Posted: 10/30/2010 5:45:46 PM EDT
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Got the 82 figured out, thanks to y’all, so now I need to get this 75 nailed down. It is a 75 and not a 75B (at least I see no “B” on the slide anywhere).
I bought this thing used quite a few years ago. It’s been a good shooter except for a problem with the trigger. I bought it cheap but the following might be why. When shooting single action, the hammer will partially release about ½ way through the trigger pull but continued pressure on the trigger will keep it in position. If the trigger is released at this point the hammer will ease back into a ½ cocked position. If I continue to pull through the first release the hammer will fall as normal. It’s almost like a 2-stage rifle trigger except that releasing the trigger after the first stage will also lower the hammer to ½ cock position. 
It’s almost like the trigger acting as a decocking mechanism although I know this isn’t correct for the weapon. Interestingly enough, if shooting double action the hammer will not fall unless I pull the trigger rather briskly. 
I know (hope?) that this is not normal and is the reason that I don’t shoot it much at all. That quirk is quite distracting when trying to shoot accurately. If I pull the trigger through quickly while shooting single action I don’t notice this but that’s not the best way to obtain good groups. Any ideas? Hopefully I’ve described the problem well enough that you get an idea what’s going on. I’m stumped. 
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Is that a cricket I hear?
Apparently others are stumped as well. Don't feel bad, I posted about this problem on the CZ forum a few years ago and received the same response. No worries. That's why it sits in the back of the safe and the Browning HP gets to play. |
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Unfortunately I don't have an answer for you, other than to tear it apart and try to identify the problem.
But, it's interesting to me that you're experiencing this problem. Back home there is a gun shop that has a 75 pre-B for sale, and from your description it has the same or very, very similar problem. The shop is owned and run primarily by one guy, but his son has started working there as well. Earlier this year a friend and I stopped in one night and only the son was there. We spotted the pre-B. It was an item of interest as my friend had been wanting one. So we're looking at it, and discover the trigger problem, which was almost exactly like what you're describing. I can't remember all the exact details now, but I do remember if you pulled the trigger SA fast, it wasn't usually an issue. But if you pulled it slowly like you would for an accurate, slow deliberate shot, the trigger acted like a decocker, lowering the hammer to the half-cock position. We brought the issue up to the son. He's a nice guy, but either he had no clue what he was talking about or didn't want to admit it was a problem. He said he thought maybe it was a feature of the gun. 
Last time we were there it was still there and up for sale. For a while I planned on waiting until sometime when the guy was working without the son, tell him about it, point out the issue, and then offer him a much lower price to take it off his hands. I figure whatever parts that need replaced can't be all that expensive. |
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Apparently others are stumped as well. Don't feel bad, I posted about this problem on the CZ forum a few years ago and received the same response. No worries. That's why it sits in the back of the safe and the Browning HP gets to play. It's very hard to diagnose such problems over the internet, especially without any photographs of the internals. What you describe doesn't sound like a common condition, which rules out the usual intuition- and experience-based responses. |
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Apparently others are stumped as well. Don't feel bad, I posted about this problem on the CZ forum a few years ago and received the same response. No worries. That's why it sits in the back of the safe and the Browning HP gets to play. It's very hard to diagnose such problems over the internet, especially without any photographs of the internals. What you describe doesn't sound like a common condition, which rules out the usual intuition- and experience-based responses. I think it's interesting though that I've ran into the same problem with another pre-B. I wonder if this is a common issue. A quick search didn't turn up anything though. |
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Apparently others are stumped as well. Don't feel bad, I posted about this problem on the CZ forum a few years ago and received the same response. No worries. That's why it sits in the back of the safe and the Browning HP gets to play. It's very hard to diagnose such problems over the internet, especially without any photographs of the internals. What you describe doesn't sound like a common condition, which rules out the usual intuition- and experience-based responses. I think it's interesting though that I've ran into the same problem with another pre-B. I wonder if this is a common issue. A quick search didn't turn up anything though. No such problems with my short-rail, and I haven't seen mention of such issues in the classic forum. |
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Apparently others are stumped as well. Don't feel bad, I posted about this problem on the CZ forum a few years ago and received the same response. No worries. That's why it sits in the back of the safe and the Browning HP gets to play. It's very hard to diagnose such problems over the internet, especially without any photographs of the internals. What you describe doesn't sound like a common condition, which rules out the usual intuition- and experience-based responses. I think it's interesting though that I've ran into the same problem with another pre-B. I wonder if this is a common issue. A quick search didn't turn up anything though. No such problems with my short-rail, and I haven't seen mention of such issues in the classic forum. Yeah. I figure if it was a common issue, we'd have heard about it before. If I get back up there another look at it, I'll give it the best look I can get (without buying it) and see if the issue is visible. But I know last time I think we did have the slide off and couldn't see the source of the problem. I'm sure he's not going to let me pull it apart farther than that though. |
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But I know last time I think we did have the slide off and couldn't see the source of the problem.
I've had it apart to that point and can't see the problem either. Guess I'll have to dig further and get the guts out of the thing to see what's up. The problem lies deep within the linkage somewhere . . . I think. Really don't want to send it to a smith at this time as I can live without it anyway. |
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It’s currently sitting in pieces. Had today off anyway so decided I’d see if I could figure out what is going on with this thing.
As near as I can tell, when the sear releases the hammer the disconnector falls to the stops on the top rear of the trigger bow. This would be the reason why the trigger is holding the hammer from falling but I still don’t have it figured out why pulling the trigger further releases the hammer . . . or why it’s even having this problem at all. It might be a timing issue but I can’t see anything worn enough to have caused this. Everything looks good. Nothing looks worn or bunged up at all so I’m stumped just as much as before. Obviously there’s something going on that I’m overlooking. Hate to admit it but I’m running out of patience with this thing and getting pretty damned close to tossing it into the pond behind the house.  Anyone know of a good smith that I could send it to?
If this was a 1911 or an AR I’d had it easily fixed by now. This POS? Not so much. |
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WEll, a basket case isn't worth a whole lot to me, but if you want to dump it IM me. Well . . . nice try, I guess. I wouldn’t say it’s exactly a basket case as she still shoots and is accurate. Not the type to simply unload this thing on the cheap just because she’d acting up. Also am the type that if I decide that she’s complete junk then the bottom of the pond is where she’ll be. Rather do that than sell it. Call it a “revenge thing” if you will. |