Posted: 3/4/2007 5:10:49 AM EDT
| I've been shopping around for a new handgun.At first I was only looking at 1911's.But now after viewing you folks picture thread has got the old revolver flame burning again.I've always thought revolvers looked better than automatics pistols and more reliable IMO(less moving parts).As far as new guns go I've been eyeballing the S&W 686 357 SS4''bbl. or the Ruger GP100 357 SS4''bbl.My questions are.Is the 686 as well made gun as it was many years ago despite the internal lock?What is a fair new price for this gun?Dealer said $569.00 before tax,$620.00 OTD.And one gentleman in the shop said the GP100's ejector rod in the cylinder was cheap,but other than that it was a good gun.Does anyone else have any info on this?Finally,what is a good price on the GP100 as described above?Judging by the 2 models I'm intrested in,are there any other models up for recommendations.Sorry so long guys.Just want to make a good choice.Thanks Tradrick |
A couple of comments: • Ruger vs. Smith seems to be a Ford/Chevy thing. Some folks just prefer one over the other. Personally, I'm a S&W guy. I really like the K and L frame Smiths (don't much care for the J's). The triggers are really nice and they can be slicked up even nicer. I've never owned a Ruger revolver but they do seem really solid. I kind of have a hankering for a SP101. • I would never buy a newer Smith with the lock. I'd go for a used/older revolver every time. It's almost true that the older, the better (in a K frame I'd look for a pinned/recessed version). Chances are you'll pay less for the better (older) revolver but even if they were the same price, I'd go for the non-lock version. BTW, here's my 686 with the Missouri Highway Patrol shield on the side:  |
| Thanks for the input.And thats a fine looking weapon you have there.I've read that the internal lock was no big deal.That you could even modify it if you wished to.Some of the older models were some of the best lookers IMO.If I rember right the model 27 & 66.I would deffinatly own one if I could find a good deal on one.Can you have these older S&W rebuilt by Smith?Also I've got a couple of other prospects.Taurus models 608,627 and 66.What is the quality of these guns compared to S&W and Ruger?I've heard that Taurus has been making good quality guns for some time now.I know their a good bit cheaper. |
I'll second the reply that you should try to locate an older pre-lock S&W. I recently traded my locked, 1yr old, 4"686 for a 1st gen 686. The reasons being: no MIM parts in the 1st gen (hammer,trigger,internals), hammer mounted firing pin, no internal lock (which for me was purely for aesthetics...lock screws up the lines), and the fitting (crane to frame) appeared to be much better on the older example. Not to mention that pre-lock S&W will only continue to increase in value. When I purchased the "locked" S&W new a year ago, I paid $529 before tax so the price you were quoted is "fair". As far as Rugers are concerned. IMO, the 686 is head and shoulders above the gp100. Admittedly, the only hands-on/range experience I've had with the gp100 is one my little brother purchased. The issues I had were: heavy DA trigger (not as smooth as a S&W action out of the box), impossible to remove the sideplate for cleaning (as if it was pressed into place), a "rattle" inside the revolver that turned out to be the transfer bar system--couldn't be remedied and was told by Rugler that this was "normal". Ruger's Vaquero, Blackhawk, Redhawk, etc. have a pretty good reputation, but their GP100 left a lot to be desired IMO. |
yes, in fact I intend to have mine rematted and basically have it brought up to NIB standards.
IMO quality in order as follows: 1) S&W 2) Ruger 3) Taurus. That's also the order of resale value as well. If you're just going to purchase one revolver, get the S&W, ideally get an older pre-lock version. |
Unless you buy a gun that obviously has been rode hard and put up wet you won't have to. These things last forever. Maybe you don't have a lot of experience buying used guns. That's generally all I buy. It's been my experience that if a gun looks OK, it is. There rarely are hidden problems. Let's face it, gun owners are some of the most fickle people around. Generally gun owners trade something in not to get rid of a problem but because their interests have changed. Buying used is the best way to maximize your dollars. |
| Thanks alot guys.Gives me something to think about.I have or had decent experience in buying used guns but I've been out of the loop for several years.And, I've never bought online before.Which seems to be the best place to find a prelock model if I go that route.I've noticed that the prices on the older models are pretty steep.But I guess if they don't make'im like they use to and now have locks their worth it.I've read that the Colt revolvers were worth alot.Since they basically have gotten out of the revolver buisness.My local shop has a Colt Python 357 4''bbl.blued for $875.00.Looks to be in real good shape.Growing up as a teenager that was my dream gun.Is that gun worth that much? |
|
Pythons are not worth that much at all... BUT the market demands that is their value since Colt will not make them (nor any other DA revolver) again. I don't own a Python myself, but I do own a Detective special and the Python's kid brother, the Diamondback. While I love having these as part of a modest revolver collection, they are not nearly as fun or as pleasurable to shoot as the beat up Smith 586 (that's a blued 686) I bought as my first revolver. That gun is just smooth to shoot and it doesn't disappoint. So even if those price tags leave you wondering about the dream gun you may not be able to afford, or able to afford the devaluation of shooting one, I can tell you that that the best feeling guns are still readily available for a much better price. If you buy a Ruger or a Smith, the good news is that you won't come out a loser (both have great qualities). I am a "Chevy" guy myself... much as I respect the durability of Rugers, I hate the feel of their rough (to me) DA trigger pulls. Smith is a damn strong workhorse and the smoothest out there |
|
tradrick: You didn't say what if you wanted a shooter or you're trying to get the biggest bang for your buck. If money is a concern, I would go with the GP100, it is a real realiable good gun. But if you have extra bucks to spend I would go witth the S&W 686. 20 years ago, my friends and I evaluated the GP100, Python, & 686/586. The Python and 686/586 tied for acurracy, 1" groups at 75'. The GP100, came in 2nd at ~1.5 groups. My friends went with the 686 because of cost, I went with the Python. I must say though the GP100 have probably the most comfortable factory grip, and is built like tank.
