Springfield Prodigy (Page 7 of 9)
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: 4.25 I tried the springs my buddy had with it, not sure the weights. I tried the factory 12# recoil spring and 23# hammer spring. I'm now using a 13# recoil spring and 19# hammer spring and I think it's sprung perfectly now. DO NOT use the Atlas tool-less guide rod. Myself and others online have had issues with the guide rod locking up the slide under recoil. The problem does not exist with the Dawson tool-less guide rod. that might be why the atlas is not in stock anywhere. i briefly read about the one piece guide rods and know theirs the atlas, egw and dawson. i'll go with the dawson as i like the company as a whole. |
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Originally Posted By Corey44: general question, what does the main spring (the one in the msh i am assuming) have to do with the recoil spring? why are people changing both of those as a pair? Managing slide speed. Lighter hammer spring has less resistance, so it can allow you to go a little heavier on the recoil spring, which in turns forces the slide into battery a little bit better while it slows the slide down to make up for the lighter hammer spring. Some people like to use the recoil spring to also tune the feel and how the sight picture returns during strings of fire. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Managing slide speed. Lighter hammer spring has less resistance, so it can allow you to go a little heavier on the recoil spring, which in turns forces the slide into battery a little bit better while it slows the slide down to make up for the lighter hammer spring. Some people like to use the recoil spring to also tune the feel and how the sight picture returns during strings of fire. so if im looking for a faster recoil impulse, what springs weights should i try? i am primarily going to shoot 115gr because i literally have a mountain of it 
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Originally Posted By Corey44: so if im looking for a faster recoil impulse, what springs weights should i try? i am primarily going to shoot 115gr because i literally have a mountain of it Originally Posted By Corey44: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Managing slide speed. Lighter hammer spring has less resistance, so it can allow you to go a little heavier on the recoil spring, which in turns forces the slide into battery a little bit better while it slows the slide down to make up for the lighter hammer spring. Some people like to use the recoil spring to also tune the feel and how the sight picture returns during strings of fire. so if im looking for a faster recoil impulse, what springs weights should i try? i am primarily going to shoot 115gr because i literally have a mountain of it Lighter recoil spring and hammer spring will increase slide speed. That might be what you're looking for. Keep in mind it might outrun the magazine if you go too fast or have issues chambering rounds. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Lighter recoil spring and hammer spring will increase slide speed. That might be what you're looking for. Keep in mind it might outrun the magazine if you go too fast or have issues chambering rounds. ok. if i keep this thing, i will look into that, thank you. |
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Originally Posted By Corey44: ok. if i keep this thing, i will look into that, thank you. Originally Posted By Corey44: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Lighter recoil spring and hammer spring will increase slide speed. That might be what you're looking for. Keep in mind it might outrun the magazine if you go too fast or have issues chambering rounds. ok. if i keep this thing, i will look into that, thank you. You're welcome. 
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Got around to fitting an EGW safety. Last night I was finger banging it and the left side safety completely walked out and my hand just barely stopped the detent and spring, so I decided I need to replace it sooner than later. I've never had that much of an issue with a 1911 ambi. 
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If you are having light primer strikes get an extended firing pin and nothing more. I was getting light strikes with hard primers like Ginex and Remington that I use in my reloads. $12, problem solved. The lawyer light firing pin just doesn't tap dat ass quite hard enough with some primers. I didn't have issues with factory WWB that I bought as a test, just the harder primers and reloads. Zero failures out of 200rds today. |
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Originally Posted By RattleCanAR: If you are having light primer strikes get an extended firing pin and nothing more. I was getting light strikes with hard primers like Ginex and Remington that I use in my reloads. $12, problem solved. The lawyer light firing pin just doesn't tap dat ass quite hard enough with some primers. I didn't have issues with factory WWB that I bought as a test, just the harder primers and reloads. Zero failures out of 200rds today. Yep. I did the same thing with my Prodigy. It's been perfect ever since. |
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Another 200 down the tube. No failures to fire after firing pin swap, but did have 2 slide locks with a round left in the mag. Looks like there's a small amount of drag on the slide stop nub. No more safety lever issues after swapping in the EGW. Had one failure to feed but this was right after I dropped it in a pile of sand and gravel.  Optic plate came loose again, even after orange Loctite.  Might try staking the screw in.  Light is none too happy about the muzzle blast though. 
