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Posted: 8/28/2017 10:29:44 PM EDT
I would like some input please. My cylinder has putting, I bought it with it. Should I just buy another cylinder or would 3-4 aught steel wool with oil work to make the pitting less?

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Link Posted: 8/28/2017 11:23:44 PM EDT
[#1]
Nothing you can do about the pitting. Just oil it and shoot it. It is not too bad compared to some I have seen.
Link Posted: 8/28/2017 11:27:52 PM EDT
[#2]
Call Accurate Plating and Weaponry and see what they say.
Link Posted: 8/28/2017 11:37:08 PM EDT
[#3]
Cylinders are not " drop in " fit

If you order one,  get an oversize hand also

Wonder if they have any left ??

I would leave it ....enjoy it as is

Avoid 110-125gr magnum loads
Link Posted: 8/29/2017 1:03:46 PM EDT
[#4]
Oil and shoot it bro. There is nothing you are going to be able to do about that; that won't cost you about as much as you already have into the revolver anyways... This is likely a great piece and now you don't have to worry about every little scratch or nick on it. I would use it in the CCW rotation for sure!
Link Posted: 8/29/2017 1:13:35 PM EDT
[#5]
Thanks! I'm just gonna leave it and shoot it.
Link Posted: 8/29/2017 1:54:13 PM EDT
[#6]
I wouldn't think twice about it.  I might however change them huge grips out.    Although they're probably comfy while shooting.
Link Posted: 8/29/2017 6:25:11 PM EDT
[#7]
My 66-1 has some pitting and some electro-pencil engraving since it was former Sheriff's Office issue.  I just cleaned it up the best that I could, swapped out the rubber Hogues that were on it for smaller factory RB Targets.

I would leave yours as is (except for the grips) and enjoy it.

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Link Posted: 8/29/2017 7:43:48 PM EDT
[#8]
The cylinder can be saved as long as that's all the pitting there is.

Option one would be to send it to S&W or any really good gun refinisher like Cogan and have them professionally polish the cylinder to remove the pitting.
They could probably get most or all of it off.

Option two is attempt it yourself.
Steel wool would be useless to remove pitting,.
DON'T use steel wool on stainless.  Tiny particles of the wool can embed into the softer stainless and will rust later, ruining the surface.

You can start out using a fine cut file to file the surface to get down to the bottom of the pits.
Then switch to some medium to very fine wet or dry type sanding cloth and a wood stick or a wide file.
Wrap strips of the abrasive around the stick or file and use that like a file to finish removing the pitting and to remove any embedded carbon steel file particles.
Use finer and finer abrasive until the area is even and the heavy scratching from the filing and coarse abrasive is off.
Then use Scotchbrite pads to even it up and restore the original factory type grained finish.
Buy Scotchbrite pads at automotive supply houses, where they're sold for u8se in painting cars.

If you need to use a file on stainless, be careful to go over the surface with abrasive cloth to remove all the file particles from the stainless.

Probably, you could send just the cylinder in to S&W and they could save it for a minimal charge.
Link Posted: 9/9/2017 1:36:53 AM EDT
[#9]
As others said, just oil it and shoot away, don't used steel wool on stainless, it can embed microscopic bits of the steel wool which will rust and accelerate the corrosion.
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