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Posted: 3/22/2006 2:08:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/22/2006 4:24:27 PM EDT by chapperjoe]
Seems like htey have a staff of monkeys who plan these things at ruger. Same thing happened with my ruger pc9 when I got it. I'm giving this 1 more hour, then I'm returning it. I still haven't shot it. Man I'm happy.

By now I've got it apart and lubed, but been trying to get it back together. manual leaves out that mag has to be in well to get mainspring housing latch shut. Got it shut, now hammer isn't moving, trigger does nothing and slide won't go back half the time. Can't get MS"H out to see why. DEFINITELY returning this now.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 2:15:22 PM EDT
It's best if someone just shows you for the first time. that little plunger in the grip can be a pain to align just right. Just follow the instructions carefully, especially when it says to press the trigger. I hate that mag disconnect wich drives me crazy (having ot have the mag in to press the trigger, and then out for disassembly). Note to remember to take the mag out before trying to tap off the upper.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 2:23:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/22/2006 2:31:39 PM EDT by chapperjoe]

Originally Posted By Dragonfly228:
It's best if someone just shows you for the first time. that little plunger in the grip can be a pain to align just right. Just follow the instructions carefully, especially when it says to press the trigger. I hate that mag disconnect wich drives me crazy (having ot have the mag in to press the trigger, and then out for disassembly). Note to remember to take the mag out before trying to tap off the upper.



it's just completely stuck now, can't move anything in any manner. I'm done with this pistol.



not even gonna sell it now. I'm gonna destroy it and document the process and post pics later.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 2:44:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/22/2006 2:44:56 PM EDT by chapperjoe]
HAHAHA VICTORY IS MINE - it should say this in the manual. All I had to do was put a long screw driver in teh magwell, and use a mallet to bang the demons out of the pistol. MSH came right out. I went at it like I had Bin Ladens testicals in there. Really wailed on em. Also threw it at my wall four times. Guess that loosened it up.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 2:47:57 PM EDT
Before you put the MSH back in, you need to pull the trigger and make sure the hammer is forward.

Then make sure the hammer strut isn't stuck behind the pin in the middle of the grip.

Put the MSH back on, make sure it goes INTO THE HOLE ALL THE WAY.

Then hold the muzzle up, put the MSH back in, make sure the hammer strut is caught by the MSH, and you're done.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 2:48:43 PM EDT
BTW, disassembly/reassembly is a lot easier if you remove the mag disconnector. It's useless anyway.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 2:57:12 PM EDT
get a browning or beretta if you want a easy to field strip .22 pistol
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 2:58:15 PM EDT
just reassmebled again as per instructions, same result. Ijust let out a REALLY loud fuuuuuuuuuck.

One thing bothers me above all others. IT says no less than twice that you should pull trigger while pointing pistol up/down and let gravity move hammer into cocked/uncocked position..

WHAT IN FUCKS SAKE MAKES THEM THINK THE HAMMER MOVES? IT DOESN'T!!!!! nada. I have to move it manually into the position iunstructed every time.

I gotta go throw it four or five times, then go at the mag well with a mallet again to get MSH out and try again.

Link Posted: 3/22/2006 2:59:44 PM EDT

Originally Posted By STG77:
Before you put the MSH back in, you need to pull the trigger and make sure the hammer is forward.

Then make sure the hammer strut isn't stuck behind the pin in the middle of the grip.

Put the MSH back on, make sure it goes INTO THE HOLE ALL THE WAY.

Then hold the muzzle up, put the MSH back in, make sure the hammer strut is caught by the MSH, and you're done.



I have no idea what that means.I put the hammer manually forward as instructed, hold hte trigger down (which does nothing since there's no mag in teh mag well, and close MSH.

There's no where else for the hammer strut to go? I see clearly where it should go and it goes there every time.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 3:04:47 PM EDT

Originally Posted By chapperjoe:

Originally Posted By STG77:
Before you put the MSH back in, you need to pull the trigger and make sure the hammer is forward.

Then make sure the hammer strut isn't stuck behind the pin in the middle of the grip.

Put the MSH back on, make sure it goes INTO THE HOLE ALL THE WAY.

Then hold the muzzle up, put the MSH back in, make sure the hammer strut is caught by the MSH, and you're done.



I have no idea what that means.I put the hammer manually forward as instructed, hold hte trigger down (which does nothing since there's no mag in teh mag well, and close MSH.

