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Posted: 5/7/2003 10:59:02 PM EDT
Ok, My 1911's grip threads (on the actual frame, where the bushings go in) are totally GONE in one hole (bushing slides in and out freely), and there's not much left in another...

How do I fix this?

I asked this question before in General, but it's gone now & I can't recover it...

Any suggestions? Preferrably ones that will permit the future changing of grip bushings if they wear out too...
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 11:20:18 PM EDT
Brownell's sells both the oversize bushings you need and a tap for them.

www.brownells.com
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 11:21:28 PM EDT
IIRC, Brownells sells a replacement set that's a bit oversized in order to "make" new threads.

Hope this helps.
Link Posted: 5/8/2003 7:17:35 AM EDT
You could have someone TIG up the hole, and then redrill and retap.
Link Posted: 5/8/2003 8:54:55 AM EDT
good advice above. took an old clunker 1911 in trade back in the 60's. it had this problem. i used steel based epoxy on the threads and screwed them in. let it cure for a couple days. filed off the excess and it was good to go. advised the guy i sold it to and he said he was wanting a clunker so if it happened again he would just glue the grip panels on.

had i this prob on a better gun i would do the drill and tap thing.
Link Posted: 5/8/2003 5:31:22 PM EDT
The tap and over sized bushings from Brownells are the way to go. The tap is sized so that it will work in the stripped hole with no real preperation, just apply some oil and tap away. Once in the over sized bushing looks just like any other. It sucks to buy the tap for just one hole but once in hand the process takes 2 minutes and the results are profesional.
Link Posted: 5/8/2003 7:31:47 PM EDT

Originally Posted By CounterStrike:
The tap and over sized bushings from Brownells are the way to go. The tap is sized so that it will work in the stripped hole with no real preperation, just apply some oil and tap away. Once in the over sized bushing looks just like any other. It sucks to buy the tap for just one hole but once in hand the process takes 2 minutes and the results are profesional.



One or two gun shops in Milwaukee do gunsmithing. I think I'll ask around and see if anyone HAS the tap and would do it (or the weld/drill/tap) for me...

I have lasergrips on this gun, so I need to be able to take them off to change batteries...
Link Posted: 5/8/2003 7:56:32 PM EDT
Link Posted: 5/9/2003 10:58:54 PM EDT

Originally Posted By MickeyMouse:
A friend of mine has the tap. Both he and I are FFL so let me know if I can help.



I'm gonna look around locally next week, but if that fails, would you possibly be interested in some sort of deposit arrangement to borrow your tap and a handle (since IIRC you can't use a drill press to tap something)??? That would probably be easier than me shipping my .45 (USPS doesn't handle pistols, IIRC) to you...
Link Posted: 5/19/2003 6:57:16 PM EDT
I use a drill press for tapping. Although usually not under power. It has the advantage of holding the tap in exact alignment with the hole that was just drilled. I turn them in by hand (with the chuck body) for the smaller taps. With the larger ones, I switch to a handle after the tap's been started in nice and straight. Of course, if the hole already exists, then it needs to be aligned with the chuck.
Under power is good when doing lots of holes.
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