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Another 200 down the tube. No failures to fire after firing pin swap, but did have 2 slide locks with a round left in the mag. Looks like there's a small amount of drag on the slide stop nub. No more safety lever issues after swapping in the EGW. Had one failure to feed but this was right after I dropped it in a pile of sand and gravel. Optic plate came loose again, even after orange Loctite. Might try staking the screw in. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/20250427_161635-3527467.jpg Light is none too happy about the muzzle blast though. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/20250427_161657-3527466.jpg Attached File |
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Another 200 down the tube. No failures to fire after firing pin swap, but did have 2 slide locks with a round left in the mag. Looks like there's a small amount of drag on the slide stop nub. No more safety lever issues after swapping in the EGW. Had one failure to feed but this was right after I dropped it in a pile of sand and gravel. Optic plate came loose again, even after orange Loctite. Might try staking the screw in. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/20250427_161635-3527467.jpg Light is none too happy about the muzzle blast though. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/20250427_161657-3527466.jpg I put a bit of goon tape on my light. Bed the plate and be done with it. It’s no different than having a slide milled for direct mounting the optic. I went with a RMR footprint so I am committed to that. I’m sticking with the factory guide rod. I have an Allen on my cleaning bench and in my range bag. The stock one works fine. I may change the safety in the future but the stock one works. It just has that bit of over travel like all of them. |
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Originally Posted By RattleCanAR: I put a bit of goon tape on my light. Bed the plate and be done with it. It’s no different than having a slide milled for direct mounting the optic. I went with a RMR footprint so I am committed to that. I’m sticking with the factory guide rod. I have an Allen on my cleaning bench and in my range bag. The stock one works fine. I may change the safety in the future but the stock one works. It just has that bit of over travel like all of them. Originally Posted By RattleCanAR: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Another 200 down the tube. No failures to fire after firing pin swap, but did have 2 slide locks with a round left in the mag. Looks like there's a small amount of drag on the slide stop nub. No more safety lever issues after swapping in the EGW. Had one failure to feed but this was right after I dropped it in a pile of sand and gravel. Optic plate came loose again, even after orange Loctite. Might try staking the screw in. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/20250427_161635-3527467.jpg Light is none too happy about the muzzle blast though. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/20250427_161657-3527466.jpg I put a bit of goon tape on my light. Bed the plate and be done with it. It’s no different than having a slide milled for direct mounting the optic. I went with a RMR footprint so I am committed to that. I’m sticking with the factory guide rod. I have an Allen on my cleaning bench and in my range bag. The stock one works fine. I may change the safety in the future but the stock one works. It just has that bit of over travel like all of them. Did you do green Loctite for your bedding? I'm considering it for mine. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Did you do green Loctite for your bedding? I'm considering it for mine. Nope I’m committed JB Weld. It will come off if I really want it to. Some long optic screws without an optic and it will pop off. I put some wax on the slide before bedding it. The key is ensuring it doesn’t shift front to rear. Same with the plate on my aftermarket LFA 320 slide and my 509T. In that case 320 slides are cheap. If I want a change I will just get a new slide. As it is I may sell it. I don’t shoot it much anymore. |
