Posted: 5/9/2014 3:13:04 PM EDT
| I picked up one of the police trade-in Model 64's from AIM. Mine's a 64-3. It was dirty and showing some wear, but overall I think it's in pretty good shape. I'm not well-versed on revolvers and have a couple questions. The lock-up is a little loose, but I don't thik it's too bad. How much movement should I be getting from the cylinder? Also, how much of a gap should there be between the barrel and the cylinder? Mine sems to have almost no gap. Where would be a good place to pick up some factory wood grips? It's a square butt, K-frame I believe. Thanks |
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I The lock-up is a little loose, but I don't thik it's too bad. How much movement should I be getting from the cylinder? Also, how much of a gap should there be between the barrel and the cylinder? Mine sems to have almost no gap. Where would be a good place to pick up some factory wood grips? It's a square butt, K-frame I believe. Thanks
OK first off a 64 is a 38 spc the stainless model 10... it should be pretty tight 38s do npt loosen up like the 357 K frames. cylinder gap The gap should be between roughly .008 and .010 in full lock up CHECK EACH CYLINDER individually factory grips can be had at most gun shows but will likely be chipped, ebay is hit and miss but the 64 should be original with either service magnas or tergets, but a set of uncle mikes or pacmars in rubber would not be absurd. they can be had pretty cheap uncle mikes are pricier, |
| Thanks. My b/c gap seems to be less than .002 at full lock-up. Almost no gap at all. There is a little fore-aft movement in the cylinder. If I put some rearward pressure on the cylinder the gap opens to about .004. Is this a problem? If so how do you go about fixing it? Is the fore-aft movement of the cylinder what's known as endshake? |
| Thanks. I was concerned about it binding up once it got a little dirty since there is no gap. But since the cylinder can move rearward some, is that a non-issue? Also turns out the play is not cylinder endshake, but yoke endshake. If I push back on the front of the yoke, just below the ejector rod, the gap opens up to a nice .006. Is there a way to tighten the yoke? Seems like shims would move it forward, I need it to move back. |
| Tried messing with the screws some, no change. I guess I could peen the yoke to tighten it, but it seems like that will cause a gap where the yoke contacts the frame and put added pressure on the yoke screw. It seems I could also shim the yoke out to tighten it, but then I would have cylinder endshake that would need to be shimmed as well. Might be best to leave it be. I might try a new screw just in case mine is worn. |
| Check the Accessories portion of the Classifieds at www.smith-wessonforum.com for PC Magnas which would likely be the most "correct" stocks or for K-Targets if you want pure comfort AND good looks. |
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Might need a new screw. Take the crane out and look at the area that the screw contacts. Could be worn also. You could try switching the sideplate screws and see if that helps. Only one will interchange with the crane screw.
Hard to tell about the side play in the cylinder. You can check it with a range rod. Most gunsmiths will have one for the 38 Special. I have had my 3 inch M64 since 1982 and it has been fine. I use it for a house gun with MagSafe ammo. |
| I might try a new screw, mine does look like it is a lttle worn on the tip. Don't think it will remove all the play but if it gets any better I'll be happy. I had heard that S&W offered oversized yoke screws to fix the endplay, but they seems to be impossible to find. |
| Before all this you may want to take it and a few hundred rounds of ammo to the range shoot it and if it works ignore a little play in the action here or there. I am a smith revolver guy over the years have had at least 30 or so and as long as they worked could not begin to tell you which ones were tight or sloppy as to lockup. A mechanical defect is only a defect in need of attention if the product does not work as designed! |
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This is probably what I will end up doing. I bought this as a budget range blaster, so I don't want to put too much time and money into it. I do want to make sure it lasts though, and doesn't get much more loose. Probably won't even worry about finding the wood grips unless I can pick some up cheap. The Pachmayr's that are on there are actually in pretty good shape.
Quoted:
Before all this you may want to take it and a few hundred rounds of ammo to the range shoot it and if it works ignore a little play in the action here or there. I am a smith revolver guy over the years have had at least 30 or so and as long as they worked could not begin to tell you which ones were tight or sloppy as to lockup. A mechanical defect is only a defect in need of attention if the product does not work as designed! |