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AR15.COM
6/6/2005 10:53:20 AM EDT
I have a four digit first run Custom Classic.  I bought it brand new in 1995.  

First thing out of the box: shoots low.  I filed down the front sight.  

Next thing:  After a couple hundred rounds, the plunger tube started working loose.  No problem, I put a shim in between it and the grip panel to hold it on.

Now:  After a couple thousand rounds, sometimes when firing the last shot on a magazine, the slide stop will work it's way to the right and come partially out, jamming against the bottom of the slide and jamming the pistol up good.

Will Kimber fix this?  I don't have the paperwork for the gun anymore, but I thought they had a lifetime warranty.
6/6/2005 12:19:16 PM EDT
[#1]
General Consumer Information & Questions

   (800) 880-2418

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What is Kimber's Warranty Information?


   Kimber firearms and accessories have a limited one year parts and labor warranty. Should you experience a problem within one year of purchasing a new Kimber product that cannot be resolved by speaking with the Kimber factory (Call (914) 964-0742 and ask for Warranty Service. There is not a toll free number for this purpose.) it will be necessary to return the item to the factory for evaluation. Kimber does not authorize any dealer or gunsmith to attempt repair or adjustments to Kimber products, and non-factory adjustments or modifications will void the warranty.

   

   Shipping cost to return an item for service is the responsibility of the owner. Kimber will pay return shipping cost.

   

   Items being returned for warranty service should be sent to:

   

   Kimber Mfg., Inc.

   Warranty Service

   1 Lawton Street

   Yonkers, NY 10705

   

   When sending your firearm, please include your complete name, shipping (not P.O. Box) address, daytime phone number and complete description of problem you are experiencing.

   

   DO NOT SEND A LOADED FIREARM OR LOADED MAGAZINE. DO NOT INCLUDE LIVE AMMUNITION IN THE SHIPMENT.

   

   As of this writing, you can legally send a firearm to the manufacturer for warranty service without involving an licensed dealer. You have several options. Regardless of which you select, declare the contents of your package and take out insurance for the full replacement cost. Also, keep the shipping receipt for your records and record the serial number of the firearm. Proper packaging of a firearm is the customer's responsibility.

   

   Rifles, as well as items that are not a firearm (magazines, grips, conversion kits, etc) can be shipped via UPS Ground Service.

   

   UPS - Somewhat confusing regulations require that pistols be sent via the more expensive Overnight service. Rifles can still travel via regular ground service. Cost of this overnight service can be high depending on your location. Firearms must be unloaded, and should be packaged in the original factory padded carry case inside a cardboard outer case. Before shipping a firearm via UPS we suggest that you call the UPS Service Center and question them about specifics. Be advised that UPS will not accept firearm packages from secondary locations such as mailing services. You must drop off the package at a UPS office.

   

   Federal Express - As with UPS, they require that all handguns travel via Overnight service. Generally the same rules apply as with UPS, and the costs of delivery are slightly higher. Contact your nearest office in advance of shipping a firearm for additional information.

   

   U.S. Post Office - As of this writing it is still possible to return a firearm for warranty service or modification, provided that the proper paperwork is completed and the shipment goes Priority or Priority Registered. The cost of this service is currently $6-$12 for a pistol, depending on your location. If you have questions, please contact your local post office in advance of the shipment.



ps.........any good gunsmith could restake the plunger tube for a usualy nominal fee
6/6/2005 12:37:34 PM EDT
[#2]
Looks like I need to order a new slide stop and stop by the gunsmith for a few minutes!  
6/6/2005 6:52:23 PM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
Looks like I need to order a new slide stop and stop by the gunsmith for a few minutes!  



I hope you don;t mind me asking a couple questions.  First, you said the slide stop works its way to the right?  As in it moves into the frame, not away from it, when viewed fronm the rear of the gun?  Also, you said you need a new slide stop.  Why?

Let me explain why I'm asking.  If your plunger tube worked loose, it is one of the worst things that can happen to a 1911.  It can cause the safety detent to pop out over the safety while in the up postion, rendering the pistol inoperable with a safety that cannot be depressed.

Also, if you put a shim in there, what is it made of?  If you have stock rubber grips, the plunger tube can still owrk loose or move under recoil.  You did not mention if it was loose at the front, rear, or both of the mounting studs.  If it's loose at the front, then most likely this is the cause of your slide stop malfunction.  Most likely, the slide stop detent is riding out to the left, causing the slide stop to move to the left and up, causing premature slide lock and being stuck in place.

Before you waste money on a slide stop, check your plunger tube.  See where it's loose.  Most smiths can re-stake it for a minimal charge if you don;t want to send it to Kimber, or you could just send it to them and have it taken care of.

Good luck!

ETA: sorry SGB, I didn't see I was repeating what you said in the bottom of your post.
6/6/2005 7:18:12 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Looks like I need to order a new slide stop and stop by the gunsmith for a few minutes!  



I hope you don;t mind me asking a couple questions.  First, you said the slide stop works its way to the right?  As in it moves into the frame, not away from it, when viewed fronm the rear of the gun?  Also, you said you need a new slide stop.  Why?

Let me explain why I'm asking.  If your plunger tube worked loose, it is one of the worst things that can happen to a 1911.  It can cause the safety detent to pop out over the safety while in the up postion, rendering the pistol inoperable with a safety that cannot be depressed.

Also, if you put a shim in there, what is it made of?  If you have stock rubber grips, the plunger tube can still owrk loose or move under recoil.  You did not mention if it was loose at the front, rear, or both of the mounting studs.  If it's loose at the front, then most likely this is the cause of your slide stop malfunction.  Most likely, the slide stop detent is riding out to the left, causing the slide stop to move to the left and up, causing premature slide lock and being stuck in place.

Before you waste money on a slide stop, check your plunger tube.  See where it's loose.  Most smiths can re-stake it for a minimal charge if you don;t want to send it to Kimber, or you could just send it to them and have it taken care of.

Good luck!

ETA: sorry SGB, I didn't see I was repeating what you said in the bottom of your post.




Sorry, I meant works it's way to the left.  The top of the slide stop itself is worn down such that it will work partially out underneath the bottom edge of the slide when the little cutout comes by as it moves back and jam it up hard.

I replaced the rubber grips with wood grips a long time ago, and used a plastic shim to hold the plunger tube in.  As long as the grip panel is on, it's fine.

I emailed Kimber, they say this pistol has a one year warranty, and to call the Custom Shop for a repair estimate.  For all that I think I am going to just order an Ed Brown slide stop and call it a day.


ETA:  The plunger tube came loose in the first three months I had it, should have sent it back then.  Part of that was the dealer I bought it from....I asked them what to do and they wanted me to "leave it with them for an estimate".  No thanks.


6/7/2005 10:19:45 AM EDT
[#5]
The plunger tube coming loose is a fairly common problem with most 1911's I have owned over the years. I purchased a staking tool from Brownells years ago. It is the vise grip style. It may seem a little pricey but in the long run it can save you a bundle in repair costs not to mention shipping fees and just being without your pistol.

I alway restake mine at the first hint of trouble.  Once they start working loose it is just a matter of time.  

I can't imagine why your slide stop would be worn so badly. I have never had one wear out in many thousand rounds.  

I will say that I have experienced a similiar slide stop "walking " problem.  Not to beat a dead horse here but it went away after I found and restaked the slightly loose plunger tube.  You can also dimple the slidestop to help prevent premature slide lock due to recoil.