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Originally Posted By RattleCanAR: Nope I’m committed JB Weld. It will come off if I really want it to. Some long optic screws without an optic and it will pop off. I put some wax on the slide before bedding it. Same with the plate on my aftermarket LFA 320 slide and my 509T. In that case 320 slides are cheap. If I want a change I will just get a new slide. As it is I may sell it. I don’t shoot it much anymore. Originally Posted By RattleCanAR: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Did you do green Loctite for your bedding? I'm considering it for mine. Nope I’m committed JB Weld. It will come off if I really want it to. Some long optic screws without an optic and it will pop off. I put some wax on the slide before bedding it. Same with the plate on my aftermarket LFA 320 slide and my 509T. In that case 320 slides are cheap. If I want a change I will just get a new slide. As it is I may sell it. I don’t shoot it much anymore. Monika.  I'm going to green Loctite mine, see how it does. I'm hoping blue Loctite and using proper torque will work for me, although I have my doubts. I still have my 320. No issues with loosening bolts and I used blue Loctite and recommended torque. Attached File Don't trust it after all the shenanigans, but that's a discussion for another thread. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Monika. Don't trust it after all the shenanigans, but that's a discussion for another thread. Same I actually trust it less now that Sig has gone actively rebutting issues. Back to the Prodigy. I know all 70 series 1911 designs aren’t “drop safe”. I also know they have to land muzzle down to go off. I’m fine with that. |
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Originally Posted By RattleCanAR: I put a bit of goon tape on my light. Bed the plate and be done with it. It’s no different than having a slide milled for direct mounting the optic. I went with a RMR footprint so I am committed to that. I’m sticking with the factory guide rod. I have an Allen on my cleaning bench and in my range bag. The stock one works fine. I may change the safety in the future but the stock one works. It just has that bit of over travel like all of them. Originally Posted By RattleCanAR: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Another 200 down the tube. No failures to fire after firing pin swap, but did have 2 slide locks with a round left in the mag. Looks like there's a small amount of drag on the slide stop nub. No more safety lever issues after swapping in the EGW. Had one failure to feed but this was right after I dropped it in a pile of sand and gravel. Optic plate came loose again, even after orange Loctite. Might try staking the screw in. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/20250427_161635-3527467.jpg Light is none too happy about the muzzle blast though. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/20250427_161657-3527466.jpg I put a bit of goon tape on my light. Bed the plate and be done with it. It’s no different than having a slide milled for direct mounting the optic. I went with a RMR footprint so I am committed to that. I’m sticking with the factory guide rod. I have an Allen on my cleaning bench and in my range bag. The stock one works fine. I may change the safety in the future but the stock one works. It just has that bit of over travel like all of them. I'm not worried about the finish, it's a tool and is treated as such. I can always rattlecan it.  I like the Dawson guide rod, so I don't have to fight the recoil spring while disassembling/assembling. Arthritis is a bitch. I was tired of the right safety walking out and last week the left side popped out launching the detent spring. I was done dealing with it. |
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: I'm not worried about the finish, it's a tool and is treated as such. I can always rattlecan it. I like the Dawson guide rod, so I don't have to fight the recoil spring while disassembling/assembling. Arthritis is a bitch. I was tired of the right safety walking out and last week the left side popped out launching the detent spring. I was done dealing with it. The safety was an easy fix. Just squish the joint a little bit and the two halves stay together. I like the idea of a shielded safety so your thumb doesn't slow the slide. |
Leave me alone. I’m a libertarian. ARFCOM GD hates everything so don't freak out if you catch grief for what you like. Unless you like AKs, then GFY.
