Posted: 5/13/2010 3:43:47 AM EDT
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went to the rang to shoot. All of my impacts were average about 4" high and about 3" to the left at 50'. My site picture was target setting on top of my front site. Would yall leave the sites alone or adjust them. And if I adjust them what is the best way to do the job. I have any entire machine shop to work with so hopefully we have the tools needed.
Thanks Steve |
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If it's not due to the way you're shooting, try drifting the rear sight toward the left RIGHT. They make a sight pusher tool that can run from $60-130 (maybe someone here has one you can use). Alternatively, you can lock the slide in a vice (make sure the jaws are covered, you have lead jaws, etc.) and try to drift the sight to the left with a brass punch. Don't forget to mark it with a pencil or something like that so you can tell how far you've moved it. If you can't move it with the brass punch, you can try a steel one.
If you're not comfortable with that or if it's too hard to move, a gunsmith probably wouldn't charge too much to do it for you. As for up/down, AFAIK, you might just have to adjust how you align the front with the notch in the rear when aiming. |
Oops. No, I lied. Sorry about that  You want to move the rear sight in the direction that you want the bullet to move (to the right, in your case). You can use your fingers to demonstrate the principle. Make a V with you index/middle fingers one one hand (rear sight) and stick up your index finger on the other hand (front sight) and use your "sights" to aim at something in the room. Move your V around and see how you have to move your other hand (muzzle) in relation. Move the V right and you'll have to move the muzzle (and, thus, point of inpact) to the right to get the post back inside the V.
I'm not sure how far you'd have to move it to get the right change. I'm sure there's some math you could do based on the distance from the rear sight to the front and the distance you need to move at range X, but I'm too sleepy to do it now. |
Alright, full disclosure...I said I was very sleepy 
Point of aim (eye to rear sight to front sight to bullseye) is blue. Bullet travel (barrel to muzzle to point of impact) is green. If the distance from the muzzle to the target along the blue line is exactly 50 feet, and the point of impact is 0.25 feet to the left, then the distance that the bullet travled (along the green line from muzzle to POI) is 50.00062 feet and the angle (marked in pink) is 0.286 degrees (found by taking the inverse tangent of 0.25/50 or the inverse sine of .25/50.00062, etc.). Assuming that the distance between your front sight and rear sight is 5 inches (0.417 feet), we can say that the tangent of the angle (0.286 degrees) is equal to X/.417 where X is the distance your rear sight is off to the left. That distance is equal to 0.417 * TAN(0.286) = 0.0021 feet or 0.0252 inches. Less than 1/64th of an inch. In other words, not very much. YMMV based on the actual distance to the target and between front and rear sights. Regardless, I think the right amount to move it is "just a teensy bit." 
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Quoted: Alright, full disclosure...I said I was very sleepy Point of aim (eye to rear sight to front sight to bullseye) is blue. Bullet travel (barrel to muzzle to point of impact) is green. If the distance from the muzzle to the target along the blue line is exactly 50 feet, and the point of impact is 0.25 feet to the left, then the distance that the bullet travled (along the green line from muzzle to POI) is 50.00062 feet and the angle (marked in pink) is 0.286 degrees (found by taking the inverse tangent of 0.25/50 or the inverse sine of .25/50.00062, etc.). Assuming that the distance between your front sight and rear sight is 5 inches (0.417 feet), we can say that the tangent of the angle (0.286 degrees) is equal to X/.417 where X is the distance your rear sight is off to the left. That distance is equal to 0.417 * TAN(0.286) = 0.0021 feet or 0.0252 inches. Less than 1/64th of an inch. In other words, not very much. YMMV based on the actual distance to the target and between front and rear sights. Regardless, I think the right amount to move it is "just a teensy bit." http://i43.tinypic.com/33nbyw2.jpg There's an easier formula for calculating how much to move your sights. M = (D / R) x S where: M = Movement, in inches, needed to correctly zero sights D = Impact Deviation, in inches (how far the shots are from where they should be) R = Range to target, in inches S = Sight radius, in inches Plugging the numbers from your example into this formula (.25 feet = 3 inches, 50 feet = 600 inches)... (3/600) x 5 = 0.025 |
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Quoted:
There's an easier formula for calculating how much to move your sights. M = (D / R) x S where: M = Movement, in inches, needed to correctly zero sights D = Impact Deviation, in inches (how far the shots are from where they should be) R = Range to target, in inches S = Sight radius, in inches Plugging the numbers from your example into this formula (.25 feet = 3 inches, 50 feet = 600 inches)... (3/600) x 5 = 0.025
Good to know, thanks for posting that. I usually just fool around with my sights until they're dialed in but, then again, I don't have anything as tight as a kimber to adjust. Hopefully I'll be able to remember the easy way next time. I'm glad my math-erator is still functioning after several years of being shelved though. |