There's no where else for the hammer strut to go? I see clearly where it should go and it goes there every time.




Are you talking about the plunger on the MSH? That is where the hammer strut needs to go.

If it's not there, the bolt won't move.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 3:07:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/22/2006 3:08:50 PM EDT by STG77]









MAKE SURE THE HAMMER STRUT IS FREE TO MOVE, NOT STUCK BEHIND THE FRAME CROSS PIN. OTHERWISE IT WON'T GO INTO THE MAINSPRING CAP.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 3:17:47 PM EDT
lemme see.

and a by the way: If I were to document the various inconsistencies int eh manual, we would be here ALL night.

It says to initially put the hammer in cocked position, then pop the top on, then return hammer to cocked position. WHAT THE FUCK WROTE THIS PIECE OF SHIT? Do they expect some magic hammer fairy come and pop my hammer up? Not to mention the fact that NOWHERE in any of the ONE steps in between there was no mag in teh lower so the hammer CAN'T FUCKING MOVE!!!!! not to mention the fact pointing teh muzzle up and ulling trigger DOESN'T MOVE THE HAMMER. how can GRAVITY affect something that weighs a GODDAMNED MOTHERFUCKING OUNCE!

a;oes[gPEWOUR ]PWQObaW
[W JTKW23 ERBAWERBAWETRBQRTA
ErfTWEJROTJWE[RPT\W
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Link Posted: 3/22/2006 3:19:48 PM EDT

Originally Posted By chapperjoe:
lemme see.

and a by the way: If I were to document the various inconsistencies int eh manual, we would be here ALL night.

It says to initially put the hammer in cocked position, then pop the top on, then return hammer to cocked position. WHAT THE FUCK WROTE THIS PIECE OF SHIT? Do they expect some magic hammer fairy come and pop my hammer up? Not to mention the fact that NOWHERE in any of the ONE steps in between there was no mag in teh lower so the hammer CAN'T FUCKING MOVE!!!!! not to mention the fact pointing teh muzzle up and ulling trigger DOESN'T MOVE THE HAMMER. how can GRAVITY affect something that weighs a GODDAMNED MOTHERFUCKING OUNCE!

a;oes[gPEWOUR ]PWQObaW
[W JTKW23 ERBAWERBAWETRBQRTA
ErfTWEJROTJWE[RPT\W
ERPIBU
WE[PTU Q
WPEJR
TJQWP[ERTQ







Did you get it to work yet?
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 3:25:48 PM EDT
nothing. going on 8 hours.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 3:33:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/22/2006 3:33:51 PM EDT by chapperjoe]
how about this: without the upper off and with lower assembled right, when I thumb hammer back it goes too far back and locks up.


when I puch back on the pin that sticks up (Where the screwdriver is pointing), the hammer clicks up to the normal cocked position:



so I'm guessing that my problem is that the upper and lower are not lining up right placing the pin int he wrong orientation locking up the hammer.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 3:37:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/22/2006 3:39:12 PM EDT by STG77]
ok, I see what you mean

The easiest way to test fit the MSH pin to make sure the upper and lower are aligned is to put it in through the top of the upper.

f it goes all the way in without any resistance, put the gun back together. if not, tap the lower backwards/forwards/sideways to get it to fit right.


if you need to push the pin towards the back of the grip to make it work right, the grip frame is not on the upper far enough. since it's new it will be a really tight fit. find a block of wood and tap it on with a hammer.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 3:44:08 PM EDT
nope she's through and through. same result third time around.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 3:45:56 PM EDT
bolt stays back when pulled even with no mag and mags fit VERY VERY tight when reassembled.

hammer adn trigger non-functional.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 3:46:29 PM EDT
well, I don't know what to tell you...if you were closer I could show you how to do it in person.


Maybe somebody local who's familiar with Rugers can look at it?
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 3:53:50 PM EDT
Maybe the piece of shit that designed this can suck my fucking ass.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 4:05:37 PM EDT
gettin good help here now.

one of the senior fellas there has narrowed down the issue.

http://www.markii.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=4219&st=15&#entry31420
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 4:17:35 PM EDT
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 4:22:37 PM EDT
all is well. thanks to the guys at MarkII.org. Thanks for putting up with me! Sorry to my neighbors and their little kids! I'll post a link for anyone who's having this problem when they get theirs' too!
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 4:24:35 PM EDT
here's teh thread: http://www.markii.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=4219
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 5:06:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/22/2006 5:06:35 PM EDT by Nosmik]
I think I am going to put the MKIII buy on hold and look at the Buckmark.
Is the Browning lefty friendly?