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Originally Posted By RattleCanAR: The safety was an easy fix. Just squish the joint a little bit and the two halves stay together. I like the idea of a shielded safety so your thumb doesn't slow the slide. Originally Posted By RattleCanAR: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: I'm not worried about the finish, it's a tool and is treated as such. I can always rattlecan it. I like the Dawson guide rod, so I don't have to fight the recoil spring while disassembling/assembling. Arthritis is a bitch. I was tired of the right safety walking out and last week the left side popped out launching the detent spring. I was done dealing with it. The safety was an easy fix. Just squish the joint a little bit and the two halves stay together. I like the idea of a shielded safety so your thumb doesn't slow the slide. I did that multiple times, it will eventually work itself apart. Had it squished so much, it would require light tapping to get it seated. Still walked apart. The fin on mine was slightly wedge-shaped so I filed it flat and it would still walk apart. |
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: I'm not worried about the finish, it's a tool and is treated as such. I can always rattlecan it. I like the Dawson guide rod, so I don't have to fight the recoil spring while disassembling/assembling. Arthritis is a bitch. I was tired of the right safety walking out and last week the left side popped out launching the detent spring. I was done dealing with it. Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By RattleCanAR: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Another 200 down the tube. No failures to fire after firing pin swap, but did have 2 slide locks with a round left in the mag. Looks like there's a small amount of drag on the slide stop nub. No more safety lever issues after swapping in the EGW. Had one failure to feed but this was right after I dropped it in a pile of sand and gravel. Optic plate came loose again, even after orange Loctite. Might try staking the screw in. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/20250427_161635-3527467.jpg Light is none too happy about the muzzle blast though. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/20250427_161657-3527466.jpg I put a bit of goon tape on my light. Bed the plate and be done with it. It’s no different than having a slide milled for direct mounting the optic. I went with a RMR footprint so I am committed to that. I’m sticking with the factory guide rod. I have an Allen on my cleaning bench and in my range bag. The stock one works fine. I may change the safety in the future but the stock one works. It just has that bit of over travel like all of them. I'm not worried about the finish, it's a tool and is treated as such. I can always rattlecan it. I like the Dawson guide rod, so I don't have to fight the recoil spring while disassembling/assembling. Arthritis is a bitch. I was tired of the right safety walking out and last week the left side popped out launching the detent spring. I was done dealing with it. I love the Dawson guide rod, honestly. It's great. |
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The EGW guide rod works as well, but not truly tool less as you'll need a paperclip. I decided it was worth it since eventually I'll launch the guide rod into a LCD or window. In terms of the optics plate, I tried blue several times, and it always loosened over time. Running it red on both the plate and the optic and thus far it's held pretty well. Time will tell. |
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Fixed all the issues with my Prodigy from the last trip. I torqued and blue-loctited all of the sight screws to factory specifications and let cure 24 hours. After 200 rounds, pretty rapidly, the RMR plate came slightly loose. The RMR itself stayed tight. I applied green loctite to the plate screws, torqued to 15 in/lbs, instead of the factory 10 in/lb, and installed the RMR like I did last time. I'll be taking it out again tomorrow and putting another 300 through it. In other news, it's been 100% reliable in function since I swapped to the Dawson tool-less guide rod. It's a nice shooter, too. Not as accurate as my bushing 1911s, but that could also be me getting used to it. I'm at 1600 rounds so far with the last 400 being functionally perfect and the only issues being the red dot and rear sights coming loose at the range. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Fixed all the issues with my Prodigy from the last trip. I torqued and blue-loctited all of the sight screws to factory specifications and let cure 24 hours. After 200 rounds, pretty rapidly, the RMR plate came slightly loose. The RMR itself stayed tight. I applied green loctite to the plate screws, torqued to 15 in/lbs, instead of the factory 10 in/lb, and installed the RMR like I did last time. I'll be taking it out again tomorrow and putting another 300 through it. In other news, it's been 100% reliable in function since I swapped to the Dawson tool-less guide rod. It's a nice shooter, too. Not as accurate as my bushing 1911s, but that could also be me getting used to it. I'm at 1600 rounds so far with the last 400 being functionally perfect and the only issues being the red dot and rear sights coming loose at the range. FYI...the plate screws are 25 in-lbs. 
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: FYI...the plate screws are 25 in-lbs. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/Screenshot_2025-05-02_044638-3530985.jpg Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Fixed all the issues with my Prodigy from the last trip. I torqued and blue-loctited all of the sight screws to factory specifications and let cure 24 hours. After 200 rounds, pretty rapidly, the RMR plate came slightly loose. The RMR itself stayed tight. I applied green loctite to the plate screws, torqued to 15 in/lbs, instead of the factory 10 in/lb, and installed the RMR like I did last time. I'll be taking it out again tomorrow and putting another 300 through it. In other news, it's been 100% reliable in function since I swapped to the Dawson tool-less guide rod. It's a nice shooter, too. Not as accurate as my bushing 1911s, but that could also be me getting used to it. I'm at 1600 rounds so far with the last 400 being functionally perfect and the only issues being the red dot and rear sights coming loose at the range. FYI...the plate screws are 25 in-lbs. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/Screenshot_2025-05-02_044638-3530985.jpg That could be a good reason lol.
