911-noob" question but...When it comes to slide/frame fit, isn't this basically a non-issue in terms of accuracy? I imagine that the barrel/slide fit would determine how accurate the pistol was while the slide/frame fit would hamper reliability if it was too tight? Slide to frame fit has been quoted as being the last 5% lending to accuracy. However, a moderately tight slight to frame fit (About what you feel on a new Kimber or TRP) is great and should not negatively affect reliability. Slide to frame fit changes the overall feel of a gun, which can improve accuracy dependent on the user. Because to the gun's lock up is better the gun feels like one solid piece and there are less distracting variable movements causing you to lose focus. Additionally, too loose of a gun and you will see parts wear out faster and sometimes break. My gun is moderately loose, but not extreme. I will probably just leave at is and just get the checkering. I will have Springfield Armory "feather-down" so to speak the points on the 20lpi as it usually is pretty sharp form SA. I need to support my local business first and finish my sleeve (tattoo). Then support an American company and their talented Smiths... |
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Quoted: Keep in mind that the barrel to slide fit is much more important than the slide to frame fit. Also a loose pistol is more reliable than a tight pistol. If you get it checkered and it is too sharp just hit it with some sandpaper, and I would go with 30lpi rather than 20lpi. You just want it to not slip not cut you. Jim Bullshit wives tale. Ive had pistols that were loose that wouldnt feed for shit and tight ones that would. It all comes down to much more than a play between the slide and frame. I still cant believe people believe that. |
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Keep in mind that the barrel to slide fit is much more important than the slide to frame fit. Also a loose pistol is more reliable than a tight pistol. If you get it checkered and it is too sharp just hit it with some sandpaper, and I would go with 30lpi rather than 20lpi. You just want it to not slip not cut you. Jim Bullshit wives tale. Ive had pistols that were loose that wouldnt feed for shit and tight ones that would. It all comes down to much more than a play between the slide and frame. I still cant believe people believe that. I have had, and seen, pistols during a long match that would start to have problems because of powder fouling. The oil or grease used to lube the slide picks the crap up and it would slightly slow the slide. On the other hand I have jumped into a creek then wrestled in mud while carrying that old Colt. It had enough slack between the slide and frame it still cycled perfectly even full of crap and crud. I am not saying a loose pistol will never fail to function, or that a tight pistol will always fail if dirty. But the fact is that the tighter the tolerances the more prone to fouling causing problems. Jim |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Keep in mind that the barrel to slide fit is much more important than the slide to frame fit. Also a loose pistol is more reliable than a tight pistol. If you get it checkered and it is too sharp just hit it with some sandpaper, and I would go with 30lpi rather than 20lpi. You just want it to not slip not cut you. Jim Bullshit wives tale. Ive had pistols that were loose that wouldnt feed for shit and tight ones that would. It all comes down to much more than a play between the slide and frame. I still cant believe people believe that. I have had, and seen, pistols during a long match that would start to have problems because of powder fouling. The oil or grease used to lube the slide picks the crap up and it would slightly slow the slide. On the other hand I have jumped into a creek then wrestled in mud while carrying that old Colt. It had enough slack between the slide and frame it still cycled perfectly even full of crap and crud. I am not saying a loose pistol will never fail to function, or that a tight pistol will always fail if dirty. But the fact is that the tighter the tolerances the more prone to fouling causing problems. Jim Sorry, its just not true. I run both the pistols in my avatar over 1500 rounds between cleanings using lead reloads and they dont choke. Ones tight as a Catholic chick and the other has tolerances of a TRP. Why? Theyre built right, the frame holds the mags to the correct geometry, feedramp is done correctly, the barrel bed, the timing is as good as you can time them. Etc etc. Thats what makes a reliable 1911. The benefit of a closely toleranced 1911 is longevity. |
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Keep in mind that the barrel to slide fit is much more important than the slide to frame fit. Also a loose pistol is more reliable than a tight pistol. If you get it checkered and it is too sharp just hit it with some sandpaper, and I would go with 30lpi rather than 20lpi. You just want it to not slip not cut you. Jim Bullshit wives tale. Ive had pistols that were loose that wouldnt feed for shit and tight ones that would. It all comes down to much more than a play between the slide and frame. I still cant believe people believe that. I have had, and seen, pistols during a long match that would start to have problems because of powder fouling. The oil or grease used to lube the slide picks the crap up and it would slightly slow the slide. On the other hand I have jumped into a creek then wrestled in mud while carrying that old Colt. It had enough slack between the slide and frame it still cycled perfectly even full of crap and crud. I am not saying a loose pistol will never fail to function, or that a tight pistol will always fail if dirty. But the fact is that the tighter the tolerances the more prone to fouling causing problems. Jim Sorry, its just not true. I run both the pistols in my avatar over 1500 rounds between cleanings using lead reloads and they dont choke. Ones tight as a Catholic chick and the other has tolerances of a TRP. Why? Theyre built right, the frame holds the mags to the correct geometry, feedramp is done correctly, the barrel bed, the timing is as good as you can time them. Etc etc. Thats what makes a reliable 1911. The benefit of a closely toleranced 1911 is longevity. Beltfed are your 1911s factory or custom? The problem I ran into was with a basically stock SA Loaded that I use for Bullseye and plate matches. It is tight. I use grease and the weather was pretty cool when I had the problem with mine. It may have been the combination of fouling and cold grease but I had a few FTE. On the other hand I had to wash out the Colt a few times- I had a reputation of chasing anyone who ran anywhere. I didn't exactly try a torture test but I did run a couple of mags through it just after the creek chase. It had no problems. My Sgt. was an ex armorer and told me to not have it tightened and accurized or it might develop problems. I was just a street cop and hoped to never have to use it, but it had to work every time if I did need it. A custom pistol might be able to take sand and mud, etc. but I don't know if I would be able to stake my life on it. Jim |