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AR15.COM
2/23/2004 9:14:00 AM EDT
Hi
First time posting on pistol forum today. But I was wondering what kind of things to do to to my colt 1911 Mk IV to make it more reliable. As it is right now it shoots like sh-t couldn't hit a bull in the a-- if I was standing next to him. I was a better shot with the one I was issued when I was in the military. I've had the throat polished but that about all to try and help. But it still does not eject right and accuracy is bad. I was wondering if someone could give me some info on what I need to do. I thought about sending it to Wilson combat and letting them work it over. But that might be a little more money. Is there an easy fix? I would like to carry it as a cw but the way it functions the only way I could use it is to throw it at them.
                  Thanks                
2/23/2004 9:25:14 AM EDT
[#1]
A new barrel bushing (fitted properly), trigger job, heavier recoil spring (depending on loads your shooting) w/ recoil buffer or group-gripper installed and having the pistol throated and ramped should make a considerable difference over the stock Colts grouping and reliability.

Find a good gunsmith, one who preferably specializes in 1911s.

Mike
2/23/2004 1:48:32 PM EDT
[#2]
BEFORE you spend boocoo $$$, do a couple of things.

First, try a bunch of different ammo. Guns do not love all ammo equally.

Next, have someone else shoot the gun & see if they have the same problems you did.

Lastly, look for anything obvious in fitting or burrs.

If you do all that & it's STILL a POS, I'd give Cylinder & Slide or MacDougal & Associates a shot. MacDougal specializes in Colts. They used to have a web site.

Good luck.
2/23/2004 2:23:57 PM EDT
[#3]
Don't go to a big name smith the little name guys can do work just as well for a lot less money and with shorter turnaround times.

You could install a drop in SS Jarvis bull barrel with cone lockup ajustable bushing for $175 or so and that will give you 1-2inch 25yd groups. That is basically a drop-in that fits every bit as good as a gunsmith fitted barrel.

Or you could hand fit you own Kart easy fit match barrel for $190 and then sell the fitting tools for $20 here (half what you pay for them and make it $170

Or for around $200 Josh halfman in Oregon will re-weld and re-fit your existing parts and your gun will do 1.5-2inches at 25yds. (fitted slide to frame and fitted barrel and bushing)

For $350 or so he will do that with a match grade barrel and that should give you 1.5inch groups at 25yds.

While it's out there it could get a trigger job for $55-75 (he does triggers as low as 1.5lbs.)< with triggers below 2.5 you may need new components IE tool steel hammer and sear.

With a trigger job and accuracy job your gun will shoot circles around it's old self.

all accuracy figures are machine rest, or good shooter/bench rest figures

If you use Halfman make sure he guarantees a time frame, he can be slow if you don't.


My friend has a MKIV series 70 (bone stock) and my dad has a Halfman Custom MKIV series 70 and my friends shoots shotgun patterns (pie plate style 13inch groups at 25yds and my dad's will shoot 3inch 8rd groups offhand standing from a weaver stance at 25yds.  That should give you an idea of the difference it can make.
2/23/2004 2:31:23 PM EDT
[#4]
As far as reliability work your gun could probably use a new extractor and new recoil spring.

Or you could simply remove your current extractor clean the crap out of the hole and clean the extractor and put a little more tension on it (bend it slightly) and put it back in and try that.

1911 extractors are great but you need to remove them and clean them every 500rds to ensure they will last the life of the gun and follow the rules:

1 don't single load ammo without putting the round in a magazine, this will round the hook on the extractor, remove the tension, and can break the extractor. (when loaded from a mag the rim slides up and under the extractor, when single loading the hook has to HOP over the rim, something it was never designed to do.

2 don't cock the 1911 and then release the slide on an empty chamber, this rounds the hammer/sear engagement (ruining the trigger job) and can't be good for the barrel, barrel link, and bushing.  Ride the slide forward when you do not have a loaded magazine in place. (believe it or not the round actually cushions the slide as it slams forward.)