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: That could be a good reason lol. Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Fixed all the issues with my Prodigy from the last trip. I torqued and blue-loctited all of the sight screws to factory specifications and let cure 24 hours. After 200 rounds, pretty rapidly, the RMR plate came slightly loose. The RMR itself stayed tight. I applied green loctite to the plate screws, torqued to 15 in/lbs, instead of the factory 10 in/lb, and installed the RMR like I did last time. I'll be taking it out again tomorrow and putting another 300 through it. In other news, it's been 100% reliable in function since I swapped to the Dawson tool-less guide rod. It's a nice shooter, too. Not as accurate as my bushing 1911s, but that could also be me getting used to it. I'm at 1600 rounds so far with the last 400 being functionally perfect and the only issues being the red dot and rear sights coming loose at the range. FYI...the plate screws are 25 in-lbs. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/Screenshot_2025-05-02_044638-3530985.jpg That could be a good reason lol. Mine still comes loose at 25, so it may not make a difference. I staked the screws after the last time. We'll see if it holds up. |
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Mine still comes loose at 25, so it may not make a difference. I staked the screws after the last time. We'll see if it holds up. Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Fixed all the issues with my Prodigy from the last trip. I torqued and blue-loctited all of the sight screws to factory specifications and let cure 24 hours. After 200 rounds, pretty rapidly, the RMR plate came slightly loose. The RMR itself stayed tight. I applied green loctite to the plate screws, torqued to 15 in/lbs, instead of the factory 10 in/lb, and installed the RMR like I did last time. I'll be taking it out again tomorrow and putting another 300 through it. In other news, it's been 100% reliable in function since I swapped to the Dawson tool-less guide rod. It's a nice shooter, too. Not as accurate as my bushing 1911s, but that could also be me getting used to it. I'm at 1600 rounds so far with the last 400 being functionally perfect and the only issues being the red dot and rear sights coming loose at the range. FYI...the plate screws are 25 in-lbs. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/Screenshot_2025-05-02_044638-3530985.jpg That could be a good reason lol. Mine still comes loose at 25, so it may not make a difference. I staked the screws after the last time. We'll see if it holds up. Mine wasn't very loose after last trip, so I'm hoping it'll be good after tomorrow. When I get home from work, I'm going to torque it to 25 in/lbs. I thought about staking mine, too. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Mine wasn't very loose after last trip, so I'm hoping it'll be good after tomorrow. When I get home from work, I'm going to torque it to 25 in/lbs. I thought about staking mine, too. Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Fixed all the issues with my Prodigy from the last trip. I torqued and blue-loctited all of the sight screws to factory specifications and let cure 24 hours. After 200 rounds, pretty rapidly, the RMR plate came slightly loose. The RMR itself stayed tight. I applied green loctite to the plate screws, torqued to 15 in/lbs, instead of the factory 10 in/lb, and installed the RMR like I did last time. I'll be taking it out again tomorrow and putting another 300 through it. In other news, it's been 100% reliable in function since I swapped to the Dawson tool-less guide rod. It's a nice shooter, too. Not as accurate as my bushing 1911s, but that could also be me getting used to it. I'm at 1600 rounds so far with the last 400 being functionally perfect and the only issues being the red dot and rear sights coming loose at the range. FYI...the plate screws are 25 in-lbs. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/Screenshot_2025-05-02_044638-3530985.jpg That could be a good reason lol. Mine still comes loose at 25, so it may not make a difference. I staked the screws after the last time. We'll see if it holds up. Mine wasn't very loose after last trip, so I'm hoping it'll be good after tomorrow. When I get home from work, I'm going to torque it to 25 in/lbs. I thought about staking mine, too. I caught mine juuuust barely loose the last time. Had tools with me so I tightened it up at the range then redid the loctite and stake when I got home. |
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Originally Posted By DOE: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Mine still comes loose at 25, so it may not make a difference. I staked the screws after the last time. We'll see if it holds up. https://i.imgur.com/HXsYrTe.jpg?1 Mine snapped at that level.  Oof. |
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Originally Posted By DOE: Yeah. Back to the mother ship it went. Red loctite as I'm dedicated to RMR. Hasn't shot loose from the last range session, but if it does... rocksett and/or staking. Go all in like I did. Just bed it with JB Weld.