If future appreciation or value retention is a concern, get either a Colt or S&W. Remember Colt has not made a revolver for more than 2 years, and according to fellow ARFCOM member and Colt expert dfariswheel, they will not make any again. See dfariswheel's comments regarding Colt wheel guns in the ARFCOM revolver forum. I know for sure that I can sell easily sell my old S&W & Colt firearms for more than I originally paid. |
I agree with you on the fact that Ruger has a rougher/harder trigger pull. I own a S&W Model 19 4in Nickel and its trigger is sweet. I bought a Ruger GP100 4in S/S from a co-worker for a good price. I went to Wolff springs and bought a lighter hammer spring. I put that reduced power hammer spring in and the trigger on my GP100 is as sweet as my S&W. I found that this minor mod. makes the Ruger trigger just as good and it is built like a tank. While performing this work, I also found that the GP100 is the easiest revolver to work on. Smiths and Colts need to be worked on by a compitent gunsmith. |
The Rugers have the benefit of more modern technology. The actions in the Colts & Smiths day back to the late 1800s - early 1900s. |
|
While the pre-lock guns are cheaper, if you come across a good deal on a new or late model Smith with lock, don't pass it up. If the lock bothers you, any smith can take it apart and grind off the little stud on the inside of the flag which is what locks the hammer when the flag rises. Then the gun won't lock no matter which position the flag is in. |
| Thanks for everybodys input.It gives me much needed info while shopping.The primary use for this gun would be plinking and home protection.I already have another small revolver that I use for conceled carry.As far as price goes I was trying to stay under $600.00.But you know how that goes.Especially if you find something you can't live without. |
|
Death to bowling pins!http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t195/747mech/DSC00411.jpg S&W 586 6" |
| Hey guys,well I've been looking hard and fount one I could'nt pass up.Its a L framed 686 SS 4in.bbl with factory wood grips with the S&W logo.In fact its identical to Wildearp's pictured above.My local dealer just got it in from an estate auction he had won.Its in excellant condition,does'nt seem to have been shot much or holstered.SS is in very good shape and she locks up tite.The gentleman that had owned it had over a hundred guns so it probably sat most of the time.My dealer was asking $360.00 but I got him down to $325.00.He would'nt budge off of that.Oh yea,it also came with the origanal box,owners manual, firearm safety booklet and warranty papers.I think I made a pretty decent find.Is there any way to tell what year it was manufactured?Thanks for everyone's input on this site.Because I really dig this gun. |
|
Score! You're gonna love it, and the value on pre-locks is already going up. You can call S&W and give the the SN, they'll tell you when it left the factory and if it's ever been back. Check out smith-wessonforum.com/ |
You got an excellent deal. If IIRC, see my 3/4/2007 2:13:30 post above, my friend paid something like $300 for a NIB 686 back in 1992. So you scored good one. Remember, "seek and ye shall find." There are deal to be had out there. I know some gunners that have more guns than the can possibly shoot. |
|
That is a good deal. This thread got me curious about mine, so I gave S&W a call. It's a 686-5 (5th revision-frames are CNCd as of '97), 7 shot prduced in 12/99. The finish on this gun is better than some I have seen. The S&W logo Hougue grips make this piece for me, along with the trigger, balance and accuracy. Years ago I owned a 6" Colt Python with factory Nitex finish that was a very nice shooter, but this 686 seems just as nice to me, and I think the balance of the 4" gun is better. I paid $425. for it used @ a local shop about 5 years ago. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v720/phm14/IMG_3309.jpg |
|
i own a half a dozen hand guns les baer premier 2, 686 6 inch, ruger mk 2 govt, 629 classic, walther p99, glock 19. of all my guns if i had to keep one , just one it would be the 686, it is a joy to shoot. running 148 gr hbwc through the gun is like shooting a ball of cotton. virtually zero recoil and accurate off hand on 8 inch plates to 40 yards to the tune 5 out of 6 virtually every time. you wont ever regret buying this gun. if you want a big flash and bang put a full load 357 through the gun. i must have over 3000 rounds through my 686, it has never lost time, ever. trigger is smooth no aftermkt springs, single action is amazing. buy the 686 if you dont like it i will buy it from you. how is that for an offer. |
| Thanks but no thanks.I'll be keeping this little baby.I've already put about 50 rds.through it and hitting very well out to 25 yards.Have'nt tried and further yet but I will.I posted on the S&W sight and one person told me they believe my 686 was built in 1993.Thanks for everyones help and advice on this sight its been educational.Shoot straight.Tradrick |
|
If you post your model number (inside of crane 686-x) and serial number with the last couple of numbers Xed out (like ABC456xx), I'm sure that there are several members here who have the S&W reference book (myself included) who can narrow down the manufacture date for you. Proud owner of a late '94 bead blasted 686-3 4". 
|
|
search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?z=y&EAN=9780896892934&itm=1 Or Amazon...or try your local bookstore. Great read and very informative reference. Covers every S&W firearm made. One of the authors is a bigwig on the S&W forum. |