Good luck CJ.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 6:05:45 PM EDT
My MarkII was pretty straight forward. I think I will stick with it.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 6:35:14 PM EDT

Originally Posted By STG77:
BTW, disassembly/reassembly is a lot easier if you remove the mag disconnector. It's useless anyway.



Can you clarify this for me? I would like to get a 22/45 but was going to look for a Mark II because I won't own a gun which won't fire without the magazine in. Are you saying that you can remove a part from a Mark III and make it function like a Mark II in this respect? Thanks.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 7:20:36 PM EDT

POSTED by twonami
get a browning or beretta if you want a easy to field strip .22 pistol

_____________________________________________________________

why not get a GLOCK can field strip them in 2 seconds flat can you do that
im just kidding guys i admit i have troubles with my ruger P97DC fucka got stuck a few time just wail the bajesus out of it and read the manual again
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 8:12:01 PM EDT

Originally Posted By chapperjoe:
HAHAHA VICTORY IS MINE - it should say this in the manual. All I had to do was put a long screw driver in teh magwell, and use a mallet to bang the demons out of the pistol. MSH came right out. I went at it like I had Bin Ladens testicals in there. Really wailed on em. Also threw it at my wall four times. Guess that loosened it up.



holyshit man

Link Posted: 3/22/2006 10:57:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/22/2006 11:00:54 PM EDT by STG77]

Originally Posted By juslearnin:

Originally Posted By STG77:
BTW, disassembly/reassembly is a lot easier if you remove the mag disconnector. It's useless anyway.



Can you clarify this for me? I would like to get a 22/45 but was going to look for a Mark II because I won't own a gun which won't fire without the magazine in. Are you saying that you can remove a part from a Mark III and make it function like a Mark II in this respect? Thanks.




I posted some pictures of what needs to be done in this thread. It's just a matter of removing a couple of parts.

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=5&f=32&t=27362&page=1��]

Let me know if you need any more help with it.

Also, if you want, you can replace the MKIII hammer and hammer bushing with the parts from the MKII. Some people think this is a better way of doing it, but the MKIII hammer has worked fine for me.


ETA - if you're getting a 22/45 and not a standard MKIII, I would look for a MKII 22/45. Reason being, the MKIII standard models have a side magazine release instead of the heel one, which IMO makes them superior to the older ones. The 22/45 has always had a side mag release so there's no advantages at all to the MKIII 22/45.
Link Posted: 3/23/2006 2:31:23 AM EDT

Originally Posted By STG77:

Originally Posted By juslearnin:

Originally Posted By STG77:
BTW, disassembly/reassembly is a lot easier if you remove the mag disconnector. It's useless anyway.



Can you clarify this for me? I would like to get a 22/45 but was going to look for a Mark II because I won't own a gun which won't fire without the magazine in. Are you saying that you can remove a part from a Mark III and make it function like a Mark II in this respect? Thanks.




I posted some pictures of what needs to be done in this thread. It's just a matter of removing a couple of parts.

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=5&f=32&t=27362&page=1𽉸]

Let me know if you need any more help with it.

Also, if you want, you can replace the MKIII hammer and hammer bushing with the parts from the MKII. Some people think this is a better way of doing it, but the MKIII hammer has worked fine for me.


ETA - if you're getting a 22/45 and not a standard MKIII, I would look for a MKII 22/45. Reason being, the MKIII standard models have a side magazine release instead of the heel one, which IMO makes them superior to the older ones. The 22/45 has always had a side mag release so there's no advantages at all to the MKIII 22/45.



oh what are you TALKING about? The greatest feature of teh mark III: when a round is loaded, even the folks in teh International Space Station can see the loaded chamber indicator.

I don't mind any of the safety features seriously though. EXCEPT the mag safety. I've just read to many Ayoob warnings to mess with it. I have to agree with him, if, god forbid, you have an accident or even a justified shooting, a jury will not want to hear htat you disabled a safety mechanism.
Link Posted: 3/23/2006 8:32:18 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Nosmik:
I think I am going to put the MKIII buy on hold and look at the Buckmark.
Is the Browning lefty friendly?

Good luck CJ.



Yes, depending on grips. Controls are set for a right handed person though.
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