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Originally Posted By RattleCanAR: Same I actually trust it less now that Sig has gone actively rebutting issues. Back to the Prodigy. I know all 70 series 1911 designs aren’t “drop safe”. I also know they have to land muzzle down to go off. I’m fine with that. I actually had a M18 that I wanted to build up into a carry comp, but, got too many bad vibes so I sold it to a risk taker friend and went down the prodigy route. So glad that I did. He still has the M18 and is running it comp'd now and honestly, the 2011 is just a worlds better pure shooter and has better reliability. In regard to the drop safe issue, I am ok with it as well, same thing applies to the M16 series and its never been an issue. |
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Got around to fitting an EGW safety. Last night I was finger banging it and the left side safety completely walked out and my hand just barely stopped the detent and spring, so I decided I need to replace it sooner than later. I've never had that much of an issue with a 1911 ambi. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/20250420_141130-3521700.jpg How much work was the EGW safety? I’m looking at doing the same with mine. My right side safety is a little wobbly and I’m just going to bite the bullet and get the EGW ambi. |
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Originally Posted By Virginia_Shooter: How much work was the EGW safety? I’m looking at doing the same with mine. My right side safety is a little wobbly and I’m just going to bite the bullet and get the EGW ambi. Originally Posted By Virginia_Shooter: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Got around to fitting an EGW safety. Last night I was finger banging it and the left side safety completely walked out and my hand just barely stopped the detent and spring, so I decided I need to replace it sooner than later. I've never had that much of an issue with a 1911 ambi. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/204916/20250420_141130-3521700.jpg How much work was the EGW safety? I’m looking at doing the same with mine. My right side safety is a little wobbly and I’m just going to bite the bullet and get the EGW ambi. Not much at all. Go slow with material removal, it goes from not fully engaging to engaged in one or two file strokes. I probably spent 10-15 minutes on it. |
God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Not much at all. Go slow with material removal, it goes from not fully engaging to engaged in one or two file strokes. I probably spent 10-15 minutes on it. That’s good to know. I’ve never fitted one before, so this would be my first. |
Originally Posted By Aimless:...If you put some rare Russian machinegun in a giant mouse trap and painted "ATF" on the side you'd still find Larry caught in it in the morning
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Originally Posted By Virginia_Shooter: That’s good to know. I’ve never fitted one before, so this would be my first. Originally Posted By Virginia_Shooter: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Not much at all. Go slow with material removal, it goes from not fully engaging to engaged in one or two file strokes. I probably spent 10-15 minutes on it. That’s good to know. I’ve never fitted one before, so this would be my first. It was my first as well. I just followed what i found on a 1911 forum. |
God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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My magwell and mainspring housing from EGW got delivered today, so I’ll be working on those when I get home. I took my Prodigy to the range last weekend and ran the first 250 rounds though it. Had two feeding issues within the first four mags, but it otherwise ran great. Really looking forward to shooting it more and getting it set up for local steel matches. Upgrades currently planned: EGW magwell (waiting for me at home to install) EGW steel mainspring housing (waiting at home) EGW ambi safety Optic (either an SRO or 507 comp) Possibly a Dawson guide rod to replace the multi-part stock one. That’s pretty much it. I plan to leave the rest pretty much as-is until I break something or have issues. Attached File |
Originally Posted By Aimless:...If you put some rare Russian machinegun in a giant mouse trap and painted "ATF" on the side you'd still find Larry caught in it in the morning
