Posted: 2/28/2009 10:06:24 AM EDT
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I have a S&W 686 (had it for 4 years and have a few hundred rounds through it) Love it and here is the dumb question.
I know there is no safety, like in a semi auto. I was told there is a device that keeps it from firing unless the trigger is pulled. ie. dropped or trigger pulled back while in holster. Is this true? i have not tested this but plan to next week at cabin. If so, do all revolvers have this feature ? Also, if so, how many years has this been a feature? I know I should know this, so be gentle if you are going to flame me for not knowing. |
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If it's a newer revolver, there'll be a hammer-block safety. As you look at the spot where the hammer hits the firing pin, as you pull back the hammer you should see a small metal plate start to slide downward as the hammer comes back. That's the safety. It prevents the hammer from being pushed into the firing pin unless the hammer is fully retracted first. They've probably been really prevalent about the last 15-20 years or so.
ETA: much better explanation here. Scroll down to "internal safeties." |
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It's called a transfer bar. When the hammer goes back the transfer bar goes up. When you pull the trigger the hammer falls on the transfer bar and then that hits the firing pin. That way you have to pull the trigger for it to fire. You can tell if you have a transfer bar by pulling the hammer back. Does the hammer have a firing pin (pointy thing on the hammer) on it? If so then you don't have a transfer bar. Most manufacturers will put a new hammer and transfer bar on older pistols for free.
Hope that helps. |
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Quoted:
On older revolvers if the gun were struck on the back of the hammer it could push the hammer with enough force to fire the weapon. This is why many if not all cowboys in the west only had 5 rounds in their 6 shooters. exactly my question and understand that. So, on newer (when) you don't have to be concerned about that? |
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Quoted:
It's called a transfer bar. When the hammer goes back the transfer bar goes up. When you pull the trigger the hammer falls on the transfer bar and then that hits the firing pin. That way you have to pull the trigger for it to fire. You can tell if you have a transfer bar by pulling the hammer back. Does the hammer have a firing pin (pointy thing on the hammer) on it? If so then you don't have a transfer bar. Most manufacturers will put a new hammer and transfer bar on older pistols for free. Hope that helps. Thanks, got in my hand (unloaded) and the hammer is flat. I think I understand, duh. Helps, large. This may seem simple, but I don't think a lot of (maybe non wheel gun people) understand. |
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Quoted:
If it's a newer revolver, there'll be a hammer-block safety. As you look at the spot where the hammer hits the firing pin, as you pull back the hammer you should see a small metal plate start to slide downward as the hammer comes back. That's the safety. It prevents the hammer from being pushed into the firing pin unless the hammer is fully retracted first. They've probably been really prevalent about the last 15-20 years or so. ETA: much better explanation here. Scroll down to "internal safeties." Thanks. How can you know? is it the presence or lack of the "striker" on the hammer? |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
If it's a newer revolver, there'll be a hammer-block safety. As you look at the spot where the hammer hits the firing pin, as you pull back the hammer you should see a small metal plate start to slide downward as the hammer comes back. That's the safety. It prevents the hammer from being pushed into the firing pin unless the hammer is fully retracted first. They've probably been really prevalent about the last 15-20 years or so. ETA: much better explanation here. Scroll down to "internal safeties." Thanks. How can you know? is it the presence or lack of the "striker" on the hammer? No, the 'striker' is just the firing pin. In older Smith & Wessons it was mounted on the hammer and on newer ones it is mounted in the frame. This was a recent changed in the last fifteen years or so. It has nothing to do with the hammer-block safety, which has been on S & W revolvers for about the last 100 years. After WWII, a hammer rebound was added, this is a spring that keeps the hammer pushed back from the cartridge primer. It was added after a .38 revolver was supposedly dropped and landed on the hammer, causing the gun to fire and killing a sailor, IIRC. It's hard to explain how the hammer block works, but try this. With an UNLOADED revolver, looking at the gun from the side, slowly squeeze the trigger and hold the trigger back against the trigger guard. You'll feel the hammer fall and you should be able to see the firing pin protruding from the recoil shield in the gap between the rear of the cylinder and the frame. Now, release the trigger. You'll see the fring pin retract. This is why , unless the trigger is held firmly to the rear of the triggerguard, the hammer cannot go all the way foreward to fire the cartridge. If your friend is worried about branches, etc, snagging the trigger while carrying the guns in the woods, he should get a holster that covers the triggerguard. |
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Quoted:
exactly my question and understand that. So, on newer (when) you don't have to be concerned about that? Correct. As long as the hammer doesn't have the firing pin ON the hammer, it will probably have a transfer bar safety. There's a couple of replica Old West guns made that had the old firing-pin-on-the-hammer style. Not sure if they're still made these days, but I doubt they were too popular with the cowboy shooters, IMO. |