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Quick question, which optic plate did yours come with? A13B (Hex Dragonfly foot print)? I have the same pistol on the way and wanting to jump on an RDS order. Thanks. My buddy used to work for Springfield Armory and he said ditch the factory Ti firing pin, get a Dawson extended FP, and improve the trigger with an EGW Ignition Kit. That would be all the new Prodigy Comp needs. Originally Posted By Virginia_Shooter: My magwell and mainspring housing from EGW got delivered today, so I’ll be working on those when I get home. I took my Prodigy to the range last weekend and ran the first 250 rounds though it. Had two feeding issues within the first four mags, but it otherwise ran great. Really looking forward to shooting it more and getting it set up for local steel matches. Upgrades currently planned: EGW magwell (waiting for me at home to install) EGW steel mainspring housing (waiting at home) EGW ambi safety Optic (either an SRO or 507 comp) Possibly a Dawson guide rod to replace the multi-part stock one. That’s pretty much it. I plan to leave the rest pretty much as-is until I break something or have issues. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/438600/IMG_7831_jpeg-3535912.JPG |
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Originally Posted By bravo5two: Quick question, which optic plate did yours come with? A13B (Hex Dragonfly foot print)? I have the same pistol on the way and wanting to jump on an RDS order. Thanks. My buddy used to work for Springfield Armory and he said ditch the factory Ti firing pin, get a Dawson extended FP, and improve the trigger with an EGW Ignition Kit. That would be all the new Prodigy Comp needs. Originally Posted By bravo5two: Quick question, which optic plate did yours come with? A13B (Hex Dragonfly foot print)? I have the same pistol on the way and wanting to jump on an RDS order. Thanks. My buddy used to work for Springfield Armory and he said ditch the factory Ti firing pin, get a Dawson extended FP, and improve the trigger with an EGW Ignition Kit. That would be all the new Prodigy Comp needs. Originally Posted By Virginia_Shooter: My magwell and mainspring housing from EGW got delivered today, so I’ll be working on those when I get home. I took my Prodigy to the range last weekend and ran the first 250 rounds though it. Had two feeding issues within the first four mags, but it otherwise ran great. Really looking forward to shooting it more and getting it set up for local steel matches. Upgrades currently planned: EGW magwell (waiting for me at home to install) EGW steel mainspring housing (waiting at home) EGW ambi safety Optic (either an SRO or 507 comp) Possibly a Dawson guide rod to replace the multi-part stock one. That’s pretty much it. I plan to leave the rest pretty much as-is until I break something or have issues. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/438600/IMG_7831_jpeg-3535912.JPG I had light strikes with the factory Ti firing pin. Switched to a steel extended from Dawson and the problems went away. |
Why is the sky blue?
What makes the green grass grow?
What makes the green grass grow?
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Originally Posted By bravo5two: Quick question, which optic plate did yours come with? A13B (Hex Dragonfly foot print)? I have the same pistol on the way and wanting to jump on an RDS order. Thanks. My buddy used to work for Springfield Armory and he said ditch the factory Ti firing pin, get a Dawson extended FP, and improve the trigger with an EGW Ignition Kit. That would be all the new Prodigy Comp needs. Pretty sure mine came with the Dragonfly plate. I’m planning to pick up the RMR plate (A14B iirc). Are any aftermarket plates worth anything or should I stick with the AOS plates? |
Originally Posted By Aimless:...If you put some rare Russian machinegun in a giant mouse trap and painted "ATF" on the side you'd still find Larry caught in it in the morning
| IMO, probably best to stick with the AOS plates just because they're made specifically for the Prodigy. I am sure most of that cost came from having an integrated rear sight. I will most likely put a Burris FF3 on it so the A13B (Dragonfly foot print) should work. Thanks for your reply. |
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Got the EGW steel mainspring housing and magwell installed tonight after work. The color match on the parts is outstanding. Happy to be rid of the black plastic stock housing. Attached File Attached File |
Originally Posted By Aimless:...If you put some rare Russian machinegun in a giant mouse trap and painted "ATF" on the side you'd still find Larry caught in it in the morning
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Is the compact grip module available for purchase anywhere? This is all I can find |
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Originally Posted By Niquorice: Is the compact grip module available for purchase anywhere? This is all I can find Gotta call the mothership. I called about a month ago and they didn't have any and told me to just keep calling. |
God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By Corey44: this disconnector hanging up is starting to get on my nerves. does the egw kit solve this annoyance? to be fair, while shooting, i never notice it, it's just annoying. Marvel cut and/or bevel and polish. |
Why is the sky blue?
What makes the green grass grow?
What makes the green grass grow?